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Posts posted by dkunkler
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Whether you call it traditional or modern, I think it's an excellent video that will inspire others to give it a try.
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you can rent it from SmartFlix.
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Like I said, case-hardening could help somewhat. Not a lot. It might not be worth the the expense of finding and buying compound just for this. Keep an eye out for some heavy truck leaf spring you can flatten for new dies after these wear out.
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I live between Ft. Knox and Brandenburg and apparently near Lein, althought I dont know him. Yet. Send me an email if you want to stop by sometime.
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You could extend their life somewhat by case-hardening them with Kasenit or Cherry Red.
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Reminds me of the Aesop fable "The Crow and the Pitcher".
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Here's a pair I made a few years ago.
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One time a fellow was trying to up the price on a set hammer I wanted telling me that the *new* handle was worth more than what I thought was fair to pay---well it was handled so badly that I pulled the new handle out of the head and handed it to him and said now how much?
I would like to have been there to see the look on his face when you pulled the handle out and handed it to him. -
Scored a 2.66 in 147s time on the second try. That close enough for me.
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Here's a chuck, under 9 bucks including shipping.
http://cgi.ebay.com/1-4-MINI-Snap-Hex-Shank-KEYLESS-Electric-DRILL-CHUCK-/230481670327?pt=BI_Tool_Work_Holding&hash=item35a9c730b7
You can probably find one at a local hardware store also. -
It's a gasaver. http://www.smithequipment.com/products/pdfpages2008/page68.pdf
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That sounds like way too small of a hole for a 4 pound sledge. I think you need to open it up some to fit a decent sized handle.
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Using a heavier hammer may also reduce the mushrooming.
A slow speed blow from a heavy hammer gives more of a "push" effect. With sharp raps of a lighter hammer more enery is absorbed near the point of impact spreading the metal of the tool. -
I looked for you at Quadstate Thomas, but didn't spot you. I went home with a nice Lorance swage block, some rivets, some copper, and other goodies.
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No,..........I ah..........was thinking too fast...........that's the ticket, or reading too fast maybe. Yeah, thought it was 16" diameter. Well, cut the length down and slip in something at least 2" thick X 10" square to spread the load. Weld the plate to the round and bolt the plate to the block/table. Don't stack thin plates.
I knew you would offer good advice once you slowed your brain down and read the post correctly. :D -
Stacking plate horizontally as thin as 1/2" would absorb some of the energy of the impact and decrease the efficency of the anvil. If you have access to a 36" length of 6" dia. round, use that with plate as a base.
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If it were 16" diameter by 6" thick I think it would spread the load ok, but at 6" in diameter in the middle of that cast iron top may be a problem. Also 24" for the table plus 16" for the round steel puts you at 40", that's a little high for anvil height. Grant, did you read his post as 16" diameter ?
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Hole punch.
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Quad-State---the biggest annual blacksmithing wingding! Held in Troy OH, (small town north of Dayton OH) the last full weekend of September, this year Sept 24-26.
http://www.sofasounds.com/conference2010/2010index.htm
I'm driving about 1500 miles (each way) to go to it in an un-airconditioned pickup without cruise control....
I hope you have a safe trip there and back. I'm going for the first time this year. Maybe I'll see you there. -
Beautiful sword, excellent job. It's ironic, a "Cut and Thrust" with "Hug and Kisses".
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I agree, It would make a good belt grinder. It's TENV (total enclosed non-ventilated), that will keep out the dust and grit. It's designed for treadmill use with a wide range of speed and torque for long periods of time and plenty of horsepower is a plus.
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There's been some discussion on this before. Here are a couple of links.
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Another gold vise. http://cgi.ebay.com/Vise-Antique-1800s-/380263060205?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item588971d2ed
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Click on save just below the lower righthand of the photo. That should open it in a new window.
Beaudry #7 questions (drive pulley/motor speed etc.)
in Power Hammers, Treadle Hammers, Olivers
Posted
Multiply the motor RPM by the motor pulley size and divide by the driven pulley size.
If a jackshaft is involved the driven pulley would be the larger jackshaft pulley and this would calculate the jackshaft RPM. You can then multiply the jackshaft RPM by the smaller jackshaft pulley size and divide by the final pulley size for the final RPM.