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Identifying my anvil
Welcome John! Glad to have you! If you haven't already, please see the pinned "Read This First" topic for helpful hints on getting the most from this forum. Also this is a worldwide forum, it often helps to know what part of the world you're in. Please edit your profile and add your general location. The original poster is long gone, but thank you for identifying the anvil. It will help others who may be browsing and finding a picture matching their anvil.
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Doors of The Old Faithful Inn, YSNP
Welcome aboard KAinslie and TomE1978, glad to have both of you here! If you haven't already, please read the pinned "Read this First" topic for helpful tips on how to get the most from this site. Also this is a world wide forum and it's often good to know where a poster is from and the answer to questions sometimes depends upon it. Please edit your header so we know what part of the world you're in. KAinslie, your father sounds like a talented smith (and the name seems familiar but I can't place where I've heard it right now). Did you inherit his love for working metal? TomE1978. Thank you for piecing together the pictures of the skilled itornworks at Yellowstone. I was hesitant to click a link from a brand new poster, but I asked google which claimed it was safe so I clicked. Glad I did.
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Lakeside Anvil
Hello. I am so sorry for your loss. I don't know much about Lakeside Anvils, but it sounds like it was a Trenton anvil rebranded for Montgomery Ward.
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What's your latest blade look like? Post em and let us see.
That's a beautiful knife Sam. I like the look of that handle.
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Ribbon Burner vs Forced air converted venturi burner
Welcome aboard Milton. Glad to have you here. I don't know much about blown burners so I won't attempt to answer that question, but the description of your forge body seems good. I'd expect to get to welding temps with a pair of good burners. This is a worldwide forum and we won't remember that you're in Alabama outside this post. We recommend that you edit your header and put your location there. Also, if you haven't already, please read the pinned "Read This First" topic for tips on getting the most out of this forum. Brian
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Equipment
Hello Chris. I am sorry about your father in law and wish to express my condolences to your wife. Please do NOT post your phone number directly on an open forum like this. You are likely to get flooded with scam callers. I expect one of the moderators will be along to edit that out soon. As for getting someone knowledgeable to discuss this with... you might try the Alabama Forge Council to get someone local. Prices and such are dependent upon location and this is a worldwide forum. A local contact would probably be helpful. They have contact information here: https://alaforge.org/afc-contacts.html Your FIL may have been known to the membership there if he was at all active in the community and if so, they will likely be willing to help.
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What did you do in the shop today?
I built a JBOD and ran it with wood. I sed an old double barrel shotgun barrel I had picked up along the road for the air supply. For management is different, but it got hot enough to make a leaf which I burned the stem enough to have it break off when I was cutting it off the parent stock. Now I just need to find coal.
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Old Flatter
I used google lens to search it and it claims: "The Outline: The silhouette stamped into the metal clearly depicts an eagle perched with its wings spread out slightly to its sides. The Manufacturer: This specific eagle stamp is the signature trademark of the Fisher & Norris Eagle Anvil Works (often simply referred to as Fisher), which operated out of Trenton, New Jersey from 1843 until 1979." I wasn't able to find a good picture of that trademark, but it fits the context. I just can't prove this wasn't an AI hallucination. Most of the Fisher stampings I could find were on anvils and were much more intricate eagles.
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annealing horseing rasps
Hello Thomp82, welcome aboard! This is a worldwide forum, answers often depend upon where in the world you are located (but probably not in this case). Please edit your profile header and add your general location so the rest of us have an idea where in the world you are. Also if you haven't already see the "read this first" pinned topic for clues on getting the most from this forum. To answer your question.... yes if it's dry it will insulate if you have nothing else but it's probably not the best thing to use.
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How do you do this?
Welcome aboard Gauche_Gage. I look forward to seeing the results of your attempt and the instructions on how to repeat it. If you haven't already, please read the pinned "read this first" for helpful hints on using this site. Also, this is a world wide forum. It helps to know where in the world you are located. Please edit your profile header and add a general location. Brian
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What did you do in the shop today?
I like the twists you put in. It doesn't hurt to experiment to see if there's something you like better, but these look great.
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INS-TUFF dilute or no?
As I remember Frosty's advice... get it damp enough that the rigidizer doesn't flash dry on surface of the insulation and can allow capillary action to pull it deeper into the insulation. But I'm being a parrot here rather than having actual knowledge...
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INS-TUFF dilute or no?
This is one of the many topics where I miss Frosty. He would have given the best answer immediately. If I were doing it, I'd wet the insulation with water, then spray on your rigidizer full strength and only thin it enough so it doesn't clog your sprayer.
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Abused horn
That was a great gift. Welcome aboard!
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What did you do in the shop today?
That's a great helmet John. I went to Sugar Grove for the ivba monthly hammer in. I made a ram's head. While I was there, another member gifted me a 3' piece of 1" square wrought iron. He said it's a highly refined piece with very small grain. I'm not sure what to make with it, but don't want to waste it on something trivial. Any suggestions?