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I Forge Iron

Dece

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About Dece

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    Hundred, Va, US

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  1. A good idea and I actually have the walls built and sitting in the garage. The shop is small enough(10x21') that putting up one of the walls(each is a 10' wall panel) affects the airflow enough I'm not comfortable running the forge. I would probably build temporary half walls for the 10x10' half that doesn't have the forge if it wasn't storing several 4' long, 3' diameter, white oak logs(seasoned on the tree, mostly just keeping them up off the ground and out of most of the rain). I tried canvas walls there and putting it up and down to move around those logs was enough of a pain. I reall
  2. Unrealistically, those gone by this year to return for one last day. Realistically 6' of Class A DuraVent so I can get a chimney put in so I can put walls on the shop.
  3. If that was to me, they in fact do operate as bottle openers. I leave the stem heavy, and generally oval for leverage across the cap. The one of the right doesn't work as well as the other three but I tested each out after they cooled.
  4. Wasn't today, but Saturday. 4 keychains as a thank you to some tree removal folks, and also finished a few candle stick holders for holding memorial candles which I forgot to take a picture of before mailing them and some hand dipped candles off..
  5. If you need ALOT(or do like I did and get a bunch of people together to chip in) some salvage companies will sell you a pallet of them. We paid 1.192$ for 3.100#(minimum order) and that included the freight shipping from Washington state to me on the east coast. Just had to have a business address for delivery and a forklift(110$ rental) to unload it. That was a couple years ago but if you want I can try to locate the contact info and PM you it. As it is I ended up getting just shy of thousand spikes for just over 300$.
  6. Thomas: I'll look around for a copy once I finish going through Gerard's Herbal(Inter library loan on some of these get kind of limited), although just found a used copy of Cathedral, forge and waterwheel and picked it up, its next on my reading list. I just volunteer when I have the time but on some of the events where I am there at a mealtime it would be nice to sit out with the meal. The timeframe is 1590s-1650s in Virginia/North Carolina, so any resources like iron would actually have been exported and finished goods imported. The blacksmith mostly did repairs or anything that was no
  7. Thanks for the info on fruit blades, did not think of the acids in the foods. Mostly I was worried about visible damage from use to the flatware or the wooden plate/bowl I have/am making(initial bowl I was trying to finish up and in my haste put a gouge straight through it trying to take off too much in one go and having to remake it). Appreciate the information. Does not need to be completely accurate, as mostly it is so that while volunteering, if a visitor sees it, it does not look too out of time. I.E. need to look like it could belong. Heck the anvil in the smithy there
  8. I have tried searching the forums for the last few hours(with google and site:iforgeiron.com) but have not been able to find answer to the question of using mild steel for a set of flatware, using a food grade oil or wax finish(most of that time got lost in reading distractions in the bladesmithing forum). I am aware this would not be ideal, and that is most likely a large understatement, but it is what I currently have on hand and with my day job it is difficult to get to the local steel supply(Monday-Friday 9a-4p hours, I actually have to normally take a day off to make a run). The most
  9. First day at the forge in a bit over a month. Hadn't felt like doing anything since making some flowers for a friend's funeral but finally forced myself to do something. Made a new set of hold fasts, one for each anvil, and drive hooks to hang them up on. Not much done but at least it is something to get going again, and the first items I have been pleased with in a long time, although they could be a bit more uniform. Luckily they work great compared to the old ones I made when I started.
  10. Have not posted in a long while and frankly not been able to do much forging as of late(ended up being able to get a lot of equipment, and as such needed to build a place to house it, and thanks to the weather took a few months) but made the time to make these steel lilies for a friend's funeral. Ended up having to shim the petals with copper wire due to not being able to get the stem riveted on tight. Not sure where I messed up on that but first time trying to make flowers to begin with. Still, learned a lot doing them.
  11. Thanks for all the help with the ID on this anvil. Right now only things I can see stamped on the anvil is the first T and the O N of the logo on one side and a 3 stamped on the other side about same height as the logo. This weekend Ill be getting a wire wheel that fits the angle grinder and trying to clean up enough to see any other marks. Really am amazed and grateful of the help and support of folks on this forum in the couple threads I've posted and questions I have asked.
  12. Ok, cleaned it up a bit more. Sadly only wire wheel I have is for cleaning up the cannons and not something I can really attach to the angle grinder, will have to pickup one after work tomorrow. Here are 3 shots of the underside.
  13. It has a roughly 1 inch square hole in the center of the underside of the base
  14. Thank you very much. I wish I had taken some pictures when I first got it before getting it cleaned up to the state those pictures are. Could not tell how bad the pitting or chipping on it was. Is there a difference between a Trenton and German Trenton? Doesn't matter too much if once I can get the time to finally clean it up and on a stand it'll most likely be the more portable of the two(minus my railroad track and 50lb square block of steel anvils) and more used.
  15. Picked this up awhile ago from an antique place. Not the best condition and was covered in a lot more rust and dirt then shown here(used hand sanding to get a lot of it off and feel a bit of an idiot for doing so now), got a ringing off of it with a hammer but I could not tell how pitted it was when buying, and was not allowed to "damage the patina", but after haggling a bit price was only about double what I could get for it in scrap price at the time(about 0.90/lb) and figured it was worth the risk. I was wondering if anyone has an idea what type of anvil it is. And if it looks to be in dece
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