dkunkler
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Posts posted by dkunkler
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Could one not oil quench with the foil still wrapped around the blade? seems to me that a thin piece of foil would not be much of an insulation to keep the steel from rapidly cooling, but of course I've never done it before, hence the question
Unless you want to take the chance of an uneven quench, the foil should be quickly shucked off. Wrap it for easy removal and plan ahead on how you're going to snatch if off, practice before heat treat if necessary. -
Gun cleaner? Does the end have internal threads?
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I'm usually not a fan of painted ironwork, but I think this turned out great.
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If it needs to be food safe, use veg oil - linseed, olive, or whatever foodsafe oil you may use, or beeswax, the briwax suggestion is for stuff that isn't going to be in contact with food etc as it's mostly carnuba wax plus carriers like toulene which are kinda nasty...
I just want to clarify what Colleen said. Although pure linseed oil is ok, most oil that is labeled as "boiled linseed oil" contains solvents and dryers that make it toxic. -
Thomas, you're expanding my vocabulary, I had to look up penultimate.
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Welcome aboard.
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Plain mild steel should be fine, but if you have something tougher, go for it.
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Wasn't it Ben Franklin who said Believe none of what you hear and half of what you see and all of what you find on the internet?
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"Hey, Casimir. What is that big dove-tail-shaped slot for??" You idiot, Helmut!! Thats for the scale to fall into. Now, when I nod my head, hit it!!"
That's funny.
:D
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From the photo it looks like the top die has a little nub for spreading hollow rivets/gromets.
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Please be careful using brake cleaner, it can be dangerous.
http://www.iforgeiron.com/topic/12927-brake-cleaner-phosgene-article/page__hl__%2Bbrake+%2Bcleaner__fromsearch__1 -
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I like it. Did you use your zipmax for that?
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Looks good,ready for use.
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Mid Missouri anyone? just got started but I'm very interested.
Check this out.
http://bamsite.org -
Drilling a starter hole in the cube will help center the ball.
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The thermal expansion coefficient for aluminum is more than twice that of granite.Granite tables had aluminum subtables due to the same rate of thermal expansion. Trivia for those inquiring minds
Rob
http://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/linear-expansion-coefficients-d_95.html -
They look great John, I really like the detail on the leaves.
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A new hammer and a flypress on the way.... It's like Christmas in October.
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I got a hunk as well and found it very difficult to hand forge as well. I made a Celtic like cross.
It's some interesting stuff to work with and buffs up to a bright shine. Could you post a picture of your cross please? -
Depending on the shape, I like to leave about 1/3 of the swage pattern in the inner most part of the die. It will make turning the part while forging easier too. I can show a picture of what I mean if my words aren't cutting it....
Could you explain this part further please, yes a picture would be nice. Thanks. -
I got it from Patrick Nowak. I couldn't remember the alloy number, so I emailed him last night with this reply
"The alloy is UNS # C63200. You can also find it listed under Copper Development Authority (CDA) # 630. This alloy forges very well in the range of about 1300-1600 F. forging it colder than that will likely result in cracks. Also, it can be heat treated. If you quench it, unlike copper, it will harden so I would advise air cooling after forging.". If anyone needs some NiAl Bronze, his contact info is in this thread. http://www.iforgeiro...__fromsearch__1
Preserve your temper!
in Anvils, Swage Blocks, and Mandrels
Posted
Just don't burn your shop down around your anvil and you should be ok. :)