FlyingXS

Fired up the coke forge and bent the feet up. Made a rebar filleting knife while I was at it. Welded the feet on to set the base horizontal. Plan was to fit the hinges before cutting the last few tabs that held the door on but that left me with a guess as to the location of the mouth. So I cut the door off today. New plan is to line it and fit the floor measure the height. Tack the door back in place cut the mouth and fit the hinges. Not 100% sure where the burner is supposed to point. So I'm thinking of pointing it at the centre of the floor.

They look really nice mate. I'm wondering how you got the curves so accurate and even. Could you show a photo of the forming process please?

Cheers mate I appreciate the concern. Only the pipes and the gas valve are plated, the others parts are all plain cast steel. The entire burner assembly comes from a gas fitting company that has a specific section for knife makers, blacksmithing etc. SO WHILST NOT 100% I'm reasonably confident it will be ok.

Nice. I went back and got the rest of the cable. It cost me but don't know when I'd find some again.

Got my Isowool, 1" Thick and ended up with the top heat rating and density as the one I paid for was out of stock so they gave me the better one at no extra charge. I plan to use the kiln tiles as the forge base. They are the white ones and look a bit like marble tiles. If they fail I can substitute the orange fire brick in. Making two forges one from a 9kg lpg gas bottle and the mini forge. The large RHS tube will become the front mouth, the smaller RHS is the rear mouth to allow for long items to poke out the rear. Hinges are done hinges just need to notch out the front to follow the curve. Hinge is made to match the width of the forge mouth. Next I need to make the feet and fit them so I can set the baseline foe horizontal to which the mouth can be cut parallel and the hinge pin at 90deg. Only problem is I have to wait for a non fireban day (Summer here and bush fire risk area) to light the coke forge to bend the feet.

Chris you can bring some gear over, and we can set up the studio lights and take some photos any time you want to mate. You guys are drooling now you should see it in the flesh!! Amazing work as usual.

That has a fantastic ol skool look to it. What are some of the parts made from??

Has anyone got an email address or phone number for Hugh McDonald? He designed the roll mill and sells plans for them. Hugh McDonald 150 Williams Rd Gooseberry Hill 6067 Western Australia

not that I can find Frosty

Hi Guys, I have been asked to make up a set of forged Chest hardware including, Corners, Edge brace, Hasp & Latch, and hinges. I saw a utube video talking about a hinge bender that was made by Bill Hahn and based on one that was in Donald Streeter's book Professional Smithing: Traditional Techniques for Decorative Ironwork, Whitesmithing, Hardware, Toolmaking, and Locksmithing Has anyone made one of these or got plans, drawing etc???

I'm staying away from air, it complicates it too much for me. Feel free to post pics of your hammers.

I'm in the process of reorganising my shed and laying out space for all the equipment and future equipment. This got me to thinking about a place to put and possible build of a power hammer. Any thought on which is better the Alpachian design or the tyre hammer design or is there something else better again??

I polished the face and no signs of "little bricks" on mine that I could find.

My Blacksmithing mentor came around the other day and fired my forge up for the first time and also christened the anvil. It has so much rebound that as the work cools to red the whole thing bounces of the anvil with each blow. I forged a hot cut to fit its side hardy hole. It is a great anvil, so I'm very happy with it. Any suggestions on best method for this style of anvil to attach it to the stump & how to deaden the ring a bit?????

Knives, Forks, Axes, Coat hooks, Fire pokers, Figurines, are the obvious ones but as Frosty said almost anything you can imagine.

I have heard mention of this many times. Has anyone got a link to a sample or old edition I could have a look through and see what it is about?? Cheers.

Can you post a photo of the surface of yours showing the "bricks" please.

Nah I bought it between the original post and when you posted, so you didn't miss it. The reason I say it is cast is not a certainty. I can't see where a top plate joins.I can't see any signs of forge welding or forging that I have seen on other london pattern anvils, this is the first of this kind I have seenJohn posted above that several french manufactures including Hulot cast anvilsAnother smith saw the anvil and said it was definitely a cast anvil.Although I do wonder why a cast anvil would need the square handling holes in the side, unless the were used during heat treat. So the general consensus is that it is a cast steel not cast iron anvil, but I'm happy to hear evidence for being forged.

Hi Chris, Another nice axe mate! If you run out of storage space you can leave as many as you like at myplace Dropped by twice on a wednesday and seen the boys but you haven't been at the smithy hope everything is ok.

I am curios if the square handling holes that are usually in the waist under the bick and tail of the anvil are signs of a forged anvil or do cast ones also have them. I can't see a need for them on a cast anvil unless used for handling the anvil during heat treating. What are your thoughts???

I did buy it mate! I hope it is as good as you say. Mine is 80cm tip to tip, 15cm wide on the face, and I think 27cm high. Never seen another French anvil in Australia and this one came over in a recent lot of antiques.

Guys I bought my first anvil today..Yippie!! It is a french anvil and has no pritchel hole just a side exiting hardy hole which is vey curved. I have only experianced london pattern anvils with a regular square striaght through hardy hole. If anyone has experience with side exit hardy tools. I'd love to see some and any tips on how to forge them.

I bought the anvil today and it is cast I wonder if the top is chilled? Google translate isn't helping as much as it used to for me. There used to be a translate option when opening webpages which I no longer get. So it is a bit hard to cut and paste to translate when your not sure which bits are important. I now have to clean it up, fix it to a stand and work out what the hardie tools look like for a side exiting hardie hole and make some. Still love to know more about the maker etc.

Hi Guys I am wondering if anyone is familiar with the french Hulot Harmel anvil? What I would expressly like to know is it a cast steel anvil or does it have a tool plate top and their reputation. I did find a few via google but couldn't make out enough info as I don't speak french. I believe the 40803 is a serial number and estimate this anvil is around 100Kg+ Cheers.

Heres a dirty one of the fan side. It has those raised lines. It is in some ways similar to the Buffalo Forge "Handy" model, but it doesn't have any other markings than the handy on it.