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santisandreas

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  1. santisandreas
    i am wearing the bolle 1.7 shade and i am not confident that they provide the protection needed because after two years of wearing them, i don't feel comfortable looking at the fire with them. when i stare at the fire my eyes start to move a bit faster actually but the thing with me is that i have 0.5 astigmatism and because i cannot wear my astigmatism glasses while forging that might be the reason why my eyes get a bit shaky which later causes a dizzy kind of effect. does anyone have any advice on this? is there some way that i can put the prescription of 0.5 astigmatism on the safety googles i wear at work? i prefer the shade 1.7 because i can see very clearly with the shade 3 its a bit tough to wear them because i don't see very well due to the darkness they have.. i feel more comfortable with the lighter shade but i am worried that they might not offer the protection needed.
  2. santisandreas
    thanks a lot for your advice! i did make two attempts to experiment firstly and then did the real thing which came out successful. i made two rolls and sliced the one with an angle grinder and then the other one which goes into the middle was cut to length before bending and a bit wider than needed, in order to be on the safe side. it was bent round and then grinned to reduce the width as required to achieve a precise fit. the pin was inserted and welded at the bottom only. then the whole thing was heated into the forge and moved while hot to be sure that it slides smoothly and to remove minor imperfections.
  3. santisandreas
    Hello everyone, I have an issue with a big door hinge that haven't done before before and i was wondering if someone has the know-how to solve this small issue for me. a couple of days ago i was invited to give an offer for a really big house being renovated in Larnaka, right in the center of town. i am very excited for this project and i hope i can get the job, but the only problem is that there is a hinge which is difficult to make, i was asked to make one of each piece needed at this job, in order to prove to the architect that i will be able to make everything he needs. he has his doughts because i am new in this line of work and a bit young. As seen in the image below this is double hinge where i am not sure how i can make the connection in the middle. can anyone explain how it is made? i just thought that i can make the same circle done for the pin at the first end, where the hinge is joined at the wall and then cut the slice needed in the middle so the secondary hinge can pass through there and insert the pin. is this the proper way to about it? or does anyone have any other ideas? thanks in advance! hope this helps and someone else in the future!
  4. santisandreas
    thanks billy i will. now i got a commission for some door equipment wich are quite tough to make.. but its going well. i will post the images of that when the job is finished...
  5. santisandreas
    After i think, just for the experience.. anw that wasn't the reason why i went there anyway, it was all a very pleasant experience. here is the whole installation though which i didn't upload in the morning, with the red lights. Alan, yes the materials have a very good bond. everyone was surprised on the combination of the two. hard metal and soft wax... thanks for your feedback.
  6. santisandreas
    hello everyone, this is my final year at my studies in BA Fine Arts working with metal started from my desire to do a model of an abandoned factory that i used to paint. this has now advanced into blacksmithing and it is a very enjoyable experience with surprises on every corner. This year was my best work so far, i added wax to my materials which blends very well with metal. my inspiration for this project originated from visiting the Red Light District in Amsterdam which provided me with a very unpleasant feeling which has led to these sculptures. I don't want to say much as in order to leave you make your own thoughts about what you see. thanks for all the help from this forum and let me know of what you think. photos By Alexandros Hadjicostas. Andreas Santis
  7. santisandreas
    hello again the forged is finished, almost actually. i have decreased the chamber bu cutting a small portion from the front and now it reaches a goo enough heat. but not welding heat i think. i guess its because it is losing some heat from the front because the door is not closing. the insulation inside is just kaowool and i haven't yet coated it with ITC 100. is it gonna make a difference if i coat it with this.? take a look and tell me what you think. a lot of mistakes have happened but i have learned a lot fro the process and i hope the next one will be even better. any advice will be helpful. thanks again.
  8. santisandreas
    hey everyone. i am resuming the post since i am well on to build a new forge with some more problems occurring along the way. again the forge is a bit too big because i calculated the measurements for the cubic inches wrong. but it is going to be repaired. it has more depth than it should have so i will cut it a bit shorter. one other problem is that i wasn't able to find an insulating refractory and tried to cover the kaowool with a fireplace refractory but it doesn't work. the heat of the burner gets lost in it so i have decided to order it online. can you please tell me if this is the product i nedd from the link bellow? thanks in advance. http://shop.vitcas.com/forges--heat-treatment-furnaces-44-c.asp
  9. santisandreas

    bender2

    santisandreas commented on KRS's gallery image in Tools

    bender2
    what is this? i am guessing it has to do with scrolls? how does it work?
  10. santisandreas
    ok thanks frosty. this is helpful. i will find it.
  11. santisandreas
    thanks a lot. i will look for it and hopefully i will find it. thanks. update: i think i found it just now. its name is turtle wax which comes in spray form and the product says that it contains carnauba wax. do you think it is suitable for a finish or does it have to be pure carnauba wax to be applied on metal? this is for use on cars. http://caraccessories.com.cy/en/motores/467-turtle-wax-express-shine-.html
  12. santisandreas
    i am looking for a good finish for my sculptures and some exterior hinges i am making and have some questions as well on the matter. i have looked up trewax just now but its too far away to order it from USA it is not cost effective. is this product available in Europe or is there something else i can use close to this? i have firstly used beeswax but it was too sticky and then i mixed linseed oil with turpentine and beeswax to see if its better and was less sticky but i believe that i didn't apply it properly. should one let it dry and then apply it with a cloth or something the pieces while they are hot or should i apply it while it is still in wet form as soon as it is mixed? any help would be appreciated thanks.
  13. santisandreas
    this is great thanks... it will be a great help for my introduction to heat treating.
  14. santisandreas
    thanks a lot Frosty and Thomas. i will update the post with the construction of the forge.
  15. santisandreas
    yeah you are right i didn't know the difference between the two. i wasn't sure what to use just like before with the previous forge. can you explain a bit? i am planning to use kaowool in particular the one at the link at the end of the post which is the only one I have foundd in my country, and then I want some insulating refractory to coat the blanket in order to make it more durable. BUt I am not sure which one to get as you can seee, and could use any suggestions. Before I was looking for refractory that will resist high temperatures to aply it on top of th ekoawool, then I planned on placingg another layer of ITS-100 from hybrid burners to ad further UV insulation http://www.castreekilns.co.uk/ceramic-fibre-blanket-96kgm-2266-p.asp There is no need for UV insulation, its IR you need. Also I corected the blue problem
  16. santisandreas
    hey everyone i have found the refractory to be used for the insulation of the forge and it will be from a company Kerneos Inc. the product is Secar 71 or 80. take a look at their products if anyone is interested in the future to buy from them. i will order it from turkey which is closest to Cyprus to reduce shipping costs. http://www.kerneosinc.com/secar71.php
  17. santisandreas
    thanks Frosty that is very useful. i will keep it in mind. but i think i need to experiment a bit with the construction of the forge and the burners to get exactly what you are saying. experience wise i mean. thanks again.
  18. santisandreas
    yes i did Thomas. my fire pot will be 14" depth and 10" wide which is a 5" radius of the whole circle if you do the math this adds up to 1020 cu/in divided in half is 510. Rex suggested that the 1" burner is more powerful than the 3/4" T Rex and will bring a chamber of about 600 cubic inches to welding heat but he said that this is not 100 certain since he is not in the business of making forges. so i thought to make it 500 cu/in to be certain. the forge will not be from a propane bottle because it is illegal in my country. so it will be similar to the forge of Roger Melton with 4" thick insulation. thanks again for all your help
  19. santisandreas
    ok thanks a lot. i will be posting images with the construction of the forge later on. thanks for all the help.
  20. santisandreas
    ok thanks Wayne, just to clear everything out before i proceed. i already have the 1" burner from Rex and since you said on your website that the 3/4" burner is suitable for 350 cu/in the 1" burner will be sufficient for the 20# bottle which is 583 cu/in? or do you think its not going to reach welding heat with just this burner? if not, because the 1" burner is the one i want to use on this forge how much cubic inches should i look for? 400 or something? thanks in advance and sorry for the trouble, i just want to be sure before i proceed.
  21. santisandreas
    hehehe no Frosty i haven't tried it, didn't come across it actually. thanks anw i am now reading about your forge Wayne and i think i will go for it. what bottle did you use in the end? a 40# or a 30#? because in hybrid burners it says 40#. i will use a 1" burner from Rex and the smaller one i made with the instructions from Dave. and as frosty said earlier 700 cu/in will be good. should i use the 40# or the 30#? thanks anyway for all your help.
  22. santisandreas
    thanks. sorry for not doing my homework Frosty. i didn't look into it thoroughly before trying to do this forge. i have a bit of a problem with the terminology concerning this matters because english is not my first language, but its getting better with each day. thanks anyway for everything. you have all been really helpful.
  23. santisandreas
    ok thanks a lot. this has been helpful. i will make another forge using plans i found. Rex has suggested a site where i am gonna buy the kaowool i just don't know which is the one most suitable for a Gas forge because this site has a lot of variety. its a very good site though, it has everything. can you take a look and tell me which one is best suited for a forge?i think the extra high temperature rigid ceramic insulation would be best, i am not sure though. thanks in advance. http://www.mcmaster.com/#standard-ceramic-insulation/=spr5f7
  24. santisandreas
    ok thanks for that. the refractory is the one which they use for fireplaces which has some insulation. i would have used kaowool if we had it in my country, Cyprus, but i wasn't able to find anywhere to buy it. i thought of buying it online but it costs 30 euros to buy it and 100 for shipping because of its weight. so i will have to stick with fire bricks and this refractory with the construction of another forge. does anyone have any links for plans here on IFI? thanks in advance
  25. santisandreas
    yeap it is a boiler. but i built it with fire cement to have a smaller chamber and it will include two burners for certain. the burners will be removable to be placed into a smaller forge which i will build later on.but since i had the boiler i thought it would be a good idea to make it into a forge. thanks for your opinion. if this consumes too much gas because of the large chamber i will definetly build a smaller one..
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