Dave Hammer

I think the main difference is... One is old, the other is new :rolleyes:

Control.

If you want to forge that size steel, I'd recommend you go try a hammer before you buy one. Working 4 x 1 the hard way is going to be a challenge.

Wrought iron, when you cut it part way through a bar, then bend it (breaking it or not), will display a fibrous appearance. Wrought iron is generally thought of as refined, or not refined. The less-refined iron has the most fiberous appearance. Highly refined wrought iron may show almost no fibers. It is said you can make low-refined wrought iron more refined by folding and forge welding it (into itself) several times, drawing the bar down each time you forge weld it. The first picture has low refined wrought iron on the left and (I think) mild steel on the right. Mild steel, when broken, has a crystaline look. On the second picture, the wrought iron on the right is more highly refined than the wrought iron on the left. Normally, if you have done a credible job of forging wrought iron, the fibers do not show in the final product, unless the product has be exposed to weather and has oxidized in a major way. The leaf, showing the fiberous nature, has been etched with acid (after forging).

You might look on eBay for ol timey pulleys. I see them there every so often... Search for "flat belt pulley". There are numerous pulleys for sale now (drive and idler). You can use a sleeve or have the center bored (if there is enough meat in the center) if the bore doesn't match your motor.

My advice??? I would use the original motor. If the hammer has been run with it for years with the six inch pulley, it's probably OK. If you want to check, calculate the BPM you get using the 6" pulley and original motor. If you want to slow it down, find another pulley.

The belting I use currently is about 1/8th of an inch thick. One belt is six inches wide, the other is four inches wide. Some of the synthetics I have tried have streched also. In some ways, I wish I had a shop with high ceilings. It would facilitate me having a jib crane, or a rail for a trolley lift. It would also make some of these tools a LOT easier to work on. I would still want a clean looking hammer and would (most likely) endeavor to move the drive pulley to the rear of the hammer so I could use a (mid-height) floor stand.... Actually, for a high-ceiling building, a single tall metal post with a platform welded on top for the motor wouldn't be that obtrusive. Just my preferences.

I have always used synthetic belts (or belting material) that I have bought used or at auctions (I have a lacing machine). Tractor Supply Co sells synthetic belting. I don't know if their belting would work in a slipping environment (I have had problems trying to use belts meant for conveyers). I would suggest you talk to a technical service desk at McMaster Carr or MSC to get a recommendation if you go with synthetic. If the belting you find is too wide, just cut it lengthways with a linoleum knife.

I've been doing more research on the ribbon burners. Actually.... Joppa Glassworks is marketing ribbon burners that will work with commercially available venturies (they sell them also). They have a new line of smaller ceramic burners that are not yet on their website. The owner claims, even with the venturi, the noise level is low. I asked if he had something to measure decibels at 3 feet.... he doesn't, but he said he could have a normal conversation that distance from the forge. The list of "parts", including the burner and venturi, I would need to try his burner would be around $300 plus shipping, not including the cost of building the forge to host the burner assembly. A litte pricey for a "chance" for a quiet forge. I asked if he thought a home-made venture would work... He didn't recommend it.

Much simplier to just hang the motor.

MonsterMetal... What is the brand, model and source for the optical pyrometer you have?

I know lots of hammers have the motors mounted on the frame, but I prefer not to. I have to believe, unless the hammer is extremely heavy (less frame vibration), the shock from forging isn't good for the motor. I also don't care for long belts (when the motor is at or near floor level) for safety reasons. Mostly, though, the Fairbanks is a great and handsome hammer and I would never bolt a frame to it for a motor. It's a thing of beauty. I wouldn't attach a wart to it.... but that's just me. I just like the looks of a power hammer that is sitting out by itself, without stuff attached to it. Either type of belt (synthetic or leather) is OK. Leather would probably cost a lot more. You should not have to use belt dressing in either case.

First of all.... That is a sweet hammer. Second, I would not recommend attaching the motor bracing (or platform) to the hammer at all. What is the ceiling situation above the motor? I would recommend making a hanger from the ceiling with a platform for the motor. Another option is to move the drive pulley to behind the hammer. This is not easy, and would require replacement of the shaft on top. It would allow you to use a floor mounted platform behind the hammer. I had a 100# Fairbanks that was set up that way. I replaced the 100# with a 150#, with the pulley setup similar to yours and hung that old timey motor in a frame from the rafters above.

Thanks again, everyone.... for the comments. Frosty... Cube twist handles are not for the delicate hand. Although, if the edges were filed or sanded a bit, they would be less stimulating.

Pictures.... We need pictures...

DiverMike.... Did John Fee buy your Yater blocks? He might need an intervention....

I generally don't say I'm a blacksmith. I usually say I'm learning to become one. Sometimes I slip, because there are areas I have become fairly proficient... Then I remember there are a thousand processes I haven't taken the time to become good at yet... and know that the real blacksmiths are good at most, if not all, of the skill areas. Although.... I have no doubt there were early blacksmiths that were specialists in focus areas (as in most businesses).

Everyone..... Thanks!

I can't even start!

Torque specs are not usually specific to any machine. They are specific to the type and size of the bolt. Look at http://www.raskcycle.com/techtip/webdoc14.html

Nice work! I like to see these types of projects....

Phil... The hot cut I used isn't all that thin. If it had become a problem (hot cut getting red, which it didn't), I would have dipped it in water to cool it every few hits.

A friend on another forum was looking for information about forging a basket twist the traditional way. Thought I'd give it a try.... and filmed it along the way... www.youtube.com/watch?v=X62dDh_9on0

Thanks everyone, for the nice comments. I hope many of you will use this twist. It can be used as an element for many projects...

I put a new video on YouTube this afternoon. www.youtube.com/watch?v=yqr9oy_qyy0