duckcreekforge

I’ll guess German Trenton, with the flats on the feet.

Add an air intake gate and control the air going in. Let the motor run full speed. I think the motor will stay cooler that way.

A fourth way they are advantageous is if they accidentally get bumped or poked toward your stomach. Splayed and having ball finials is recommended for power hammering.

I made a trivet. I used 3/16” brass in countersunk holes to rivet it together, just for something new.

Jennifer, I can see the wheels turning in your head, video, down pat, now about that introduction. It’s all fine, keep up the good work, we know it’ll be great like the flatter video. Steeled? , as in wrought iron, steel cap, nice.

From a lot of years ago. Left was a piece of new cutting edge for the main part. Right was a shortened bucket tooth.

Nice! It appears to be cast but I would not know. Are the slots like dovetails to wedge tools into temporarily?

I got the refractory installed. It was a father/daughter event on the kitchen island. She’s near expert on making slime with Elmer’s glue and Borax (20 mule team, can you believe it?). I asked her if she wanted to help her dad make some slime. She was all excited, ready to help mix, place, and smooth it out. We pulled the duck’s nest and wrapped it with plastic. We cut a cereal box for a cardboard ring and taped to it. We taped it from the bottom edge upward. I wanted refractory to get in under the bottom of duck’s nest, as much as possible. We placed it in and leveled it. It’s about 3/4” thick I suppose. I did not want to go too thick, because it’s very heavy stuff and the rivet forge is by definition “portable”. Anyway, that was 8 days ago during our biggest snowfall this winter. It’s still in the house drying. My wife loves me or tolerates me anyway. I removed the ducks nest, removed the plastic and cardboard, and reinstalled it. I’m hoping it’ll stay indoors for a total of two weeks to be good and dry. Because of the weather, it’ll probably be a couple of months or more before first firing. Here’s a couple of pictures.

Thanks, Jennifer and Mudman these are the first i’ve made. I measured them at .058”, would that be 18 gauge?

I made 4 hook rulers from brass. We sheared 5 from a Walmart brass kick plate for a door. 1/8” chisel marks are close enough for blacksmithing. 320 chisel punches for one double sided ruler. Just about one evenings work per ruler. Gonna keep two and give away two. Don’t know if I want to do that again.

Thank you. Keep up the good work.

Most live demonstrations include jokes and some entertainment, I’ve been to some that are akin to watching paint dry. I know you have too. I suspect videos and live demos could be quite different animals. I’ve been on videos, while working, and given demonstrations, but I’ve never made a full fledged, edited, quality, informative, instructive, video like Jennifer’s.

I’m glad you tolerate constructive criticism, most take it personally or as an attack. Your reply to “Horse” has me curious about the possible differences between your videos and live demonstrations. Would your preference in a live demonstration be to have prewritten large white drawing paper, follow along, signs on an easel or do you have the bubbly banter for audiences? Don’t mean anything by asking, the questions, answers, and style of video have me wondering.

I liked it! I’ve watched several of your videos, they’re all good. I would pay to watch you demonstrate if you were anywhere near. I see you switched hammers at about 17:55, to your wrought iron steel faced hammer. I caught two misspelled words and one homophone: site and cite. I would recommend having someone proofread before committing subtitles to video. Once done they are permanent. Keep up the great work, I wish I could do it! I like the subtitles and not trying to hear a voice, maybe it’s just me? I also like the fast pace.

Got her welded up after giving the mig welder some much needed attention. I think i’ll add a thin layer of refractory cement and call her done.

I made an anvil bick today. 4140 steel. Power hammered from approximately a 1 x 2 x 3” irregular piece. I learned a little bit about the order of things, when to do which part. The black spots are as forged, the shiny area is the rough ground areas. The shank is 7/8”.

I bought this forge a couple of years ago. It came with a 4 legged cast iron pan. I think it also was Canedy Otto. Anyhow, I separated the two and will probably get two forges going and sell one of them, most likely the cast iron one. I needed a nice portable coal forge. This one breaks down. The legs come off and the blower removes with wing nuts (that looks wrong, “winged nuts”?). Here’s some pictures.

I too saw your sign in profile said “newbie”, so you are either new to the sport or just new here. Fine advice has been given so far. I happened to notice on some replaceable screwdriver bits that they were marked S1.

I tried to follow the storyline, but got lost. If other people welded the anvil, top or base, it’s no good but if your son welds it it’s good? If you found a very nice “original” anvil for cheap, would you then sell your “welded” anvil for dirt price? Trying to follow the line of thought.

Not mine, I saw it today, not for sale. Pretty tall huh? 6” jaw width.

Glasses, tee shirt, new boots, if you’ve got a blacksmith apron, you’ve got it covered head to toe.

Daswolf, this is what I call “buggy axle”. It tapers from wider and thinner in the middle to square near the hub ends. Different varying overall dimensions according to weight of the buggy. I made a handled hot cut and a drift out of spring steel.

I went to a farm auction today. I had to sort out the big 1 1/4” anhydrous ammonia spring knife shanks from the scrap metal pile to be able to buy them separately, $10. The Rock Island vise and the wood clamp were $2, together. The, brand new, s tine cultivator shanks were $15. I gave away one shank and one tine before I took the picture.

I made a scrolling, or bending wrench from a piece of buggy axle. It is pretty good steel.

I looked at Frosty’s image suggestions: 1 and 4 are hay stack knives. Several of the others are the typical tiller handled ice saws. I have one like these. The set in the teeth can be hammered in (preferred), or wrested (twisted)(less preferred method). Nicer saws are thicker at the tooth and thinner at the spine, less set is required.