dkunkler

You can find more info and how to make the treadle setup here.
http://www.iforgeiron.com/topic/24992-hooking-up-gasaver-for-torch/page__p__251892__hl__saver__fromsearch__1#entry251892

Impressive, looks rock solid and hard hitting. Great job John and great job on the videos Dave.

Great step-by-step and photos George. I saw your BP a while back and thought I'd give it a try. Here's my variation of the candle holder.

campfire, I take it you need a raised fire pit? how much does it cost for the event?

Yes, here's the registration form for 2011 with prices.
http://sofablacksmiths.org/conference2011/QS%202011%20Registration%20Form.pdf

Welcome to IFI, Brian.

Way oil is the way to go. It's what I use on both of my fly presses.

I think bronze bushings are going to handle the abuse and shock loads of a hammer much better than similarly sized (or priced) recirculating ball linear bearings.

Great find Sam.

WD40 contains mineral oil, a no-no for oxygen fittings. Anything that can leave oil or organic residue behind is a problem. Also no pipe joint compound. Be safe and check with your gas supplier or place that does gauge repair.

You can get some interesting coloring and patterns with this method. First get a clean, bare steel surface by sanding or other methods. Wet metal with water and sprinkle with salt, I prefer the patterns from coarse salt or rock salt. Heat with a propane torch until you see the colors you want and quench in water. Rinse off all the salt, dry and apply oil or clear finish immediatly before it rusts. The sample in the photo was done with fine grain salt, I didn't have any rock salt on hand.

John's name is spelled Emmerling. I saw a video of his hammer, it looks like a nice tight guide system. I think you've got a really good start on your build.

And by portable, I mean that it will only be about 3' tall and will have prongs that can be pushed into the ground.

If it's only 3' tall, the pointy finial may be a impaling hazard. Other than that, I like your design sketch. I'd go with 5/8" stock.

Not all are headless and barbed. http://www.speeco.com/products.php?id=45&id2=52&prod=32

Try this link http://www.appaltree...rusty/index.htm

Spanish
Intente este acoplamiento

http://www.appaltree...rusty/index.htm

http://www.iforgeiron.com

It was on ebay last month, bidding didn't meet the reserve.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Electrical-Mechanical-Forging-Hammer-drop-hammer-/290639388559?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item43ab751f8f

Frank has it, but I'll expand a little on what he said. Order of speed of quench, from slowest to fastest, goes something like Super Quench--brine--water--oil.

Don't you mean fastest to slowest?

I think Rich is referring to the blueprints.
http://www.iforgeiron.com/page/index.html/_/blueprints/?view=archive

Another option is, take a real 3 inch candle and hollow out a space in the top for small battery powered fake one.

Anyone know how to remove the gear cover on the buffalo silent 200 14" blower? It doesn't seem to have any screws on it. I will look at it again in the light tomorrow.

Larry

One screw on each side, countersunk in the main casting near the top of the smaller removable cover.

Take a look at this topic for more discussion on this.

http://www.iforgeiro...ng-and-drifting

Thanks Brian. When I read the first few posts of this thread it reminded me of the one you linked to, but I was having trouble finding it.

Another thing concerning galvy is the very popular "turkey in a garbage can" method of cooking a turkey.

Yikes! First time I've seen that, don't want to try it.

Yeah it will harden out to about 52 rockwell ©. So far I have only done the fab work I have to pick up a load of coal before I can harden it. Its 30 inches long and about 13.875 high. I still need to finish the polish on the horn and break the edges on the top. I also need to round up a couple of helper to get it out of the forge and into the oil bath. I have picked up 100 gallons of used oil for a quench bath. That's puppy's gonna smoke like nobodies business when I quench it.

Wouldn't a water quench be more appropriate for something this size?

I say it's definitely a keeper, Bruce. Phil's right, looks to be a complete taper attachment. Even if you don't use it, you can part it out on ebay. If you decide to bring it back to life, PM me and I'll hook you up with some documentation. It would be a shame to see that American made cast iron and steel melted down.

Back to the holes. So what did you do? Pulled from the outside???

Great job, it looks solid. I'm with Randy on on this, not sure what you meant by "pulled from the outside". Could you please elaborate?

excellent filework.