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Everything posted by Forgehermet
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I would like to thank everyone who helped me with putting my forge together, with all of your help and advice I have finally become a true blacksmith!( the first three pics are after using it for four or five hours and turning the flame off) I would like to especially thank frosty Thomas powers and buzzkill for the advice
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This was exactly the problem and it was fixed by putting the burner into the forge, though I am yet to weld it on
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I have recently follow frosty's T burner plans and have one problem,my burner will be running good with dark and light blue flames it will suddenly go out and I would have to re light it. any advice on how to fix this would be greatly appreciated, thanks in advance
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Thanks will do
- 11 replies
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- refractory
- cement
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This was what I have in it now, I guess I'll see how it holds upthe first picture is what I got to replace it, should I return it?I have not opened it yet.
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Thanks I ended up with two inches of wool and Putin refractory but I guess I put in the wrong refractorysince it was firebrick repair
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I already have it it was all I could get around herewehave already layered my forge with it, is this something I could fix?
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Ahh I am looking for rock hard and it is about 80 degrees daily here my refractory is standard "firebrick repair" Rutland refractory cement
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How long does one inch thick castable refractory take to dry
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Thank you, I found frosty's instructions on this forum and that is what I think I'll do!
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Would one inch kaowool work is is two inches a must? And I looked at your t burner designs, frosty and I think that is what I will try if you think that will work.what else would you recommend for a forge outline that would replace the tubing.
- 17 replies
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I do not yet but plan on getting one soon
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It is 120 lbs and probably made in 1943
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Ok good idea never thought about that I also plan on being able to shut gas off to burners if they are not in use
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Mainly I want the cheapest to build, and I have lousy shop skills but my dad is helping a bunch with everything. I am good at following plans. We have a lot of tools at our disposal including but not limited to drills cutoff saws angle grinders blow torches stick welder etc. and I never thought about moving it back and forth through the forge. How long should I cut it to and how many burners should I have, I hope to be able to use this forge for a long time on a variety of things throughout its life, including jewelry, and large and small knives and axe heads and possibly larger stuff like a machete
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In my previous post I learned that my oddball burners probably would not get hot enough for a forge so now I am wondering what the cheapest burner design that runs on propane is. My forge is 28"x8"x8", and I would also like to know how many burners I should have in my new forges construction.
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Thank you for the advice buzzkill
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It was given to me and I hope to use it whole and not cut it
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I'm not sure about the pressure but they use propane and I hope to be able to do general bladsmithing
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I am putting my gas forge together and I only have ribbon burners. They are three connected together each being about 17 inches long. My forge is a 8x8x28 inch square tube that I plan to insulate with refractory cement and one inch of kaowool.how thick should my cement be and how should I arrange my ribbon burners to prevent melting and get maximum heat? I am fin with using less than three burners if I should.
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Great point, from now on it is a resource pile!
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Yes I do have a junk pile and I plan to eventually use all of it. I have multiple lawn mower and bushhog blades as well as rebar and a LOT of horseshoes. I have a 3lb cross pein and two ball peins the larger one being around a pound and the other is smaller than that.
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I live on a farm, any metals(bushhog blades, tractor pins, etc) that you recommend I start collecting now for later use in bladesmithing.
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Any ideas on what to make with them?