Anachronist58

DSW: Well spoken. I don't see anything you've said that I don't agree with: A pretty square hit. The trouble with drills is that not everyone can master the offhand technique. I am no good at upholstery. Some people can be taught how to grind drills for others it's not so easy. Everyone should learn to recondition their drills offhand, and it sure helps to be coached. Learning hand grinding unlocks some of the 'mystery' of how a twist drill works, and it also helps when it's time to use a Drill Doctor, et cetera. I used to run a Stirling, and it would do up to 2" Diameter twist drills. I was in the habit of bringing the tools to rough then near finish by hand, leaving only about .010" for the machine. I had to assume every drill I reconned would be used for close tolerance work. With the various machines, I hand roughed virtually all the drills, then machine finished. I have no doubt that as roughed most of them would have cut just fine. R. Taylor (er ah, drill grinding is a heat-treating topic, yes? :huh: )

Caotropheus, Great example with those two fellows making scissors from just a fine block and a small separate bick. No Limits! Mr. Olivo: "personally I wouldn't bother welding a horn to a dys anvil." Completely Agree. I had not intended to weld anything to my own 3 x 9 x 15, and now certainly, I never will. Just being able to flip the thing to render three different elevations/surfaces is a real pleasure. Once again, I'm just a sponge, soaking in the IFI Slack-Tub of Wisdom. Robert Taylor

Rockcrusher - Excellent execution. Art Gallery Quality Appearance - Oh what the Heck - I am filled with Envy! Robert Taylor

More than one can bear. Poor Trusty Knocked-Over Machines..... How long before it is scrubbed from the face of the Earth, as if it never existed?

Mr. Toby, an Act of Good Faith on your part might go a long way. Why not reply in this thread to the questions our esteemed colleagues have already asked you: We might assume that you are in England, but honor Mr. Powers request and list your general location in your profile. Mr. Ted T. Thought it might be helpful if you told us your if you are over 16 years of age. Well? As Mr. Einhorn said: "To start blacksmithing all you need is a heat source, a hammer, a block of steel, and pliers or tongs". Tell us now what tools you have right now? Have you Struck Hot Iron?? I don't know Mr. Iron Dwarf Personally, but I'll bet that if you do what he asks, you can't go wrong. Everyone on this thread wants you to learn as quickly and safely as possible. There are no shortcuts. So Mr. Toby, Please take the time to be fair and respectful and respond to the very reasonable questions and recommendations above, You have picked the Right Forum, Stick with it. Robert Taylor

Very Nice.

Dear Ancient, Thanks for your careful and detailed response. And thank you for carefully considering the contributions of the other Members. Please answer Mr. Iron Dwarfs' question about what you are making. It's a really good question. If you are opening a paperclip factory, you are probably good to go with that 30# rail. Whatever your work goes between and and gets the work done, that stationary object is an Anvil! Thanks so much for replacing the bucket. I will sleep better tonight. I am sure others can and have contributed other critical safety guidelines concerning glowing (including Blackbody) metals and flammable/explosive materials. Anyone care to chime in on the truck axle w/hub disc an wheel stud holes as a Decent Post Anvil? Seems to me there is plenty of fabulous HORN right out of the "box". Ancient, before you get bogged down with Options, read Mr. Powers advice and go outside and FORGE! R. Taylor

Once again, lots of well-thought replies. And my 2 cents: Improper Speed and Feed can work-harden the hole you are drilling. Sounds like you didn't have that problem: "The drill bits are designed for metal, and were new. I have drilled holes in this same metal without any problems, that's why I figured that I hardened it. I didn't use any cutting oil, I'll try that." Lubrication of the cut is indeed a wonderful idea. even spit is better than nothing. Robert Taylor

Mr Olivo, Great example.

Hello Ancientsword, I am a bit confused as to why you are starting a new thread on the same subject 30 minutes later. Seems like you were getting some pretty good advice from some very knowledgeable people. Not knowing your experience or metalworking background can make it a challenge to give good focused advice. What tools do you have? #1) I have to ask, though, what do you find inadequate about a piece of steel that is "19"x9"x3" and 125 lbs"? A lot of people would give quite a bit for such a mass of metal. Has it no smooth surfaces? Like several suggested, why not use as is? What is your idea of "something decent"? I will bet you many of these guys/gals on this forum started out - and got the job done - on whatever they could get a hold of: a rock, for Pete's Sake, a wood splitting wedge stuck in a stump, etc. C-clamp or temp-weld just about anything to that big hunk - there's your first horn. #2) Good to see you are being bold and experimenting with your "4140". Hard to tell what condition you have when you get it from a scrap yard. I have 4140 scrap lying around here that is substantially more "reboundy" and tougher than my Swedish Soderfors anvil! And get rid of that plastic quenching bucket! #3) You say you have a "4ft section of light rail". Sounds like there's nothing to hold you back! I'll bet there are lots of people getting the job done - drive it into ground and get to forging. Question is, what is "light rail"? I have 20#, 60#, 90#, and 111# (that's pounds per linear yard). See page 44 of the Thread: "Show me your anvil". See also the Thread: "Anvil Shaped Objects". Only something with a classic anvil shape, but is Useless, is an "ASO". Want a nice stake anvil? go to the junk yard and pull a couple of truck axles - viola. As always, I count on the good people of this forum to correct me if I give poor advice. You should count yourself fortunate, Ancient, to have fallen in with this crowd, I amongst the least of them. Search the Forum, as many of your questions have been answered in posts past. Robert Taylor

Nothing to add but thanks macbruce and all other contributors - I had watched that first film at least six times before, but this thread has made it so much more enriching - what with all of the new material and personal gems. I was up on the side of a mountain Monday whining about my 10 pounder....... wahh wahh wahh

I'll go for that, Daniel.85. When I come into the house at night, and my face is black, and I smell like smoke (one of those dang charcoal users again!!), I am not a Blacksmith. I am however, a Journeyman metal manipulator, very narrowly specialized, and never satisfied with the paltry knowledge I have gained in 55 years of living. My daughter's Huge dog calls me master, I may have to be content with that. I would love to be certified beyond the basic-basic 'he didn't poke his eye out' certificate I have earned so far, as these certifications have value in establishing a standard of competence more tangible than having 'stayed at Holiday Inn'. Alas, not soon enough. Some of us are just too far out in the 'Wilderness', so to speak, to get that paper. However, The Art and Science of Blacksmithing is a wild passion and obsession that runs through my veins - and if my loved ones find me in the forge, slumped over the anvil with a smile on my dirty face: I won't be able to correct them when they say, "He was a Blacksmith!" I love this Community, Robert L. Taylor

Concur with all above, Very sorry.

Mesmerizing. And yes, pretty sure that last one runs on hot air. Amazing, thanks Glenn.

Thanks, Hillbilly, Always willing to take refinement. My welding experience is limited and I have much yet to Learn! Looking it up Now. Robert

DSW: Just want you to know that I read your August 12, 2013 reply to post "MIG vs.Firewelding" : "One thing you didn't mention, that I'd strongly suggest, is material prep. While the piece you welded on wasn't bad, you always get better results if you clean and prep your material 1st. A wire wheel usually won't cut it either. You need to sand or grind to shiny steel. Another pet peeve of mine is guys who simply weld over everything and never prep...." I want to acknowledge in Full Public View I agree with the above statement. Prep is King and should always be done whenever Possible! Robert

Mike Romo - As usual lots of people on this site with positive contributions! I'm quoting Hillbillysmith: "I have PERSONALLY welded 1" thick steel together using a 110V FCAW (flux core) machine; Lincoln Electric Weld Pak 100 to be exact" and Crazy Ivan: "I run a 110 lincoln machine with flux cored wire fairly often and even though it says it can weld up to 3/8" steel (depending on the wire size used) that does not mean one pass on 3/8" plate is a done deal." Because I have done done essentially the same things with the Weld Pak 100, far exceeding the capacities listed on the machine. As often stated above, it is about edge prep, preheat and/or flipping/ stitching your welds to bias warpage, and Duty Cycle. Lots of 110V wire feeders out there, some having more GUTS than Others. Oh, and one more thing: For FCAW, be sure your Polarity is set to DCEN, in English, that the Wire coming out of your Gun is Negative, and your Ground Clamp is Positive. This comes straight out of the Weld Pak 100 Manual which will jump right out at you when you "Google" it. Miller also has their operators manuals easily accessible online, PRINTABLE and VERY WELL written (IMHO). Earlier this year I went up to my Dad's house, and set about building a mule (Named Robert) powered asphalt tamper from an old truck axle and 1/4 x 6 x 6 HRS Plate. Got out his Lincoln SP-125 (110V) with .035" InnerShield (FCAW), did a light Prep, and Dropped the Hammer. InnerShield is designed to viciously stab Rust, Oils, and Crud out of the weld zone. Danger! Welding Combustion Products can Cause Serious Injury or Death! Think of my shock, surprise and dismay at the apparent realization that I no longer knew how to weld!!?? It's true it had been 8 years more or less, since I had picked up any sort of Stinger, But How could this be! Like riding a bicycle, Who Forgets How to Weld?? Squeeze Trigger, Pop! Stick! Snip off the wasted wire! Was I going Blind?? Pop! Stick! Snip! I am Destroyed. I was Flushed and Sweating Profusely in the 40 Deg F February air, as my 81 year old Father stood over me. I could here him thinking about his IDIOT 55 year old Son, "always bragging and full of (insert favorite)" Just then, and Angel touched my shoulder, and whispered, "polarity". That's my story. the polarity was set up for Gas. I switched the leads and instantly, I was once again a + mediocre welder. Mike, may your Anvil Stand bring you Joy, R. Taylor

One might think that I have already blabbed on this enough, but after further study, I want to tighten up a couple of Items. The most pernicious hazards of Chlorinated Solvents appear to produced by exposure to Ultraviolet light from Arc Welding. Phosgene Gas gives off "the pleasant odor of newly mowed hay". Let's just take it for granted that Chlorine and Fire is a Red Flag. Hot Filing and Oil: I recall a batch of improperly degreased aircraft hydraulic pistons went into the oven 300~350 Deg F "must bake after grind" cycle. Components of the oil diffused into the metal (stained it) Turned out to be an unacceptable condition. Don't remember whether we lost or saved that batch, but the stain was locked into the metal. What think you, Heat Treaters? Might this make Oily Hot-Filing a No-No?

Hello, All. WOW. The longer these threads run, the more challenging it is to put in my two cents (and actually be worth two cents). I feel unqualified to challenge the diverse and venerable viewpoints of my fellow contributors, but here's my copper: Peoples' body chemistries are widely variable. Fingerprint "oils" can be quite corrosive. Some of us may handle unprotected (steel) and suffer little consequence. Others can burn the metal almost instantly by touching it. I have seen this in both aerospace components I have finished, and in cutting tools I have processed. In fact, for certain end users I would have to thoroughly protect the product to prevent oxidation disasters (scrap). Oxidation can be a runaway train. Often, a fingerprint burn will tunnel toward the core of the workpiece (pitting) faster than it spreads across the surface. I am not a Metallurgist, but pitting is a fire that keeps burning until it is put out. So, it is not dirt, but damage, a matter of metal removal and not cleaning. Since gun bluing is a highly delicate oxidizing reaction, rust (or grime) can't be good. Rockstar.esq said, "I once had a professor tell me that oils had no place in milling machines because they reduced friction which in his mind equated to reducing cutting ability. I pointed out that cutting oil is often used to reduce cutter wear, and part distortion due to heat. My comments were not welcome." Colleen says, "sometimes people just say stuff". I am one of those people from time to time, and the more I yak on this forum, the greater I risk standing to be corrected. But Rockstar, your "professor" was just full of "himself'. The Utopian Ideal of Metal Removal is the Absence of Friction, and the efficient transfer of heat into the waste (chip) through upset deformation of same (chip). When you see that chip "curl" out of the way, your are making good time. Microscopic Inspection of this waste reveals a surprise - Milling, Drilling, Reaming, Grinding, and Filing at their optimum rates all produce chips very similar in appearance. I used to dread sending certain Reworked tools like twist drills to the "Manual" Cell. Some were of the philosophy that "Oil (cutting fluids) and machining do not mix". That's why one of my reconditioning tools was an abrasive cut-off saw! :wacko: Don't get me started on titanium. Filing: I would endorse protecting and enhancing the performance of files with oil except for one reason: Unanticipated chemical reactions to the heat or fire of the Forge have been DEADLY. Some of you have lost Friends or Family, and we, as a community, have suffered along with you in this. Be it from letting our guard down about Zinc, (that's me) or letting Chlorinated Solvents (Brake Cleaner) sneak their way into the forge. Many on this Excellent Forum can add much I am sure, It might be useful to Pin a link to Safety to the top of our Index, as well. So lube your files when you know it's safe to do so, and I won't forge while drunk. I am constantly having to clean my mind of Superstitions I have learned, but some of them are useful (don't eat that) until proven otherwise. Every one knows not to start the forge with a cup of Gasoline. Don't ask me how I know that. Humbled to dwell amongst you, Robert

Lots of stuff to consider. The main consideration, I guess, would be the chronic shortage of coal/coke. I would not expect the Rapa Nui to use charcoal. But if you live out in the middle of the woods, you probably won't regret the experience of using and having charcoal on hand, even if you find that you prefer coal/coke (if you can get it! :() Naturally, the forge/hearth you use will affect the performance of the different fuels. I know next to nothing about this. My current forge is experimental. It has run exclusively on charcoal up to now, I actually use it to make the charcoal I forge with. Others on this forum have pointed out that a deeper "coal" bed and slightly less air flow will give results comparable to "coke" I get that bed by recycling my ash to (Dry tamp press) form a deep "V" trough. (Seems to be a cheap and workable Refractory This trough serves two functions: It focuses the Heat zone and economizes the fuel consumption (My Observation). As shown in the next images, it gets hot enough to fire a marginal bloom from yard ore. In a shallow hearth, stack firebricks to get depth, if required. If I had nothing but wood and mud, and had to have charcoal right away, I'd rifle stack some wood, cover it with mud, and fire it off. I would love to build a retort, which is a superior process. Plenty of "how to's" to choose from. W...pedia doesn't list my or your area as a black locust habitat, but it grows here. It's claimed to have the same heat value as anthracite. Have yet to test it myself. Good Luck, Robert

Thanks, Quint and John McPherson, no loss of hardness observed. I used a File Scratch test, Milled Face, Step, Horn, and Legacy Face, all pretty much the same scratch. Then I took some 5/32" 11018 welding electrode and cold forged the "snot" out of it. Not a single mark on the milled face. Then used a 1/4" piece of 15-5 PH heat treated, and that put a slight dent in it. A sharp blow from my ball peen hammer made a similar slight dent in the face. An item of Interest: I tested a "Made in China" Potential ASO and got Very similar results. It makes me wonder: Was this Soderfors anvil in a school shop, where newbies learning hammer control missed the stock over and over?? I agree that we don't want to cut too deep, but this thing looked like the moon when I got it! Now Mr. McPherson, some of those RR Rail anvils are very nice! :rolleyes: But look at this stuff - Bought it at A & K Railroad Materials in Stockton. Guess I won't be making anvils from that piece of 60# rail in front!! There is a point to all of this. That orange anvil cost $31 (plus shipping). No way I could ever make a horn that nice for 40 bucks worth of time! Anvils, each and every one, Robert

Hello, All. For the people new to this site, like me, you have found a great place to hang out and be enriched. A few years ago, I dropped in on the Smiths at Old Town. Very welcoming, they directed me to the Antique Gas and Steam Engine Museum (AGSEM) In Vista (as FireCat said, www.agsem.com). "Take the Basic Blacksmithing Class and bring back a Certificate of Completion, and you can come back here and swing a hammer with us for the Tourists! It's FUN!", he said. I went, Payed the fee, took the Basic Course with Ken Rose one Saturday a month for three classes. Were it not for a Turn in Fortune, I would have gone even further. It was just just an outstanding experience. It is a coal fired shop, including a steam powered overhead belt driven Demonstration Machine Shop, and a working Wheelwright Shop. Never made it back to the Hammer Swingers in Old Town (Sigh, Some Day!!!). For now, No matter which of the above member suggestions you decide on, be sure to check out AGSEM. That Bandy Shop sure sounds interesting! Capt Squid, would that actually be: www.bandyblacksmith.org ? Robert

Ivan, read your topic: "An Intense Commission" posted November 24. I joined this Forum yesterday, and this is only my second posting. Now I know all I will ever need to know about this venue, and about all of the people who have responded to you. I read every response, and will read each again, I am sure. What an unbelievable compassionate and intelligent community of human beings! I don't know what to add to the wisdom shared by all the posters - But what macbruce said about that place within you ten stories up, and what Raschelle said about Perspective and a Heavy Bag - do not forget their words - Put that bag back up NOW!!. Throw your blows CALMLY. I was homeless off an on from 1979 -1987, when my wife found me living in someones back yard, welding, etc, and paid $20 a day. My long awful story is like that of many others who have come back from the edge (or were pulled back from over it). To quote lupiphile quoting Churchill, "success is the ability to go from failure to failure, with no loss of enthusiasm", who has a clue what these words are doing in my life? My forge went cold ten years ago, when I stopped living. Finally, just a few weeks ago, I refired it and struck steel. Then I gave a Smithing Lesson. Then I took iron sand from the yard and fired my first pig. Then I joined iforgeiron and found this Awesome Community, So Thank You, Ivan, for posting about your "problems with patience, temper, frustration and perfectionism", and thanks to all who responded. Keep a relaxed grip on your hammer, unclench that jaw, and know that transforming passion into steel - not all who come are able - and yet, you are doing it now. Robert.

Here is my 88# Swedish Sodofors Paragon Cast Tool Steel Anvil hanging out with Friends. Don't know how old it is. My Apology to anyone hurt that I milled .025" off the Face. It was beat up worse than MY face.