caintuckrifle

Anyone ever seen anything like this before? it looks kind of handy, I just might make one and give it a shot!

I've been to that store a time or two!

Can someone help me understand the difference between annealing and normalizing carbon steel. From my understanding both require the stock to be heated to the critical temperature and then cooled slowly. As far as I know in both cases the particles realine and the lattice is refined yielding a soft workable piece. Is normalizing just only used the context before heat treating versus before further working? Is their a difference and what is it? This may be a newbie question but maybe you guys can help me understand! Thanks! Caintuckrifle

I've used corn cobs with good results before.

learn to forge weld and make your hawks out of mild. Use what you got for a high carbon bit. Just my $0.02

I highly recommend Wayne Goodards "50 Dollar Knife Shop" he talks a lot about how to get started on the cheap in a small space. I think you would really enjoy and learn a lot from it.

I can't seem to get pictures up from this device, I'll try and get some up though. I have access to just about anything, acetylene torch, small mig, buzz box, if I need anything else I know people that can help. The biggest issue is that I don't have the original piece so I need a different way to mount the blower.

I recently picked up a Cannedy Otto Royal Western Chief blower from a local metal salvage yard. With a little elbow grease the blower now runs like a champ however I now have two other challenges to address that I was aware of. The original mounting bracket that was originally cast into the side cover has long since broke off leaving a hole and no way to mount the blower. I can repair the hole by riviting a copper patch on, but am unsure as to how I should mount the blower. Any ideas or suggestions are appreciated. It's is still a great tight blower and there's many years left in it so I hate to throw it out. Thanks, Caintuck

Fly press and power hammer, because there's so much cool stuff that can be done with them...

I picked up this hammer the other day at a metal salvage. It appears to be a straight peen sledge however the faces are much wider than any others I have seen. Is there a specific name for this style of hammer or what type of things would it be used for? Thanks

At the very least you could have a heck of a mailbox stand!

I have seen time and time again that many beginners are not heating their work nearly as hot as it needs to be, this causes cracks, stresses, and all sorts of other problems (not to mention more works for the smith. This is often due to an insufficient forge or a lack of experience or knowledge. Dull red is not forging temperature! Dull red means it is time to put the piece back in the forge. Don't be afraid to get it hot, then make sure you quit early enough, it's not that hard to reheat. If you do work until its too cold, it just takes longer to bring it back up to temperature, and can cause all the problems previously mentioned. Just make sure it does not get too hot and burn. Just go to You-Tube and you will see many beginning smiths working steel that is way to cold.

Use a Cole drill, you can drill through just about anything.

Thanks for your help everybody.

So, for example I have a Peter wright marked 1-1-1 (141lbs) yet it actually weighs 138 lbs. is this just material loss over time or was it originally stamped with the plus or minus 3-5 lb rule in mind?

I have had this question for some time so I guess I'll just post it here and see what comes. Back in the day anvils were forged on large equipment from several pieces as I understand. Was there quite a bit of variation From anvil to anvil, manufactured during this time, in the same factory, and in the same "run"? Or were they all pretty much the same exact shape and weight. I guess what I am wondering is were they all uniform, exactly the same weight and shape? Or did they vary considerably as with most any other forged item? Thanks, Caintuck

I would like to acquire it, but not for that price. Thanks Guys!

No I have not, the price is a bit steep for me.

Can anyone help identify this anvil? I don't have many other pictures because it is not in my possession. Also can anyone tell me why the horn looks a bit funny? Thanks. Caintuck

Pet peeves of 2014: swords, knives, and armor.

Another anvil! 141lb Peter Wright!

An old boy told me the devil hates the sound of a working man, you tap the anvil to keep him away.

I know this is an old post but here is my experience, in the slough next to my grandpas there is all kinds of metal "junk" the are served as a dumping ground years ago. Through the years we have found clothes irons, bottles, wagon tires as well as buggy and agricultural equipment parts to name a few. One day I was searching just for fun and pulled out a nice but rusty object I recognized as a hardy tool,though I was not quite sure, the next day I pulled out another. Long story short , I removed a dozen and a half hardy tools, punches, 1 pair of tongs, and a buffalo forge 147 post drill all of which received a heavy wire brushing and clean up and are being used in my shop. We talked to one old boy and my grandpa, turns out there was a farm shop there which got bulldozed to fill the slough a few years before my great grandfather bought the property. A neighbor remembers hanging from the horn of the anvil and cranking the forge blower for fun as a child. So far I have yet to remove an anvil but here's to hoping. It is a heck of a story and I hope you all enjoy.

I broke a vise screw free with that recipe, it is an excellent penetrating oil better that wd-40 at least.

I now have two vises, a Peter wright and a iron city both about 5-1/4 inch. I am wondering if anyone finds that they like a second vise mounted horizontally or otherwise to facilitate certain tasks or even lower or higher than their standard vise? Thanks, caintuckrifle