Benton Frisse

I was re-reading the section on damascus and the section on axes last night. Just can't get enough of that book...

Will do! Thanks for the advice!

Thanks for the kind words and for checking out my blog, Frosty! I try to soak up as much knowledge as possible!

Thanks! Looks like I have some ball bearing steel to acquire! I've been wanting to polish up my axes and knives I make and add celtic, gaelic, and nordic style patterns on them for some time, just didn't know where to start!

Yessir! The back end of an ax. Like a hammer poll, etc. Although most ax polls can't be hammered with unless specified, correct? For they'll damage the eye or split the eye?

That's a good lookin' blade, sir! I've been thinking about making a machete of late. I've only worked with bone and antler once and I cracked it. =/ Loving the purple heartwood!

Hey everyone! This may be a random stab in the dark, but... Have any of you smiths or collectors who've been in the knife world for a few decades ever heard of a knife smith from Indiana named James Poag? He's my first cousin and evidently was quite a renowned knife smith. He's retired now. I've seen pictures of some of his knives (and held a couple) and they're gorgeous! I'll try to scrounge up a few pics and post them. There isn't a lot on the internet about him other than one of his knives.

Thanks Frosty! I need to work on my ax nomenclature a bit. =/

Fatfudd, only could make out the three, A, 0, and 4. Unfortunately they weren't even in succession. I wish you could find out more via the inspector stamp... oh well. Yeah, someone took a cutting torch and trimmed off the bottom of the anvil legs. My guess is that it was welded to something.

Estimation of date? close to 1930s? Or more around the 1900's or 1910's?

Well I did some research and looked some places. It's a Hay Budden model 105, with an inspector stamp 2 or 22, but someone had cut part of the base and coupled with erosion, I can't make out the serial numbers other than an A (i think), 0, and 4. We've got another Hay budden with a newer top welded. Can't really use it though unless you've got ear muffs on. It'll make you go deaf. Can't see serial numbers or anything other than inspector stamp 4. This is like detective work! Our other anvil is a Vulcan number 10 - 70lb. The other is Something MFG. Not a peddinghaus, but something with a P. Peater or something. Aaaaaand my step dads is a 125lb Mankel farrier's anvil. :)

I will snag a picture for you when I get home!

After I made that post, I did some research on the IBA and have decided to join. I'm probably an hour and a half or so form the Meteor Mashers. Never met the fellas, but I may shoot 'em an email and see if I can go observe their work. Definitely not too far! I'm considering driving up to the IBA conference that Saturday or something, it's only about a 3 hour 45 min haul from Evansville. I'm just sad I can't participate in the Norse Ax class that week prior!

Hey everyone, here's our big shop anvil we use. There aren't any good markings on it, it was in a field in Illinois. We bought it and love it. There is no dip in the face, although there are some erosion pits in the face. It has a slight ring, but when you hammer it has a "thump" sound. If you catch it with your hammer though, it still has a lot of bounce in it. We haven't weighed it, but we're pretty sure it's in the 300 range (maybe 350?). My step dad seems to think its from the mid 1800's. Anybody have any idears? Not the safest stand, I know. We just had a huuuuge locust tree fall in our yard. Going to cut 'er up for a base.

I've seen one of those episodes from the Woodwright's Shop on upsetting. Really great work, the guy has an INSANE amount of hammer control. I think those episodes can really help clarify upsetting for people who are new to the trade. I just thought it was really funny that if you noticed, he kept giving the Woodwright guy a look like "would you shut up so I can explain what is going on here?" lol

The first time I forge welded anything scared the heck out of me when that first "WHAP" like pop noise came out. I almost jumped out of my boots. My step dad was a farrier for 30 years so he'd welded before, he was expecting it. Bill Merritt, I'll have to look him up. My little home town of New Harmony has a blacksmith come every year and set up a booth at Kunstfest. I've chatted with him before about welding, too. There are a lot of talented smiths around here, just no sense of community, involvement, or connection like there are in other places. A lot are ABANA members, though. I've had thoughts of starting an Ohio Valley Blacksmith's Association or something.

This was the first ax design I had ever tried my hand at, because like you, I scored a sweet deal on some RR spikes. I found this article on anvilfire.com by Bill Epps. I upset the spike end to give myself more material to work with, then split and opened up the eye. Afterwards, I started drawing out the material using a fuller, then a cross peen, and finally a rounding hammer. Hope this helps! Here's the first one I did. Not the cleanest, but still my favorite piece I've done. I like a bearded look on stuff I forge.

Gorgeous tip! I would very much like to see the step by step of how this beauty was made! ESPECIALLY that tip!

Without a doubt one of the most beautiful things I've ever seen. What material did you use for the pattern welding?

What about the thumb? That's always been something that interests me. Some people have a thumb on the top, some don't. I noticed Yuri Hofi doesn't, but lots of his students do.

Absolutely STUNNING! What tools do you use for your engraving? I'm trying to find some good engraving tools. Right now I have to settle with just an electric engraver made by Dremmel.

My step-dad and I started on an ax from a ball peen hammer. I've decided that until we get our Little Giant power hammer re-mounted, it's too much for arm power! This one was a bit heavier ball peen, I think. Even with a 6lb sledge and a fuller hardy tool it was slow moving.

Thank you two so much for your responses! (and quickly, at that!) I'm in Evansville, Indiana, which is the very South Western "toe of the boot" of the state. I've done quite a bit of research on forge welding, but I'm finding it's much like anything else in smithing; everyone does it different. Some say light taps, others say bash the heck out of it. I've done research in books such as Swedish Blacksmithing and a bunch of others. What do you find works best? A tack weld, then pound it? Or just from the start hammer the heck out of it? Thanks! Here's a folded hawk/ax I did. Had a bad forgeweld on one side. I think you can see it. Has a tool steel insert from a jackhammer bit.

At the reccomendation of another smith, I ordered this book. This book is my favorite on blacksmithing in my library. The section on axes is stellar!

Hello, I Forge Iron community! So happy to join! I have a few questions, as I'm new to forging axes (but utterly obsessed). 1. I am considering a project where I pattern weld some coil spring steel together to use as a carbon insert tip for folded hawks. As long as my welds are solid (I know, I know. Easier said than done, right?) I shouldn't have any trouble with splitting or anything, right? I'm hoping to be able to see the pattern welded layers on the tip of the hawk. I think I've seen this before? 2. I'm all about recycling and upcycling steel. Generally, are lawn mower blades high carbon? Or are they just a bit harder than hot rolled or cold rolled steel? I've been given 3 of them from a zero-turn mower (and if they're carbon, I have more on the way). 3. I'm interested in forging historical blades, mainly from the Viking era. I'd like to forge mainly axes, but long blades and seax would be fun, too. Other than just giving it a whirl (in which I've gave a few stabs at), are there any literature pieces that you as a community like to refer people to? I have some in my library now, but always looking to expand :) 4. I've been hammering and smithing for about 2 years now, but only started forging and finishing axes in the last 6-7 months or so. I'm looking for some good chisels to do some metal carving/engraving into ax heads. Do you, as a community, have any that you find to be tried and true? Best recommendations? Thanks so much! Happy hammering! -Benton