james gonzalez

Hi Wolf Mtn. -A mechanical forging hammer wants to be firmly anchored otherwise it will walk around and you will have to chase it with your hot bar. The anchoring method specified in the original technical sheet that came with this hammer is not necessarily the only way to go. I do not know your shop's floor material so I cannot make a suggestion there. -Talking about wanting a smaller hammer indicates to me that you are having control issues. As SG suggested, a brake is really a MUST on mechanical hammers of this type if you expect any kind of real controlled forging. -as for the three phase problem, If you have single phase 220v available in your shop a rotary or static phase converter could solve the problem for both the hammer and your three phase compressor. three phase motors are real simple and last a long time. they are cheaper to replace or repair when they do go too. -I have owned two Little Giant #50 hammers in the past. I found them a little weak for my needs and I now run a striker#88. With this machine I have managed to controllably forge 1/4 square.

i made the mistake of not specifying the finish on my new cast floor. warning: the "brushed finish" is a pain to sweep. if anyone out there is getting a floor poured make sure to have it finished smooth. ps to mr Hoffman-where do you score the wood shoes?

I commenced business with a stick welder and an anvil. You usually end up working harder when you work for yourself, but for some people there just is no other option from a temperament point of view. my first job was a grate for a drain for $75 I make fine and delicate marvels in iron for the tasteful home owner and I sharpen jack hammer bits.

anyone out there know where one might find a reasonably priced copy of The Blacksmiths Cookbook? thanks

Stick welding fumes have been linked to Parkinsons, I believe. Do not weld without ventilation. A weld fume respirator too.

I use a real old kalamazoo I got out of a scrap pile. It has been desperate for a tuneup for about 5 years now, but works every day with only very occasional attention from a dead blow hammer. A friend runs an "Ellis" saw. I have used it, a good machine, still made in USA, can be used in vertical position, good customer support. I will buy one of these should this kalamazoo ever kick it.

I have forged silicon bronze on many occasions. It does become hot short, crumbling like corn bread at anything over a red heat, so work time is real limited. Brasses I have not played with but they all have a forgeability rating if alloy is known.

Hi Chris. I guess you have alot of information now. You have the right idea, though. Focus, relax and practice. You are pretty much going to have to weld a mile of bead to become a pro, but that does'nt take as long as it seems. Just have fun. Welding eventually becomes the easy part of the job.

assets to using stick welding -startup equipment can be had for <$150.00 (used) -the reach, you can use really long leads. -out of position welding is more manageable. -visibility is often better than with shield gas methods. -fast and dirty. I started my business with a lincoln tombstone and a grinder.

Some folks like to have a vise just about in the middle of the room for big bends etc. I have a four foot radius around mine. If space is an issue, however, I am sure 24" is fine. You can always move it around later.

15 foot tall driveway gate two german shepards metal clad window shutters window grilles two good locks on the door motion sensetive lights and finally, nothing but a room full of obsolete machine tools bolted to the floor. no guns.

thanks for the replies. I figure ultimately the form wants to be spun on a spinner's lathe, but that's not going to happen. The appearance inside the flare does'nt matter, so welding is ok. I like the empirical clay method best at the moment.

A local furniture maker has requested three sheet iron flares similar to the bell of a trombone in dimension. they will be used for a set of lamps. My first thought was to develop a pattern like for a cone, but I ca'nt find a formula. Plan B was to form a cone and try to forge out the flare at the end. That is alot of metal to flow, though. any ideas? thanks

I started business with a tombstone ac only. That is parked in a barn in vermont now. My present setup is lincoln mig, I cant remember the rating, but it is old. got it used for $550 lincoln tig 300/300 looks like it's from the 60's. used $500, a loud but smooth machine. for installs, miller maxstar 140 $1250 new. can tig 1" from finished stair tread. I love it. for remote installs, Burco welder/generator 4-stroke honda, 75pounds. used $600.

Thanks for the info Jose. I have a potential client who is requesting an entire interior railing system of this material. is this within the realms of possibility? I have zero experience with nickel siver working qualities.

has anyone here had any experience welding or brazing this stuff?

you could try sculpt nouveau in california. I know they carry birchwoodcasey and they may know of other options.

The old ones are less efficient and often louder than the new inverter ones that run on software with "fan on demand". For tig, make sure the High Frequency works and it comes with the pedal, torch and cooler. I really like my old lincoln 300

You can try Farmer's Copper in Galveston, TX.

As far as the copper welding goes, I just went down to the welding shop and bought copper filler rod. I am sure I could have used bits of scrap but I like visiting the welding shop. They might have to special order it in your area. I did not particularly like the way it flowed, But the final weld held up well during the raising process despite the fact that I am a fair to middling tig welder at best. I did have to do a little pinhole filling at the end there. Maybe try using a thick sacrificial plate next to where you want to make the weld. You can start the arc there and have time to look around and adjust the heat with the pedal before moving over to the thin stuff.

that was 1/8" sheet. I had to anneal the blank with a big fat propane roofer torch.

I know a blacksmith/sculptor who uses the same stovepipe chimney for his coal forge and wood stove. I am no expert, but I do know you should have the chimney terminate at least 4 feet above the roof. If I recall correctly the Anvilfire website has some good info on forge chimney requirements as does Beautiful Iron. peace

I have not used a northern tool portaband. I have used a Porter Cable, a Milwaukee and a Makita. Milwaukee is the most rugged, if a bit heavy. Porter Cable comes in second. The Makita is a little like a toy, but does work. I highly recommend getting the best you can. I have skimped many a time on tool purchases. Use discretion. If you think you will be using the tool alot, working it hard, get the milwaukee or the portercable. If you think you will be using it to cut a few pieces of tube on the weekends, get the cheapo. my opinion.

With my old Lincoln 300 TIG

This was for a garden fountain. She asked for a rustic look, thankfully. Behind the bowl can be seen the "stake" I welded up. Dimensions are D=38" Depth=12" Flange=1" I had to weld up two half-circles to get the proper sized blank. I decided I dont particularly like the way copper welds. It took me 4 days. The client is happy and it does'nt even leak. peace.