CleetisMorgan

Thanks to lean manufacturing practices, industrial pallet racking becomes more obsolete. I have welded up 3 of these, and this one keeps my propane forges out of the way in my small shop

So, the next question. My wife dutifully donated her iron to the anvil-heating cause as it's not used much anyway. Won't go there. On Saturday I started heating my two main shop anvils, a 180 lb Fisher and a 154 lb PW. Now, why would the Fisher heat up 3x as fast as the PW? I know cast vs wrought, but I was surprised at the difference. I know when I heat flint for arrowhead replication, the moisture in the micro fractures and the difference in crypto crystalline structure makes a difference. Does it on a big mass item as an anvil?

I like the rummage sale iron idea, also. You guys are addressing my other question--has anyone broken or chipped an anvil and attributed it to cold temps? I see "maybes" and "ifs", but want to know for sure. My next "fixer" may get a cold-sledging before it's welded up (:

Anyone have good ideas on keeping an anvil warm? Here in MI, we are entering that time of year where I need to get out in the shop a couple of hours early and light the wood stove before lighting the forge. I've covered my anvils with an insulated box with a light inside, wrapped one in heat tape and even set the 100 pounders on top of the wood stove while the shop was warming (hard to do with the 200 pounder, though). Any other ideas out there?

On PBS here in SW Michigan,Wednesday at 9, there is going to be a special on Nova about trying to replicate the forging of a Viking sword. It looked very interesting on the ad, anyway. the subject is a member, I will merge this with the existing thread about it.

Same vintage as all the rest.

Mr. Frog-- I did something today that I may regret. I stopped by my neighbor because I know he has a 150 lb PW, and we flipped it over. You'll never guess. There is an "O" in the same spot, same size, stamped not quite as deep. My phone was dead so I didn't get a pic, but he told me to stop by this weekend and I'll scrub her up and get a shot. So, unless someone was flipping these things over and playing tic-tac-toe, the plot thickens.

Here's my 180 lb Fisher and 154 lb PW back to back. Both stands are filled with concrete.

The rebound is great, there is nothing out of the ordinary other than the horn being more swelled proportionately than my other PWs, but the horns on my mouseholes and HBs are not exactly the same either. Hmmmm. It sure would be interesting to find out why the X rating...

It doesn't have the word England on it, but it also doesn't have the visible seam line (the 130 lb'er I restored has this line, along with a tall waist. These are the older ones, right?) So, your guess is better than mine (:

I started flipping over all 5 of my PWs today, and sure enough, I have an "X" rated one also. 191 pounder.

I should continue the story. I did give that anvil away. I just get excited to hear about other people's sweet finds...

Here in MI it's the start of garage/barn sale season, and I stop at every one looking for anvils or other bs tools. What's the best deal you got on an anvil? Last year I stopped at a sale and the guy had a 118# Hay Budden for $30, but let me have it for $25 because it was "dusty"!!

This weekend I was working with a striker on my PW 154#, and got to wondering...what is the smallest weight anvil that can safely be used under, say, an 8 lb sledge for general work? I know to stay away from the heel (:

I will second the vote for MG 710--just used 6 rods short of 10 lbs to reface a 99 lb HayBud ( all the steel from the hardy forward was missing ).

Just realized the pic didn't post

I bought this 180 lb Fisher a few weeks ago, and while cleaning it up found this rather large casting goiter on the side. Which made me wonder, were there such things as #2 grade anvils sold, or were people just more accepting of common flaws which did not affect function? Just curious...

Avast. Thanks to the weather keeping me out of the fields, I have started my repair work this afternoon. I am facing a 99 lb HayBud with Messer MG710. I have 3 layers down, and here are my 3 observations ( I'm taking a break while the anvil cools a bit ). 1. Keep your head out of the plume--after 2 hours I was talking like Tommy Chong. 2. It doesn't lay as nice as other hard facing rod I've used, especially into the 4th layer. 3. I catch myself looking up at the bench, longingly, at my boxes of Stoody rod. I will see this repair through, but as of right now am a little disappointed. More to come...

180 lbs, 1887. Just bought it last week.

Beebs did such a great job with the Stoody repair, I think I'll tackle this little Hay Budden with some Messler MG710

Love all the info here!!

Ok all. Later tonight I pick up the first victim--an 80 lb Hay Bud. The guy told me it has a broken plate--sounds like fun!!

Ok all. Later tonight I pick up the first victim--an 80 lb Hay Bud. The guy told me it has a broken plate--sounds like fun!!

As soon as I get my covetous meat hooks on 3 broken anvils we will do a careful comparison. I have the cost figured out per rod, and will measure the ground out area--keeping track of not only rods used, but try to figure out how many rods it took to fill a certain size area. I'm excited! And no, normally I don't discriminate against an anvil, but no Vulcans will be used in testing. I couldn't justify the cost.

Yes PLEASE!! Pics would help tremendously!!