FlyingXS

What dave said. Your bronze gear will dissolve & electrolysis doesn't remove grease in my experiance. the grease doesn't conduct so acts as an insulator the the process. Great for the rust though.

Very nice. Make a decent boot scraper as well by the back door.

I cleaned all mine up with a wire cup brush on an angle grinder takes all the rust off but no risk of damage to the metal. I then just spray the whole thing with G15. If there is lots of old grease on the thread or in the box a soak in Kero will clean it up.

I did both a 1" & 1¼" hardie holes. I drill the holes ⅛ under size for both and in a coke forge heated the sucker up and drifted with square drifts to size. Continue driving the drift though the hole as many times as required as the block cools this help keep it to size and not shrink the hole. The plate I used is in the hard end on mild steel 1050 the drifts were regular mild bar. The drifts probably wouldn't survive regular use. The pritchel holes are just drilled in.

I just finished mine yesterday and it was the first time I have ever welded also… Congratulations on your success. Mine is still missing a back foot.

Use a big sledge hammer to put the taper on then squashed (jumped the end) in the hardie hole of the striking anvil. The cupping is done by fishmouthing the squashed section, then tidying up with a flatter and a ball swag which was made from a modified tow ball. The tow ball is too round so the centre was ground flater. Sorry for the lousy description but I hope you get the idea. There are some utube videos on how to make them by Alec or Daniel.

Well top & bottom fuller are done so tomorrow I will start the first hammer!!! :unsure: Here is all the tool made so far. I have never welded before in my life but dragged out the old 1950-1960s buzz box that was sitting in Dad's garage and it still worked/ Please excuse the ugly welds. I'll be starting with a 2" round bar 3" long I think.

We only have one photo in the thread….where are the photos guys? Anyone had a crack at a shop built one?

The Wilmont TAG 101 seem to be considered the ultimate in grinders.

I have been looking at knife grinders on the net, the KMG style seems to be the easiest and most versatile to build. Just forge my first two knives yesterday which was a lot of fun. So now thinking to the next steps for grinding the blade. So show us your belt grinders for your blade work.

Great work as usual Chris. Are you guys still at upper yarra? Someone siad the sign had been taken down.

You can make a side draft hood from a 44Gal drum. :)

I can see the photos now… Nice forge, can't wait to hear how you find it in use. Bet you will love it, as it looks well thought out and professional. What method did you use to attach the removable side walls?

Thanks Dale, but we are still getting ripped at $48.40 (Perth) & $42.79 (QLD) so postage on top. Still too pricey for me. As above they sell under $20 O/S

If you hadn't said the scrollwork was forged I would have assumed it had been cut out of sheet. Very impressive.

Well pferd, first said the don't sell them. So I pointed them to the product on the website, they then said sorry only sold in the USA! I then said why is it in your Aussie horse supply catalogue? Ooops our mistake, we can get them from the head office (Germany) $60 ea and you need to order by the box of 12!!! So yes still looking.

I know the beam is probably over kill but it is almost the exact rectangular dimension of the forge I am learning on. The plan was to cut in little windows in the walls like Joel has on his above in line with the fire pot. Joel how does the sliding gate work? I have a nice lump of Duraflex 4145 at 70kg for an anvil. I have also a striking anvil I forged some hardie holes in that is just waiting for me to get a welding mask and attempt to assemble as a first welding project. Vaughn, with a flat bottom forge, Am I correct in understanding you still use the bricks as a firepot, just a flexible one? With no bricks you need to pile your coke much higher to get the steel to sit in the top ⅓ of the fireball? What I am thinking is I have the base of a 44Gal drum here I might drop the brake drum in that, build the ash dump and fit the blower all up test it and if happy how those parts work. Later I can transfer them to the beam if I still feel the need.

Thanks for the feedback mate. I intend to put wheels on one end so it can be moved, but it won't be far or often.

I see they are made my pferd. I'll see if the Aussie distributor gets them. Although a chinese made one is probably be cheaper. Ebay has them cheap for you guys ebay link removed

$59.67 Postage……. I don't know why USA-International postage is always so high.

Does anyone know who makes or sells wire brushes with the flat metal bristles? All I can find locally are the ones with clusters of thin round wire which don't seem to work well moving scale and wear out quick. Looking for one like this.

Can we see some photos????

They have a ½" shank with a flat on one side. The flat lines up with the locking screw on the post drill chuck. Most people machine the morse taper on a jacobs chuck etc down to a ½" shank with a flat. This however does reduce the max size piece that can be fitted into the drill. I only have one NOS proper drill bit and never seen another here in Australia, yet I have 7 post drills. Would love to find some more.

here is some photos that may make what I'm talking about clearer.