dkunkler

how big is that? great finish however big it is, keep at it.

The cannon barrel is about 6 inches long.

I got this blue by sanding, washing with degreaser, and heating to about
575 F in my heat treat kiln. I took it out and sprayed with wd40 while still hot.

If the peened head is to be against wood, use a snug fitting washer between the head and the wood . This gives a larger shoulder without having to peen a large head.

Check this out. http://www.iforgeiron.com/forum/f85/corn-forge-9259/

Could you post some pictures please ? Also, what is your location ?

This may be what you are looking for.
http://media.popularmechanics.com/documents/pm-forge-1941.pdf

Old tire irons make good goose-neck hold-downs. Oil quench and temper like a spring.

I have a 24 volt battery charger wonder how that would effect the de-rusting process...

I have used 2 12 volt chargers in series with my electrolysis tub to speed things up, so your 24v charger should work fine. Just watch the ammeter so you don't overload it.

Check this out. "Metalsmith" 20-3,p21

I think you can reweld it. Heat till red, bend the loose segment out a little to open up the weld area ,heat till orange , quickly wire brush the scale out of the weld area, bend back closed and sprinkle with flux, bring to welding heat and weld.

Welcome to Iforgeiron. This is a great place to get started smithing.

I don't know of a scrap source, but you can buy it online at Admiral steel

It looks great. To improve the ratio, could you go a little smaller on the blower pulley ? Also maybe a lighter weight belt that would flex more easily around the smaller pulley.

If you are going to completely restore/rebuild it I suggest reading up on electrolysis. http://www.iforgeiron.com/forum/f21/de-rusting-technique-3425/
I've used this technique to restore several old machines and tools.

This may help.
http://www.iforgeiron.com/forum/f7/auto-parts-blacksmithing-junk-yard-parts-2806/

Great job! Does the rest of your forge tools look as good as the shovel?

No, most are for function only. This was an upgrade, function with a litle flair.

Neat work, looks good. I hope the maker of the quilt didn't mind you putting a coal shovel on it

The shovel had a fresh coat of melted on and rubbed in bees wax, so it was clean enough to eat off of. I didn't get in touble or yelled at.

Would you like to share some details of the construction? I'd love to hear em.

I found the idea for the shovel pan here http://www.calsmith.org/techniques/projects/simpleshovel.html
The pan part is simple, strong and easy to make. The handle is 7/16" CRS and the basket twist is made with 6 pieces of 3/16" CRS forged onto 3/16" tenons on the 7/16" handle and a short 7/16" piece at the end which gets tapered and formed into a hook. The rivets are made from a piece of 6 AWG copper wire.

I just finished this project today. It's something I've been meaning to do for a while and I can finally retire that cheap pressed sheet metal shovel I had been using.

Most bladesmiths will tell you "forge thick and grind thin". To much heating and forging can reduce the carbon content of the blade. Also the final shaping and finish would best be done after heat treating.

Based on the size and weight, I doubt that it could be thrown onto a pin other than a very short distance.

I use Mobil Vactra #2 way oil on my lathe and have never had a problem with gunk or varnish. You can get it through Enco, $14.99 Gal. They often have free shipping if you have the code. Do a web search for enco free shipping code.

I'm near Ft. Knox , less than 2 hours away.

I have used 3/8 spring stock for making flint strikers. Just forge ,harden, and temper.
It will throw plenty of sparks.