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I Forge Iron


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About tom_ET

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    my family, self sufficiency

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  1. Frosty: 3 blows, yes? ok. what would you say should it take to heat it up again for the next 3 blows? ... would be a "back in" - turn up air - and maybe a minute or so, or should that go faster? related to bluerooster's post. I was about to ask nearly the same question. Took a small piece of rebar and just for the fun of it wanted to draw & taper it down as much as possible. was wondering how thing the thing would get and how it would react. (Then thought i would make a tiny sugar-spoon out of it. ) But it cracked open, bit difficult to see on the picture but se
  2. Marc: i guess that is the main reason for getting into. While generally i like "old techniques", it is just simply possible to do so many things with relatively few tools/machines. So much can be faster and easier done by modern metal work but you need this pool of machines and the right starting-material to make that work properly. Glenn: true. they were just "held in right position" being temporarily bolted to the tub. bracing will come. Greasing: good point. will do. The wheel, btw. has its own bearing and with the weight on the wood on the axle-pin, it will probably not move
  3. Hi there. Was out again and had half a day on the forge. When I see your great works, i don't feel like showing anything but hey. at the end, there sometimes come some nice comments that help one further. I think I am going through a lot of charcoal. I have to figure out yet the right way to manage it better.. I tend to not like keep pilng it up high enough as I have the feeling i am using too much. but I guess there is no good in using less than the right pile of coal on the forge. --> I think it makes the (less) coal burn even faster and with too much oxygen?! (figured a
  4. Started with barrel bellows. As the Computer Fan seems to not be able to bring up the necessary pressure, I figured, I can directly work on the non-electric solution. The plastic is pretty thin, Ethiopian Plastic manufacturers seem to try to find out, how much you can reduce wall thickness while still keeping some kind of form... Am a bit worried how long my inlet will hold, I might prepare some plate with a thread that the 3/4 " nipple is screwing in, so it doesnt sit in the plastic only. The outlet I first thought to use a check-valve, but the springs are too strong in those, so
  5. thanks for that grinding-effect demonstration. I started grinding off the paint from my anvil (which was a rather thick layer) and also decided to use masks for that from now on. You just reinforced that decision... proper masks got scarce here, though.. For COVID people majorly wear majorly self-made fabric-masks.
  6. I got a bit further. Before a week or so I brought my JABOD frame out on the land and filled it with mud. I decided to try it with our clay-ground only, didnt mix anything to it. I expected it to crack when drying, wanted to try that out still and just fill those cracks again with some more (or not...) Now this weekend i was able to get out again and finally have a first try. So I had the PC-Fan connected as can be seen above. I saw already in the dry trial that the air was not coming out of the tuyere as I hoped. The fan by itself seems actually pretty powerf
  7. thanks for the correction. While working on it i was actually wondering if the edges should be ground a bit. it looks more beveled than round.
  8. I dressed my first hammer today with what in the early afternoon was still a piece of Eucalyptus log. Luckily this head still had it's original hollow round wedge (with the piece of wood) in the head when I bought it, so I could re-use it. Linseed oil good for this one, too. (but just had sunflower oil at hand) Lo, my brand-new 1.5lb cross peen.
  9. Frosty: Excellent point, not only can I really try different things, I'm even hiding the fault Dharris: For sure. My wife doesn't mind "prettier things" but surely also highly prefers "working things" to "no things".
  10. yesterday I prepared most of the JABOD Forge preparation. Not sure yet, when I can make a first trial. Can't do that here but have to take it out to the land. Realized the pipe is a bit too low, have to redrill that hole. Also am not so sure if that power-supply-fan will really give enough air. But I found already in my electro-scrap another, bigger fan that will work if this one doesn't. Then, today had to repair the kitchen machine of my wife (seemingly just so much flour came in that it prevented the contacter inside to switch properly. And I used my small peen hammer (
  11. Thanks, got it. Maybe again to the limits of the Anvil. Saw them hammering here with pretty heavy sledge hammers. But then, most Anvils also looked quite battered.
  12. Hey Frosty, Thanks for the box bellow- short intro. I read about it but didn't go into detail as I figured the air (with charcoal at least) shouldn't be too big of an issue. Also I wanted to check what local blacksmiths are using. Some of them have an electrical blower a lot of them are have an assistant that makes air. They seemingly make them a lot out of wheel-tubes. But it needs double action, and stops blowing when the action stops, so my (future) manual version is going to be either a bigger bellows or the drum version might be a good alternative. I read though that a comp
  13. interesting. Here is hardly any carbon steel available. You will be mostly limited to the 2nd hand car (and other) parts market. That will be probably fine but i suppose it is nice sometimes to buy a specific srandardized size. so we have that version of packing the piece into the charcoal, salt, flour mixture and I think yours works without. It was mentioned that there is the oxidizing, the neutral and the carbonizong zone. I would have thought that you would stick the piece int he upper part of the pile and leave it there longer. thats bit really what you do, right
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