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About sharxbyte

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    Making things.


    Metal, leather, wood, paper, canvas, paint, food, digital, photography, jewelry.

    Hunting, Fishing, Outdoorsmanship, Marksmanship, Horsemanship, Archery, Swordsmanship, Martial arts, Computers/technology.

    Reading all sorts of books

    Learning is the journey; a lifelong process, rather than a destination. Always strive to learn. Whether they are old, or young, or less or more experienced, everyone has something to teach you, whether it is something large, or something small.

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  1. Thanks for the input. Yesterday I set it aside and started my first stock removal from a sawblade, but I will revisit the hand forged one and see how it holds up.
  2. Well I started removing scale and realized that this is almost certainly not 1045. It cracks like air hardening steel. so great learning experience at the expense of time and what may have been a great knife. I have a cold chisel I'll try and if that doesn't work I'll probably order a billet of the 1095 you suggest. I COULD keep working it and see if it breaks during use, or I could make it ornamental, or I can set it aside as a lesson learned.
  3. I'm making a sushi knife for my brother. The steel is mystery, but I believe it was some sort of vintage masonry chisel (1045?) I have extra to practice heat treating on. The picture with the measure tape is the most recent. I can give more details and will update as I make progress.
  4. I've looked for hours around the web, and I know this was a stupid error on my part (wrong kind of heat treat on mystery spring steel, too lazy/hurried to test on a few scraps). The crack actually took place about 8 months ago, and I'm considering revisiting the blade. I don't want to weld or braze the crack shut (or at least not until I ensure that it won't propagate) but I had an idea. For glass, you can sometimes stop a crack by drilling a hole at the termination. I was thinking by using a large enough bit, I might catch even the microscopic end of the crack, and then either cut/grind/weld/fill/heat treat it and have a mostly serviceable blade, and if that fails, at least I still have a nice looking shelf knife. Unfortunately, I already made a sheath for it (before heat treat) but I guess I can re-make a similar enough blade to fit if all else fails. has anyone else used this method on a blade? what degree of success if any? Thanks!
  5. Definitely will. I like all my fingers, and want to keep making things for a long time.
  6. It's multi purpose. I may even be able to make steel ingots to forge blades from, but we'll see. The primary reason I built it as a furnace and not strictly a forge was to make bronze knife furniture. But there are all sorts of fun things to cast, including a scrap metal lathe eventually Without further adieu, here's the video Also, some pictures of the knife in working on.
  7. Was at the local farmers market, and actually saw one of the things I was looking for. it's not in bad shape, and the best part is that I only paid $10! Not sure what it weighs, but its definitely more than 40lbs. big upgrade from my HF special.
  8. I can actually maintain a good flow with this now :)
  9. I succeeded in fixing the valves, (splitting the plywood in half worked) and re-attached the bottom section of canvas, then caulked the seams. tomorrow I'll finish sealing the canvas.
  10. Turns out my lower valves are too heavy for good intake, so I'm lightening them up (splitting the plywood with a chisel to make it 1/4", and about half as heavy.)
  11. Working right now on finishing my great bellows HERE. Thanks for the input :)
  12. Thanks for the input! I have firebricks that I got from a local brick lot, and I think I even have enough to modify the forge. Currently considering modifying a sturdy table into a work bench (sheet metal over the top, pipe air from bellows underneath, and cut out a spot for the bellows on half of the table.