dkunkler

I bought a hunk of nickel aluminum bronze at QuadState and forged the 2 bigger crosses a couple weeks ago and made the little one saturday with a scrap from a larger cross. The original piece was about 1" square and I reduced it down to about 5/8" on the rolling mill. I was amazed at how tough this stuff was and how hot it could be worked (orange heat).

Awesome work, so realistic. I hope to see them up close some day. I'll email you for the step by step. Thanks John.

This thread has a lot of info on this.
http://www.iforgeiron.com/topic/16108-cylinder-to-tup-connection/page__p__163276__hl__+hammer%20+bushing__fromsearch__1#entry163276

Yes, you are probably right about the pillow block. Don't have any bronze bearing, maybe one could use two single ball bearings with 17 mm axis?
Regarding the roller i only have some mild steel that is 2".

I really think you need the bronze. There is a lot of force being exerted and you need something that can handle it.

I built one of these today and it's the greatest thing since single malt......Forged a real sloppy rough in taper and it looked like a mandrel in two heats......I built mine a bit different but the results are the same......Thank you Southshoresnith for posting this timesaver.....

Not quite as quick to change out as dropping a jig onto a flat die, but having it saddled in a die it should take a lot more abuse and last much longer. Great idea, I'll have to try it.

What final rolling speed do you want?

Phil

Around 10-12 ft/min. or 20 RPM seems to work good.

Planning to make the rolls the same size.
Are you using mild steel to the rolls. >Have some carbon steel avaible at a diameter of 1 3/4"
Are you using brass for the lower roll. I have some pillow blocks i will try to use.

According to McDonald mild steel should be fine, although I used some higher carbon shafting I already had. I wouldn't go smaller than 2" on the rollers. The smaller diameter would give you a steeper climb angle and not have enough "bite" to pull the stock through unless you reduced the stock in very small increments with each pass. I used bronze bushings inside the lower roller. I don't think pillow blocks would work well on the lower roller because of clearance problems. I really recommend getting the Hugh McDonald plans and stick close to the basic mechanics of it, although I think you can be flexible in the roller drive speed reduction.

where can I get this at ( and how much)? That would make awesome inlays

Plenty available on ebay. This will give you an idea of the size and price.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Tagua-Nut-Carving-Dried-Uncut-4-Nuts-/160646406250?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item256745a06a

Great tooling! What's the deal with the stop blocks under the v-blocks? Wouldn't there be less chance of marking if they did pivot?

It looks like they are allowed to pivot somewhat and the stops prevent the v-blocks from flopping over when positioning stock.

I've been kicking around the idea of a parallelogram setup like this for the flypress, but never got around to working out the details. It looks like a real handy tool. I can see where your adding 2 middle disks could help in positioning for marking near the end of stock. I dig your jig.

I'm glad to see you made it home safely Thomas. It was good to meet you in person for the first time.
I also had a great time, met a lot of great people, and hauled home some goodies.
It seems like time just flew by, and before you know it, it was sunday afternoon.

Howdy Folks! Can you educate me on the location and nature of the Quad Sate event?

http://sofablacksmiths.org/conference2011/2011index.htm

I'd say think of it as a "wire saw".

With little tiny electron teeth. :P

You could try scraping followed by sanding.
http://www.iforgeiro...__fromsearch__1

htttp://www.iforgeiron.com/topic/11551-ugly-but-functional-fuller-scraper-easy-to-make/page__hl__%2Bscraping+%2Bfuller__fromsearch__1

I'm with Mike on this one, I have seen them in use and recognized it right off, alas, I don't know the correct name of it. But I don't see why it couldn't be used for decorative work.

A hoop driver is what I've heard them called.

You could get a little behind in your work . :lol:

OK. I get what you're saying. You're sort of swooping the tip of the file, down and then back up, as you push. And the point of contact with the work shifts backward, toward you, as you're doing that. Huh. I'll have to try that.

I think you've got it now Matt.

Grasshopper what relevance has that???????

Kung fu. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_iaamkUEF_A
And a funny version. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QWlJndr3BKE

Is the tailgating good enough to be worth it even if you only have like $100 to spend?

Yes, lots of bargains to be found. If you have stuff you're not using, you can bring it to sell.

Nice bowl, I like it. What did you squish that with ?

If the application doesn't require the hole to be square all the way through, you could bore the middle portion to a larger inner diameter on a lathe. Squaring just the two ends would be much easier.

Drift square as others have said and true up the outside by turning the bulges off in a lathe.
Rotary broaching looks cool but very expensive, also the broach depth would be a problem.

This subject has been discussed here before including using it hand powered like a flypress. Do a search in forums for "punch press".
http://www.iforgeiro...h&fromMainBar=1

Click on Forums and go to the tailgating section.

You could try Bon Ami and rinse clean with hot water. Find it in the kitchen cleaning products isle.