Steve Sells

You never stated what kind of sword? a Rapier or Foil? never. Type X viking broadsword? Maybe as a wall hanger, Don't even think about a long Claymore in 440. At risk of annoying those that think otherwise 440 is not very good for swords, except for wall hangers as its too Brittle for that large of a blade. I have made 1 from 440c (rebuilt actually) and had to really lower the hardness to get any realistic flex, and would never advise someone use it for anything except to hang on a wall, as this one was intended There are many better steels available and a simple 1050 is great for most styles.

I am home from ER, A dropped sheet metal HVAC duct attacked me, but only got the back of my head, so no lasting harm done The end got me and cut deep enough to get to the skull, and that can be a real annoyance. I found out the hard way that my 13 yr old son Sean cant deal with the sight of blood, he is still freaking out. He is the one I am worried about. He was helping me when it got dropped on my head and knocked me down the stairwell, The 12 or so staples in my head should be able to come out in a week or 2. Bad way to start a Sunday.

3.1.0 is 364 in Cwt, 3.0.10 is 346 in cwt 310# in US take yer pick :)

I like that Charlotte, Great tip for when a steel splint is too large to fit in the given area !

OK Mess, your daughter is IN That looks first class, she did good.

I bet he was referring to the ANVILS age. I typo at expert level, and I do teach a master class in that if you are interesed :D

Maybe this should have been in the prayer list! Please don't give up. First get or make yourself tongs and a pair of gloves (at least for one hand) Never use bare hands to remove swarf or scale. You don't have to crank up the air so fast, it will take just a little longer to heat the steel, but use a lot less charcoal with a gentile air flow.

Welcome to I Forge Iron

A very thin section will do that, as mass is needed to retain the heat. Try to harden the blade anyway and see if it works out, Else you may have to restart and try again.

You only need that for heat treating as a normal fire pot is what I use for swords until I need to HT.

Welcome to I Forge Iron,. Every Friday at 10pm Eastern we have a live knife chat for about a hour, love to have ya join us.

actually the safest order is to try AIR first, then Oil, the water, There are many air hardening steels that may not react well to a oil quench

I am dyslexic so I may be a bit off in the numbers, but IIRC the space needed for water as a liquid expands about 1600 times when converted into steam. That much heat does it very fast.

there is advanced heat treating info in the knife sticky's

Welcome to I Forge Iron, in "User CP" you can tag your location so other know you are local to them , easier to learn when you have some 1-1 forge time . Glad to have you here

when I was watching this I thought of a member from here Language alert Molten Aluminum + Lab Techs = Fail Language alert

If we are bearing our souls here, My first pair of tongs worked just fine.... after I converted them into tent stakes :o

all the wheels have their own thing as to feel, but most work the same way. I only have a few contact wheels: 5/8" 2" 5" 8" and looking for a 1" and a 14"

I have both, use the Horz. band saw most for detail and smaller stock, but chop saw for pattern welded Billets of tool steels. I want to get a larger horz band saw, with 1 inch blades for my tool steels and such.

People taking the tools you made is a good sign. Thieves usually do not steal junk. they want the best!

Welcome to I Forge Iron, we have "Sticky's" these are posts that stick to the top of the list for easy referral. plenty of heat treat for general amithing, as well as knife making in the knife section. There is a lot to learn, and a lot of people willing to teach from among the membership here. Make yourself at home.

Welcome to I Forge Iron, have fun.

ooo you ignored the warning about unknown and Found wood! how will you heat treat that? LOL I had to have fun, great first try! While that wood could be anything as a photo can't tell me hardness, or color shifting from staining, it could be mahogany, and it could be a lot of things since you are in OZ, but either way it looks good keep it up.

I do it mostly for looks, Look at a pattern welded blade. we have a few posted here, and at my web site.

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