ironrosefarms

interesting idea Jayco, Another thread going on is about building a set of great bellows. As I was thinking back I remember that the set that I helped build was a bit slow on the rebound so on the inside the guy I was helping attached 3 RR plates side by side. Since these where supposed to be somewhat "historically correct" he was able to hide the added weight on the inside away from the eyes of the public.

Frosty you are spot on... I don't hardly know how I would take my next breath without my bride. Her support of all my oddities and the similarities that we share are the greatest blessing in my life. James

Finnr, I think your right Blacksmith code section II subsection 'j' part 3.03.2 "As a blacksmith all forms, types, and styles of scrap iron, steel or similar materials shall be subject to being collected from public roadways, ally ways, and other public fairs. Failure of a known smith to make such collections shall be subject to an indefinite number of distractions and priorities to keep them away from the forge." and section IV subsection 'a' part 2.07.9 "A blacksmith's scrap pile shall grow at a rate of at least twice that of what he uses in a given year. " and finally section X subsection 'e' part 4.01.1 "A blacksmith shall not take in for recycle any quantity of metal. Exception may be made only if said blacksmith returns from said recycling location with more metal than he originally took." :D

I hear you on the "the police never came". This has happened 4 different times just in the past year. That is why I keep big dogs and have a wife who can shoot just as well (or better) than I can.

As for the use of powder coat, I have used it on motorcycle parts in the past and it wore very well with all the dirt, gravel and other junk hitting it regularly. It tends to be a pretty durable surface. Visually the big difference is powder coat tends to have a bit of an orange peel texture compared to enamel paints. It can be chipped but in my experience it takes quite a hit to chip it. Here is a website that gives the products they manufacture and their appropriate uses... Protech PowderCoats The section for outdoor items such as fences is here Outdoor Powder Coating Just some food for thought...

You are very fortunate not only that you was was able to get all your tools back but that you did not have to defend yourself. Thank God for those neighbors who still watch out for each other... James

Reb, thanks for taking the time with the cowboy hat pictures! James

"Am i beeing overly concerned here? " Not at all Johannes, it is a good point that you wouldn't want to put something particularly flammable in a location prone to spark or flame. As I was reading your post the thought did occur that most tent material is coated with a fire retardent (NOT intended to make it fire proof though). The oil that my friend used on his bellows before his passing was a simple cooking oil, not overly prone to igniting without a direct flame. Non the less a good point to think about. If leather is used it would be wise to give it a yearly checkup and put some leather conditioner on it to help ward off the fiber breakage at the creases and help keep dry rot at a minimum. The last time I seen the bellows I helped build it was full of patches because it had not been maintained.

Great project! One thing I picked out that could cause a problem, I don't think I would hang the bellows from leather straps. The leather will eventually dry rot and cause a serious hazard above your head. The one I helped build and install was hung with hand forged chain and timber bracing. Also I agree canvas would be easier and cheaper to work with, the man I worked with for several years used canvas on his personal bellows (not the one I helped build). He used an old military tent that he picked up from a surplus store for very little. Then to keep the canvas in good condition he oiled the canvas. Once hung in the ceiling it was not at all obvious that it wasn't leather on those bellows... The valves can also be made out of a heavy rubber inner tube. The bellows I mentioned above had rubber valves that he rubber cemented canvas to on the side away from the lumber (it gave the rubber more body)... One of the biggest enemies of a bellows is rodents, the use of a hot pepper spray on the leather or canvas often will deter the varmints from chewing their way into the sides.

I just went through your gallery and found a picture of the top of your pan, it looks nearly identical to mine, maybe even sisters? Pipe with a flange and an off chute for air going up to the fire similar to what I drew above. The black pipe shown in the pan of this photo Photo would be ok shape wise but really should be bigger. The fan size found on most of these pump type (ratchet as I call it) forges will do better with a larger pipe in my opinion. The small blower won't much like the back pressure of that small pipe and it will probably clog up fairly easy as well and with a hand powered blower you won't need a valve. The cap on the bottom will work but I will bet you will quickly find it to be a royal pain in the buttocks... I'll try and get out to get some pictures of mine today if time allows between Cub scout and Boy scout meetings...

Mine did not ever have a bowl, how about some pictures to show us more of the bottom and top of the pan. The hole in the middle of mine is only about 2 inches across. When I got mine I did have to make a "grate" over the pipe but that was just a piece of sheet steel with some holes drilled in it. That grate actually lays ontop in the pan flat. James

I have got some steel that I plan to make a couple different sizes. So this is very timely. What is the typical dimensions for the monkey tools you own or make? How much shoulder do you usually want around the tenon hole for an average monkey tool? (I understand that this might change for special work situations)

It was and is our honor to pray, now it is our joy to give Him the praise!!! James

I thought I had some pictures of when I took mine down to the last nut and bolt but can not seem to find them... So here is a rough sketch that might help you out. If you don't have the pipe section, it wouldn't be hard to weld one up. James

I'm with HW, I would heat it up, first take a good wire brush and work the shaft over especially and then hit it with some heat. If that fails a good soak in a big tub of kerosene would be my next attempt. Mine wasn't quite that mucked up when I got it but go slow and any banging you try should be done with a rubber mallet or such to reduce the chances of chipping the cast work. James

A beautiful prayer and one I will pray with you. Where 2 or more are gathered in His name... James

BORN~ I was BORN to be at the forge...

Currently keeping it in the white plastic type feed sacks. I have two bags that are pretty nice dime sized lumps that I keep in the garage, I have a lesser quantity that is outside in it's bag that is almost all fines that I am trying to use up right now, keeping it outside keeps it moist and seems to help it coke up better? Have plans for a coal storage area made of brick and wood that should hold about 1000 pounds plus a storage area near the forge that should hold about 200 pounds. Though I am really considering doing some trials with some charcoal and if it goes well I will build a storage area for it as well or subdivide the coal storage?

At the moment I only have about 100 pounds of coal remaining, I was hoping to have a shop built with a new coal storage area before the snow flies here but it is looking less and less likely. My plan was to go and purchase a half ton (1000 pounds) to put in the store house (not yet built) but plans seem to be made to be broken... I'm about as low now as I ever let myself get, but I did actually run out one time about15 years ago... It wasn't exactly convenient having to get in my truck driving the 35 miles one way...

Thank you Frosty, now I know

Good to hear life is coming back to normal or at least you have hot showers again... Stihl is an excellent saw. Husq and Stihl are two of the most respected names in saws around, I'm sure you'll have that Stihl for a long time to come...

TURN - or you could end up in a small steep banked mountain lake or pool!

********WARNING DUMB QUESTION AHEAD********* This raises a question in my head... The cutting tooth link should be high carbon, I understand that... However I wonder about the link between those that rides in the bar. They seem to be pretty soft? Is this so and if so how does it effect the end result of a pattern weld for say a blade?

With recent talk of tool values here and such and a friend who asked how much I have invested... it got me thinking, then it kind of scared me... I have very little equipment compared to some of you and yet the dollars racked up pretty quick. I've decided that in the process of building a permanent shop that I will do a inventory list of everything before it goes into the building...

JR, great looking old tool... just wondering though what the reason was for the offset jaws? jkeller, at less than 50 cents per pound I think you just about stole it... and what could be better than free for the other goodies... way to go... James