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Found 5 results

  1. I am looking to cut my teeth on making some household tools, starting with a simple flathead screwdriver. I was considering getting some tool steel rods as the material (O1 or S7), but I was just wondering if it's strictly necessary and worth it to use fancy steels. Would mild (1018) work for a screwdriver head just as well? I have gone and searched for information on what material is used in professional (ie, craftsman, ect) and searched the forum to no avail. Just looking for opinions/advice. Thanks for looking! Carpe Frigus Finem!
  2. Hi, I am new here, and only moderately experienced in blade making, and have been curious as to whether you could use screwdrivers to make small carving blades or maybe just very thin ones. I have used them as makeshift hot chisels for decorative forging, with mixed results, I also get used ones for about a few pennies a piece so if it is a usable material I would like to utilize it. Thanks for your time and responses!
  3. I forged this so-called "perfect handle" screwdriver for a tool swap on lumberjocks. I'm just starting to learn some blacksmithing to augment my woodworking, so it's not super clean but I'm proud of it. The blade is O1 steel that started as 3/4" diameter drill rod. I heat treated it myself in the forge and my kitchen oven. The scales are dyed maple burl. Finished with BLO and renaissance wax.
  4. Hi, my version of a blueprint. Not much but it's mine. Pic runs the gamut from coilspring (on the horn) to finished product. (left to right). Yes you've seen the handled one before. http://www.iforgeiron.com/gallery/image/38308-screwdriver-bp/ Take coilspring and cut off a length. Anneal, or if you're feeling really antsy, normalize, but let's face it. Used coil spring tends to crack, so I'd anneal first, and you'll still lose a few. Square it off, fuller down to about 1/4 to 3/8 inch. Put a chisel point on one end, thin profile works better. Cut to desired length. I like about 7 inches or so, but it'll work pretty much between 4 to 9 inches. put a tang on the other end. Long skinny square taper for burnt in, like mine. If ya want rivetted, well flatten it and go with that. Now the fun part. Put desired twists in. I like a reverse near the tip, and one wide spaced long twist above it. But variety is the spice of life..... For phillips heads, you can forge or grind in a triangle tip. Straighten as needed with a wooden mallet on a stump. Harden the business end and temper. IMPORTANT! You can go from straw to blue, but if you don't harden, it'll round out over time and start to slip unless reground. Clean on the wire wheel. Make a handle as desired, predrill with a small hole and heat the tang, and push into the hole. It might take two or three times, but get it straight! You don't get a second chance. I haven't tried it with horn, but I bet it would look awesome. In wood, ya can always burn in your touchmark or logo. Finish as desired, I like linseed oil. Fun, classes up your tools a bit, and doesn't take long at all. It would probably be a good project for beginners too. Good luck!
  5. A little how to in pictures. From the coilspring on the horn, then left to right.
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