aprayinbear

Fantastic! That really helps. Happy Hammering

Please help with this Newbie question, In the past I've just started with whatever size piece of steel I have, headed to the forge and see whatever comes out. That's fine if I don't care about time to make or style of the finished product, but I'm trying to learn to work a bit more efficiently from drawings I create. My question is, if I want to end up with a knife that is approximately 3/16" finished (on the back of knife) and about 1 1/2 inches wide, what size blank do I need to start with? Is there a formula I can follow or some general guideline I can follow? All The Best!

Bigfoot, No offense taken at all. Many thanks for your comments. One of the great things about this board is that you can get "informed criticism." I think that's really important for anyone who wants to learn more and improve their craft. Happy Hammerin';)

I hear what you are saying BigFoot..... I'm pretty new to forging my own blades so I guess I got carried away with the file work. I had fun with the endcap as well.... just a bit of fun. And normally I agree about the more oval shape as well, but I was trying to remove as little of the antler as possible and stay closer to some of the originals which were simply a blade with a chunk of antler stuck over the tang with no shaping at all. Thanks for the suggestions.....helps me shape my thoughts about future pieces. Happy Hammerin'":cool:

That's a great question. The blade is a relatively light blade for it's size so it's probably not the best for heavy camp chores (like chopping wood), but it tempered well, takes an edge well, and slices like a charm. Is that what you were asking? All The Best!:rolleyes:

Thought You Might Enjoy a Peek.......... Just finished this reproduction of a 18th century "scalper or rifleman's knife." It measures about 13" overall. The blade was forged from a piece of salvaged spring steel that was dug up from the horse pasture. It hardened well in warm brine. The blade itself is approx. 8 1/2 " by 1 1/4" wide, by 1/8" thick. It is a fine blade, slightly up swept, gently tapering to it's end,and is perfect for slicing. I left some of the original hammer marks and polished just enough to make a warm luster, yet still maintaining a hand forged look. The handle is white tail deer antler with steel ferrule and endcap,(also hand forged and shaped.) The tang is a through tang, peened together at the endcap. I added some file work to the back of the blade for decoration and complete with a sheath made from 8-9 oz. vegetable tanned leather. In keeping with the period, rather then shape a belt loop, I've attached a long leather strip that can be tied for a belt look, attached to a possibles bag, or simply held by a sturdy sash. What do you think?:rolleyes:

Thanks Guys, That really helps. Hadn't even thought of the air hardened varieties. The great thing about scrap is that it's just that, scrap. Don't mind testing and I love the practice. Thanks again!

Steve, I read the sticky and I'm still confused. My question is how to proceed with hardening if you don't know the type of steel. Was that what you were talking about in your testing to see if it is necessary to "soak the steel" before quenching? Thanks For Your Patience:D

Please advise:confused: Like many people just starting out, I've been working with salvaged steel that I've been given or found along the way. Since I usually don't even know where the pieces came from or what they were used for, I don't know how to treat them. I think most of what I have came from old farm implements (spring steel or one sort or another). I know its guess work, but how would you folks suggest heat treating? I had one knife blade that wouldn't harden with oil, so I started the process over again, but this time using brine. It's being tempered as we speak. Is there a good order of quenching mediums to try? And will multiple hardening attempts weaken the blade? Please fire away..... I need all the help I can get! Happy Hammerin';)

Thanks for the comments and advice. I agree with you Donnie about the rolled shoulders. That's something I've been struggling with and learning as I go. I'll post more pics as I progress. :D

Just completed this knife this morning. Started out as a piece of mystery spring steel, my brother dug up in the pasture. To be honest it is a mistake knife. My intention was to forge a small saex blade, but somehow I hammered the shape backwards. Rather then toss it away and end up frustrated, I shifted gears and came up with this little blade. It's about 3 1/2" - 4" excluding the tang. I was playing around with a little file work (doesn't show in the pic) on the back and a few other details just for fun. My intention is to polish it up a bit more, but to leave the rough forged look (my favorite). I have a good bit of handle material laying around (burlwood, antler, horn), but haven't decided what to use. Also thought I might like to try to pour the bolster. Anyway..... what do you think? Suggestions? Happy Hammerin'!

:o It's good to know I'm not alone as the new kid on the block! Just this morning I was working on a blade that wanted to bend badly, so I went to the counterbend method (it was a small blade so I just opened my vise, laid the hot blade on its back and wacked it a couple of times to give it a counterbend.) Well of course the blade twisted as I changed its shape, but I was able to lay it on its side and gently tap it back into its true flat form In practice, for a new guy, this is no easy task, but I found that once I got the rhythm all went well. For some of us, without the funds for formal training, or without a local teacher to be found, or just because we've got to get that knife made, we have to learn by the seat of out pants. No shame in that I suppose as long as you're having fun. And p.s. many thanks to you experienced guys who give advice so freely to us in need! Happy Hammerin':D

Hope you guys don't get tired of my newbie questions, but....... It seems that the most challenging part of forging a blade for me is shaping the shoulders; getting them centered (for a through tang knife), or getting them crisp and equal on the outer edges. I prefer forging as much of the blade as possible rather then grinding away. I'd much rather spend my time hammering at the forge, rather then grinding away on a sander. My biggest problem is the outer edge of the shoulder. When I hammer them I end up with edges that are too rounded. Help please. All suggestions welcome.:rolleyes:

Panzer, Give Old World Anvils a call. They'll cut you a piece of 4x4 stock at about a dollar a pound. Mine was 4x4x12 and cost me $50 plus $14 shipping. I was very pleased! Hammer On!:D

You Guys Are The best! Here's the first knife I ever completed. I have posted it elsewhere on this sight, but thought you might enjoy a peek. There's is also a pic of several others I hammered out, but I never completed them as they were just for practice. I also included a shot of another knife I made in the nordic style, but I purchased the blade. Hey guys.... I'm really worried.... this stuff is really addictive!;)LOL