• Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

About kbaknife

  • Rank
    Senior Member


  • Location
    Central Illinois
  1. Does anyone know of the location of a moving movie for the 25/50 LGs? Surely would be nice. I need to lay a 50#-er down for a long trip and sort of realized it's been so long since I had Sid rebuild it that I forget how he lay it down, picked it up, where he strapped it and moved attach points during the lift, etc. I remember picking it up by the 'C', pulling the bottom out and laying it down. Then we re-attached the chains somewhere and then lifted it straight up. But I don't recall how we attached the chains on the horizontal lift. Then we just back the truck underneath it and lay it in the truck bed. Anyway, just kind of curious if anyone has this process on video. I have until August to figure it out. Surely would make a nice "How to........." video on you tube. ;)
  2. Correct on the soak time. Put simply - VERY simply - "critical temp for a lot of the tool steels is in the range of 1475-1500. O1 should soak at that controlled temp anywhere from 10-20 minutes for complete saturation. To do less is just undercutting the potential of O1. If you only have the capabilities of getting steel "hot" and then quenching, stick with simpler steels like 1070, 1080, 1084, using the correct speed oil. Allllllllllllllllllllllllll kinds of folks will say that, "Oh, that just ain't so. I've made tons of blades from O1 by getting them non-magnetic and quenching in french fry oil." If that's the process you would use, then you would actually end up with a BETTER blade if you used simpler steels. O1 needs controlled soak time - period. Non-magnetic is NOT critical temp. It's the IRON in the steel that is going non-magnetic and that is at 1414 degrees. Waaaaaaaaaay short of the temp you need for austenization. Non-magnetic is only an INDICATOR that you are closing in on your target temp. Even though 5160 and 1084 are entirely different steels and require different austenization temps and times, they will both go non-magnetic at the same temp.
  3. No appologies necessary. The term "forging" can mean more than one thing. When I "forge" a knife, I will use one of two "forges", my power hammer, my press, both of my anvils, and now I have an additional tool for other processes. In a pinch, this one tool could do them all. My first anvil cost me $900.00 almost 10 years ago. That can be a daunting hurdle for many new "forgers". This instrument can take some of the pain out of that process, and offer other alternatives as well to the already complete shop..
  4. I do NOT use it for forging - I have two anvils. This is just to help a person out.
  5. They're not a trip hazard at all. I don't walk where they are.
  6. Thought maybe this might give somebody an idea or two. Whenever someone undertakes the first few steps into knife forging, it seems like the first thing sought is an anvil. Big surprise! Not easy to find, and a new one is serious expensive! The first one I bought cost me $900.00. The things you will see here are basically scrap! Keep in mind that the importance of an anvil is NOT just something to beat steel on. The weight of the anvil is designed to RETURN the energy of the blow to the back side of the workpiece. With a light piece of steel as an anvil, the energy of the hammer blow just passes right on through the work piece and is consumed by the earth below. Here is a concept using a large piece of scrap steel and a piece of railroad track. When a lot of guys are told to use a piece of RR track, they get one and then use it WRONG! It should be stood on end so that the entire mass of the track is directly BELOW the hammer blow. This set-up I made here also works as a work station to forge the "Brut-de-Forge" knives, as it can be rolled around the shop and located right next to the forge, and then rolled out of the way until needed again. I have also used this for twisting Damascus and wrought iron. I use the vise to straighten my blades, just unlimited uses in the forge area. It can also be loaded up into a truck or onto a trailer and taken to hammer-ins!!! Just get to a recyle yard somewhere in your neigborhood and find a chunk of HEAVY steel to set on top of a piece of RR track. Find a buddy who does some welding. The base is 5/8" steel plate. I figure the whole thing weighs in at around 325 pounds. I got lucky on the placement of the wheels - it balances perfectly for tilting back and rolling around the shop. ]
  7. Here's a little thing I've kept myself busy with. 378 layers of 1084/15N20. Damascus fittings made from some W2 and 203E. Sambar Stag handle with mild steel Take-down finial. Finial and fittings were hot blued for contrast. Fun stuff.
  8. Look here: Knife Making Supplies
  9. http://www.knivesby.com/5160.html (Frequently Asked Questions) TCF -- Forging, Heat Treatment and Finishing
  10. I think you'll see far more vertical tanks simply because of the availability of the material used to make the tank - pipes, gas tanks, etc. It's just cheaper to find 'junk' than to weld one up or search for the proper sized tank. I like the entire cutting edge to hit the tank at one time. When you go in vertically, as the last portion of the blade makes it into the quench fluid, it's passing through oil that has been super-heated by the leading portion of the blade. So in essence, you are getting irregular cooling of the fine cutting edge due to different oil temps. Whenever you can, go the extra step to make your processes the best you can. It pays off in the end.
  11. Yes, and underneath is a double electric burner from Wal mart. heats up the oil while you're getting ready. I have two for two different speeds of oil.
  12. Do you understand that "tempering" is secondary to hardening? Before any tempering steps are taken, it is necessay to get the steel to a fully hardened condition that is achieved by getting the steel to a temperature in the range of 1450-1500 degrees, without being too hot, or too cool, and quenching into a media that will extract that heat so as to bring the steel's temperature down to about 900 degrees in a few seconds. This sets up the steel's internal atomic structure so as to precipitate a transformation that results in a condition that is extremely hard and brittle. "Tempering" is the second step that helps to complete this transformation and, at the same time, relieves some of the built up stresses that result from creating this new condition. Before you chase down tempering times, colors and temperatures, FIRST you need to get the steel fully HARD. Focus on that FIRST. anvilfire FAQs (Frequently Asked Questions)
  13. If you've done a good job pinning your grain size, thermal cycling your steel post-forging, and don't over heat your steel, .030" is about perfect for hardening if you use the proper quenchant.
  14. It doesn't increase the probability of success during quenching. It may, however, DECREASE the possibility of failure. The thinner sections can over heat VERY quickly, experience EXTREME grain growth when exposed to extreme heat, and suffer from radical cooling rates when so many people use quenchants that were designed for auto transmissions, or for cooking french fries. Irregular grinding practices, along with failure to stress relieve during post-and pre-forging phases, can cause irregular cooling rates and cause warpage. By leaving edges thicker, this extra material can help to resist deformation during the creation of martensite.