tantrum86

the forge i made was very simply made bye taking steel straping and making it into a box with a 2inch hole cut in the top and then i lined with fire that i purchased from a custom fireplace store in town the most difficult part in my opinion was the burner.I believe the total cost might have been 15$ in fittings and a hose/regulator setup.this is a link to a similar set up to mine its very informative and cheap remember you can modify the body of the forge to your requirments a little depending on available materials http://www.knifenetwork.com/workshop/tut_burner_warner.shtml

Hey everyone im doing a project right now that involves a bit of scrolling and welding im looking for some ideas on some type of collar to help conceal some of the welds at the connecting points of the scrolls any ideas pics or blueprint suggestions would be great.

thanks rich i will definately be working on that its nice to have a place like this were mistakes i didnt even realize i was making can be pointed out to me and the last four years have tought me some habbits that may need correcting so im gonna post more pics of me smithing i might be doing much more that could be corrected to make my life a little easier at the forge

here is some photos of me working on some orders got snowed out from work so it was a perfect oppertunity to hammer out these spike knives.As much as i would like to be making something a little more interesting people really like these as christmas presents and ive actually got quite a few orders.o and my gas forge i recently finished is also show cased a bit.

looks great seems to be quite an undertaking to get good clean lines on such a small blade o and what caliber round is that just out of curiosity

very nice clean lines

hey everyone im currently working on a 5160 blade and was wondering how well a hamen line would show up in this type of steel and if anyone had any tips for achieving such a thing.thanks

i would have to agree with anderson the only thing i would add is to remember to keep a very low and even heat and that the stuff ive used welds in the orange color range and tends to burn in the yellow.if you cant find any cable i have a yard full of the stuff and no real shortage of supply its not allways new but i know where it came from and what its made of.

i would suggest a brine quench for something with such low carbon and a very light temper if any at all

i think agrussel is selling a line of giraffe bone knives they look pretty good i dont think much of the blade but the scales are nice

very nice any leads on where i could find some iron wood?

not bad at all the etch came out nice what did you use?

thanks everyone frosty you have good point i climb wind turbines so i can make knives a big help so far has been the net and e-bay style web sites but in my area i get people coming into the shop with 40.00 bucks and want a pattern welded blade like the one on my hip and when i tell them thats not gonna cut it for 20+ hours of work they ask how much then and usaully about keel over when i give them an estimate. its a very limited market that we sell to

how does everyone here go about pricing knives if you yall were to sell them do you guys do it bye the hours of work invested in the knife material cost with an x percent mark up let me know it would really help me to standardize my pricing scale

amazing knife the handle looks great with the gaurd

yep yep and yep try messing around with different twists you can come up with some cool stuff heres a few ive done

if you can find spikes that are marked with hc on the head you will be better off as they contain more carbon and will harden slightly i use a brine solution to harden them and then i simply leave them at full hardness.OH and remember rr spikes taken from tracks is illegal but they can be purchased very cheaply

i agree with all the above jim hrisoulas has written great books that have helped me in many ways but remember untill you put the hammer to hot steel its all just opinions and peoples individual methods.

hey everyone i just finished my new gas forge just need a little more fire brick but i gave it the first test run today and got some pics tell me what yall think.It got a peice of 1/2 inch round stock up to forging temps in just 3-4 minutes

Thats a lot of good info but if i may add one thing that helped me alot when learning how to forge weld was if you use 20 mule team borax its a good idea to bake out the chemical water all you do for that is take your borax put it in a oven container of some sort and bake at 400 for at least two to three hours.(just incase someone didnt allready know that)

hey everyone i am currently in a search for some 0-1 and r6 steel and was wondering if any one knew of some suppliers i might be able to check out.

my experience with all the cable ive used is that it is either 1095 AKA extra improved plow steel or 1075 which is commonly called improved plow steel the reason i know these specs is because the cable i have comes from a crane and those are the steels they spooled off and on during a 5 year maintenence.I myself would however stay away from any cable that is not soild core as it is really difficult to remove fiber cores and if you burn em out it makes a heck of a mess. If you need some good solid core cable i have quiet a bit and wouldnt mind sharing hope this helps.

what materials did you use in your billet?the pattern is great!

VERY NICE! i also have a few roller bearings out of a micon 700 gearbox (its a type of wind turbine) that ive considered forgeing but was not sure how feasable it was nice to see one done so well

i was able to scavange cable from my work i work on wind turbines and when we were cleaning the site we found lots of crane cable that had been discarded after failing osha standards so i asked if i carried it off if anyone would miss it no one seemed to care so i know have over 300ft of various types and thickness of cable the knife in the pic was made from a 1 1/2in cable tow strap