dkunkler

I think the knurl is unnecessary, smooth will give you finer starting and speed control. The 3' anvil should be OK if you're using bolt on dies. The top of my lower die is at 39.5", but I guess it depends on how tall you are.

Not inexpensive, but good quality blacksmithing coal.
Cumberland Elkhorn Coal & Coke
950 Swan Street
Louisville, KY 40204
Telephone: (502)589-5300

Only takes a 12 volt battery charger, sodium bicarbonate and an anode in tank of water with item to be cleaned.....

Sodium bicarbonate may work, but I prefer sodium carbonate (washing soda).

Good deal!

Here is a good photo step by step on a hot cut.
http://www.iforgeiron.com/topic/28865-making-a-hotcut/?fromsearch=1

Thanks John, I wasn't quite clear.  I meant hold as in it detains or halts its movement, not hold as in supports it.

DK,

 

Thanks for the explanation. I was beginning to think I had missed something...

 

And that's for power tools right?

 

Albert

Yes, they're used on presses, can be man powered like a flypress. I guess it would work on an air hammer if you can generate enough up force to raise the ram and extract the punch.

A stripper plate holds the punched object and strips it from the punch as the punch goes up.

On most scroll chucks it doesn't matter which slots the jaws are in as long as they are in the proper sequence. If they're closing evenly they're in sequence. You have 3 combinations of slots they'll go in, check for best sliding fit with scroll out.

Disassemble completely and clean. Test that jaws slide freely without scroll in. Clean up any burrs or dings causing them to hang up.

 http://www.iforgeiron.com/topic/16880-question-on-repairing-the-screwbox-on-a-post-vise/

Check post #15 of this thread.

You can catch a ride with me to the meeting next month if you like.

Looks good, which switch did you end up using?

I wanted to copy Brian's enlarged pictures.  I can copy the ones in the small format (which are to small to see the details) but when I try to copy the enlarged pictures nothing happens.  I want to print copies so that I can take the paper copies out to the shop.

I am using  a windows based machine.  Can anyone help me here?

Right-click on the center of the larger picture, then click on "Save picture as..." to save it.

Yeah, the green lead seems a little squirrelly. It even looks like it has a larger lug, as grounds often do.

I just don't want to see you smoke anything, and hope all goes well.

I saw that switch at surpluscenter. http://www.surpluscenter.com/pages/Catalog285-152.pdf

It looks like it comes in a couple of different versions, I would double check with a meter between all the leads just to be sure you have what you think you do.

Looks like a couple of pexto plates in the top.

Watch the video in this thread.

http://www.iforgeiron.com/topic/26409-the-birth-of-a-tool-chisel-making-documentary-movie/?hl=slick

Ridgeway forge, it is already in "Slitter Geometry", a thread started back in 2009. It covers thin and thick stock and different shaped holes. Try all the different ways out, and report back. I've done that, Dave's done that, and a few people I've shared it with have done the same.

"Knowledge comes from experience." Einstein

I talked to the tech dude and he said the pressure hole is always smaller than the return. I haven't bothered to look yet...... He informed me that I can operate my bender with an electric solenoid valve which will eliminate lots of hoses and make the whole thing alot less cluttered.... B)

I assume this is an auto correct issue. Have pity on the typo and concentrate on the issue.
Funny; neither of my legs are light blue, they are rather an off white pinkish colour...

Looks like a saw set for bandsaw blades.

It will soon be on view in the Fisher Norris Factory Museum. I am going to try to recreate the vise part, once I figure it out. BTW, this sold for $20 in the 1890's.

There has been some discussion on that subject here.
http://www.iforgeiron.com/topic/29858-1-piece-vs-2-piece/page__hl__%2Bpiece+%2Bhammer