Dave Hammer

I'd recommend just using 6x6 treated lumber (hardwood is better, but a lot more expensive and not really necessary), cut to length and bolted together with threaded rod. Make the overall size large enough to have at least three inches longer and wider (all the way around, so six inches longer and wider) than the frame base. Use 1/2 inch lag bolts (long enough to go into the base 5 inches) to anchor the hammer. You can sit the timber on top of your bricks to get the height you want and corral the 6x6's with angle iron that is anchor bolted into the bricks or just use long rods driven down into the ground (drill holes). All you need to do is keep it from vibrating around. If you don't like using lag bolts, make a template and drill the holes all the way through, then use a large blade bit (1,5 inch) on the bottom of the 6x6's to drill in far enough to allow the bolt heads and a washer to clear the bottom. Lag bolts will work though, I have used them on a similar hammer.... just be sure the 6x6's are solid. Add something to the treadle so you can use it with your heel on the floor.

T The Bradley Compact Upright is powered by the motor with a flat belt. The speed of the ram is controlled by how much the belt is tightened with the foot treadle. The lighter the touch on the treadle, the slower the ram will cycle (the belt slips). The speed of the ram determines how hard the ram hits (at higher speeds, the ram is "flung" down with more force than just it's dropping weight) A self-contained is powered by an integrated air compressor (within the frame of the hammer). Every stroke of the air compressor (constant speed, driven by a motor) produces a stroke of the ram. How far the ram comes down during that stroke is controlled by the treadle (valves turned by linkage from the treadle control the air, which will push/pull the ram up and down). Either hammer, if in tip-top shape, could crack an egg without breaking it (assuming the die spacing on the mechanical is appropriate for it). Either hammer can be used with tooling (with the mechanical generally needing more setup to adjust to tooling height). Self contained hammers can usually be used for clamping (ram held down by air pressure). Self contained hammers generally have more air-space (distance between the dies during the stroke) than mechanicals. This gives you more room for tooling and or larger projects.

That is innovative.... and impressive. I predict they will be a hit.... already are!

It may be a good hammer, but if it's not what you want, it's not a good hammer for you. If you are patient, you will find what you are looking for.

10 hours is a walk in the park.... if there are things to learn.

John's website still states Kayne & Son are selling his hammers. In fact, they are not anymore. Contact John directly for prices and availability.

There is a book.... "The Little Giant Powerhammer", written by Richard R Kern, that covers rebuilding, history and use. It will probably contain all the information you need to learn about your hammer.... If you have any questions that aren't answered with the book, call Sid. He lives in Nebraska City, NB and knows all about all the models.

Of course it can.... If you are only going to forge HOT steel/iron on it, and can avoid hitting it with your hammer and/or top tools. In general though, it would be better to use at least a medium carbon steel to ensure endurance.

I don't know about the Bradleys.

Jim's Chambersburg was sold last year...

Would O1 or A2 be suitable for damascus? If so, what steel would be used with it?

If, for some other project you want to try a brass brush for a soft finish, or just brass highlights.... Buy a barbeque grill cleaning brush. Be sure the bristles are pure brass by looking at the tips... If they are brass colored, the bristles will (should anyway) be pure brass. Brush vigorously at a low black heat. There are lots of brass coated steel brushes out there and they do not work as well (or at all). The tips of the bristles generally will easily be identified as steel (not yellow).

A soda is a soft drink.... also called "pop" sometimes.

I suggest you go try out some of the hammers you are considering....

Welcome to the IFI family. It looks like there are classes at BGCM this summer. Both beginning and intermediate. I can say, from personal experience, that the instructors are both excellent. I would recommend taking a beginners class first, and learn basic blacksmithing skills. Hammer classes usually assume you already have blacksmithing skills. BGCM will provide all the equipment you need for classes (hammer, tongs, etc... if you don't already have your own. In any case, both BGCM and BGOP have frequent meetings and open forge sessions where there would be folks that would be happy to help you get started. Check their websites for dates.

The following link has cast iron step pulleys up to 1.25 inch shaft size. You might talk with the manufacturer about how balanced they are (and the max RPM recommended). http://www.electricmotorsite.com/c/pul_step_a/A+Belt+Step+Pulleys.html

IMHO, using tubes for anvils on treadle hammers is fine if you are only going to do very light work. If you want the ability to move metal more effectively for moderate forging, a heavier solid anvil will be significantly better. Personally, I would probably cut the existing anvil away with a zip disk and replace it with a solid round or square (5 to 6 inches). If you choose to beef the existing anvil up with "inside or outside" the tube support, I suggest the added steel support go from the base all the way to the top plate (no gaps). Use a saddle over your lower die to hold tooling on the bottom.

If you have a 3 HP 3-phase motor, you can use that for your grinder by adding about $100. Buy a static converter (Anderson Converters is a source) to run it. You will get about 2 HP out of the motor with the static converter, which should be plenty for a belt grinder. I use this type of setup on a 3 x 132 belt grinder.

Thanks everyone.... :-)

If you are patient, sometimes you can find metal with the texture already there... Just find a use for what you see. I am making vessels from plate that has been laying outside somewhere for decades. I found it, as a large sheet, at a steel reclying yard. The only limitation for its use is your imagination. This plate is 5/16ths thick. I have used thinner material also. Shapes are cut with a metal band saw, then the edges sanded (belt grinder) and sometimes polished after cleaning. I use the electrolytic derusting process to remove the rust (Google for info). These vessels were made with a press... pushing with a solid round into a ring.

Some of the most startling effects can be made with the most simple tools. The bracelet pattern was made with a hammer that I used a zip disk to put cross cuts across its face. The bracelet is bronze, but the pattern could be put in any metal. Just heat the metal... and hit with the hammer. Changing the orientation of the hammer handle to the metal produces an infinite number of patterns. No two results will be the same. Overstrikes just make the pattern finer in looks.

Where are you located?

Probably $4000.... if it's an early German anvil and is in really good shape... Is that in your budget Thomas?

SASK MASK Wrote.... "I'm not serious enough to justify the costs that many here mention to buy one of these hammers. I am just curious as to what one could expect in 'getting into bed' with one of these beasts. " I can answer that from experience.... Shear JOY when it runs for the first time. Excitement and satisfaction every time thereafter. Pleasure every time you look at it.

As mentioned above, buy brand name zip discs if you use them. Cheap ones end up being more expensive anyway (don't last as long) and are more likely to come apart while in use. Personally, I like "Walter" brand abrasives, but I expect most name brands would be OK. It is critical to wear gloves and eye protection while using them also. It doesn't appear that you are familiar with "hot cuts". The photo below shows how they are generally made. Normally, the handle does NOT have wedges to tighten it to the tool (this tool was this way when I purchased it used). Since this is a "struck" tool, it is better if the handle is not rigid. Usually, the handle extends beyond the top of the tool, and is just snug. Some hot cuts are heavier than the one shown below, but this is the size and shape I prefer (less mass within the tool allows the most energy transfer to cutting). The cutting edge is about an inch and a quarter long. Also, the cutting edge should be (as Thomas noted) slightly rounded so it is easy to "walk" the chisel along the cut...