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Well it either becomes what is more valuable to you.. Properly fixed with modern arc welding using the proper surface wear rods it could be brought back to life and be like brand new.. And a lot easier to fix should a hammer accident happen in the future.. I'd avoid putting on a partial face plate as it's never a good fix.. The anvil as it is now is not worth 800.00 to me.. It would be a 2 or 300.00 tops.. To fix it (I have all the equipment) is only a day job so what is the day worth if you looked at the expense of the equipment involved.. Our local NEB group has a member who sponsors an anvil rebuild day.. This would be a perfect candidate and it's pretty inexpensive.. I love that video but have never seen the finished product? Anybody have a pic of it?

Not that hard to make.. It really depends on jaw width.. It would be easier if you had a person to swing sledge or as Thomas mentioned a power hammer.. I don't have any pictures of them taken apart.. I can tell you there is a difference between German style and American style... there are also a few other designs out there or sub sets to.. I'd suggest giving more specs as to jaw width, weight desired and such.. Do you make springs? Do you have access to a metal lathe? Are you going to make the screw and screw box?

You could just tack on some 1/8 or 1/4 by 2" to get a side above the hearth.. The forge in the trailer only had a 1" lip and the coal and coke used to end up all over the floor.. this time around I made part of the lip around the edge taller and also added a coal reserve against the far corner .. I also made removable lips at the drop in the forge bed for longer pieces can slide all the way through.. I think your flat bed design would be great if doing long or larger pieces as the fire is right there.. I think i have 22 or 24 X 30" for the main part.. the hood takes up 14 or 16" of length overall but it was designed to hold the hood up.. For the stock support use 1/2" or larger and use the old fashioned ones with the kick lever on the floor.. I mounted the vise to the forge so can use this to support longer stock..

paracord from what I understand was designed to have slip (supple) so the cords wouldn't bind.. It was also designed to be ran as a complete length with each leg of the cord taking up a percentage of the load.over a consistent distance.. Sadly for climbing the individual cords inside don't share the same stretch loads and is the reason they fail.. It is also a dynamic line vs static.. So it has stretch to it.. I used to use it for one time repelling use as it will melt easily.. YOu use a Sen ban shuriken with a bo shuriken in the middle with a wrap.. You stand on this with your Tabi and feed the line between your toes... It works great till you stop 1/2 way.. LOL.. The spectra cord is heat resistant, cut and abrasion resistant, is neutrally buoyant and strong, strong, strong.. In the video there is a time that a newer student is first shown how to receive the rope with their abdomen.. You can see the rope stretch as he applies his weight... The Spectra is like hitting a wall.. No stretch at all.. The Ninja video from last saturday will be posted as a link on my profile page... I don't leave these kinds of videos up long (about a month or so) so won't link it to any thread... It won't be processed till tonight and it will take about 1 day for youtube to process it on their end.. It's not a story board video, nor is there a story.. It's just a fun day out with my student showing him skills at his speed.. He's been around about 3 months now actually 2 of them, got me off my bum to start training with them again.. .. It's mainly with just me in them demonstrating for him as a new skill set.. The hand to hand techniques shown are out of the Go Dai or 5 element transitions from way back in the 80's.. And only partial techniques As He has never seen them.. He's also never done the rope work with belly landing, or a full cat walk.. He did very well... These videos are 360 so are best viewed on computer or VR equipment.. I'll post back when the link on the profile page is live.. go ahead and post the link in this thread, I will delete it after you are finished hosting it Admin Guy

There is a CT group and a RI group.. both groups do dinners hammer ins and such.. There is information in the neb news group and news letter.. Where in CT are you? General location is fine if you are shy..

hammermonkey, Way to go.. It's Alive.. LOL.. Shop looks great... I also love all the white paint and light colors.. It doesn't stay that way with forge work, but even dirty it's still better than a darker color.. I'll be putting up white steel roofing for the walls in the Forge shop... Eventually the concrete will end up with the epoxy white floor... Dirt in front of the forges and anvil but cement everywhere else.. I missed out on the Clay hammer build last year with NEB.. Looking forwards to the test and evaluation.. Zeroclick: and I thought I like my anvils sitting low.. Love the stand and Brooks but.. Do me a favor and measure the stand off height from the floor to the top.. I run my anvil about 30-32" and I'm 5'11"... Like the looks of your shop and your Dad..

Boy that came out nice.. Is there anything you would do different "Now" after having made it? Or is it to soon to say? I have for all my smithing journey always had to make some concessions to my forge designs.. Especially with the transport of the trailer.. The forge in the trailer was the largest I could get away with and still keep the functions I wanted.. Ideally I like a larger hearth so will be interesting once the shop goes up.. great job.. Love the shop also.. Very nice..

Thomas,, " ONLY "" ONE""???????? LOL.. Back when I was a pro I would only buy black fruit of the loom T shirts with the pocket... I'd buy 12 at a time.. I think within a month not 1 of the shirts would not have weld splatter holes in them... Now, Unlike then it's not the value of burnt skin, but I'm to cheap to buy work shirts, so slip the apron on only when forge welding. LOL..

I bought this back in the late 90's.. Back then it was rather a rare rope to find in smaller sizes.. This is a continuous strand core with braided outer.. 3mm IIRC.. Static vs Dynamic, It barely cuts with a knife so I wouldn't use it for such things as Camp rope.. It's a specialty kind of thing.. What size rope do you climb now? Have you rock climbed assisted? Ropes, belays, etc, etc.. (web search is your friend on this one)... Inner Strength Spectra® fiber’s lightweight strength and versatility make it an ideal solution for virtually every rope and cordage requirement. One of the world’s strongest and lightest fibers, pound-for-pound, it is fifteen times stronger than steel, more durable than polyester, and has a specific strength that is 40 percent greater than aramid fiber. Spectra fiber offers several benefits for rope and cordage applications: High strength-to-size ratio, allowing for lighter weight ropes that are easier to handle and maneuver Hydrophobic, so ropes will not absorb moisture or deteriorate in water Naturally buoyant, making it ideal for various marine and offshore uses No corrosion, superior chemical resistance, increased abrasion resistance and excellent flex fatigue, meaning products last longer and maintenance costs are lower Spectra fiber is used in a wide range of rope and cordage applications: Offshore Oil and Gas Deepwater lifting and mooring lines Pennant and turret lifting lines Installation and construction work ropes Industrial Marine Pierside mooring and docking lines Towing and tug lines Fishing trawl nets Lifting Slings Construction Military Helicopter rescue hoist cables Recreation/Specialty Performance yachting Climbing ropes Personal escape ropes

Lol.. gotta love it..topnews at 5..

I once forged a hollow ground blade..

Have you looked into a steel bottom pot for the area just under and in front of the tuyere?

Yes, ninja esq. Its part of escape and evasion training.." gotonpo" .. or 5 elements...:)

in addendum to the statement above.. Swinging a hammer slower can be the time needed for everything to jive..

This is from an old Journal and try to use it regularly... Took me a long time to understand, Fully understand it without defending why I hit the anvil (keeps the hammer moving, etc, etc, etc, Blah, blah, blah, ) A strike upon and anvils face with no metal below it, is a waste of time and energy and shows the lack of fore sight in the smiths work/working.. I am not paying the workman to beat my anvil.. I am paying him to forge/ produce (hammer, hot metal, anvil) metal, not to forge air into nothing... Each blow not applied to the metal but in air (ringing anvil) is not only wasting the smiths time but my own in lose of wages per a given hour of work.. If a smith strikes 1000 blows upon a work piece and 200 blows against the anvil which is he or she trying to work.. When I was younger and didn't understand the flow at the anvil I would use the hits on the anvil as a way to gain time in my mind ( to catch back up) to figure out where to strike it next, or when turning a bar, to and froe to regain where to hit it... Again, it's usually because the mind, eye, hammer, metal, anvil alignment/timing is slightly off.. Using that split second with the tap on the anvil to catch everything back up to a manageable speed for my mind.. Know where to hit it, Then hit it... This guys statement rings true.....

JHCC, That looks great... I betcha its so much betterer now that you have some time under your belt and needed a newer forge.. I found personally that the forge at had at the time was what was needed for my growth as a smith and as I migrated from a forge my skill sets and abilities got better.. Chicken/egg, egg Chicken.. Do you get the gurgle, gurgle sound?

I"m still trying to be inventive and coming up with new crazy ideas all in the quest to " FIND MY SELF"..

Ben, did you measure another rocking chair to get an idea of measurements? Sheet metal seat pan????

If you ask a senior smith for help. Do exactly as he/she say's vs... This is how I do it... LOL.. Competence comes with experience, Speed comes from Experience, A well forged item comes from working slowly and methodically until you have experience.. Radius/es are a forged items best friend.. Use them.. Keep your forge, anvil, vise and hammers in good shape... Keep the area immediately around the forge, anvil, vise etc, floor clear.. Keep flammable rags away from the anvil, forge, etc.. PPE is readily available and used.. if you get scale in your eye... "Don't rub it".. Take a clean magnet stored in a medicine bottle in alcohol and have someone use it to pull the scale or such out.. If the magnet doesn't work, go immediately to the Dr or else you can ruin your vision as the lens grows from the outside to the inside and the scale or metal will get drawn deeper into the eye and will create rust rings as well as needing surgery after just a few days..

One last note...... Never, Never, Never, ever look at a hook in use as a solid anchor point on anything.... Expect it to fail.. YES, Fail.. FAIL.. The only solid connection you have when you are in a tree is a rope tied or an anchor point using a sling that is directly tied to the tree and the rope you are on. I won't even use caribiners on my hooks.. Solid connections only or 3 separate dual wraps of 550 cord. I only use the wraps on training ropes as the hooks will get swapped out on a single rope so its' easy to swap them and I have never had more than 1 failure out of the 3 wraps.. Keep in mind that all 3 can fail.. I've had hooks fail / fall out of tree's, rock, etc, etc maybe a few thousand times... When used, they get tested properly and then after testing, you keep your weight on it.. If you ever let go of the rope, you test it again... Using a Grapnel or grappeling hook is a dangerous item to mess with.. common sense will help but it's no guaretee... It can be more dangerous than a gun... I wish you the best and sadly I can't offer anymore than all ready mentioned... I do caution against its use without proper training and following every safe guard you can..

Thanks for the honest answer..... So lets start here.. Do you forge now? Are you interested in forging? The smaller hooks are made out of 5160 and fully hardened and tempered, and proof tested for weight holding.. The black rope is a static line made from Spectra (same stuff used in fishing line).. If this was strung across from one tree to another and a person fell on it from 15ft it would cut them in half... it has 0 stretch and this 1/8" line is rated at something totally ridiculous at around 1700lbs.. a 5ft fall onto it could potentially send you to the hospital.. Paracord or 550 cord is a big no, no.. the outer sheath is weak and it's made up of strands inside that are only rated at 70lbs each.. Which means an inner cord can break and you won't even know about it.. After a few uses you can be down to only 1 or 2 strands and then it's ???? The rope you see of the bigger size is a training rope for students.. It is an arborist rope and is a synthic blend with natural cotton fibers added in for suppleness.. It's an older linesman rope and is 30+ years old... The newer rope of the same kind is now all synthetic and a little bit tougher to break in.. No, forget about balance (balanced hook) and throwing.. The rope is always the limiting factor on throws and it acts like a tail on a kite.. There are different types of throws.. under hand, side hand, and over hand.. There is also a direct throw which is more like throwing a baseball but limited except for the smallest hooks or throw weights.. yes, We use cam throw weights.. I've demonstrated the use of no hook at all with just using a rope.. It works very much like a rock climbing cam.. I would really suggest finding a tree climber to learn from.. Their methods are different than mine but it will get you headed in the right direction... Rope skills aren't really a prime skill in the Dojo any longer so can't point you there..

Still waiting on your age..

Never put flat stock in the vise the hardway and hit a side of it with a hammer.. Forgiveness is My only function as the son/daughter of God..

Do what I say, not what I do... strike while the iron is hot.. Accept generosity when offered.. It's being offered to lessen your load at that moment.. To give and receive is one in truth.. Your swinging the hammer wrong.. Lift with your legs. Not your back.. When you do lift with your legs cradle it with the creases of your hip to take the pressure off your back.. Ill fitting tongs can lead to a trip to the hospital.. If the forge weld doesn't stick first strike with the hammer.. STOP hitting it immediately.. it ain't working.. Clean, reflux and take a better heat.. If you have a cluttered shop.. Never let anybody move something to accommodate them... It will disrupt your natural rhythm and you will be tripping over everything after the fact.. If you can't accept criticism, Don't ask for opinions..

Jlblohm, i like how you roll.. Anvils at the ready.