VolcanoForge

I guess I don't really understand the reason to fret over dings. I have pretty soft Arm & Hammer that has quite a few and it has no effect on the work. I would definitely consider repairing large gouges or missing face but dings don't matter. It will just get another the first time you miss your work.

They are very good anvils. I wouldn't repair it. It looks clean, has good edges. Peter Wrights typically are swayed. Not sure on the patent mark.

Its a Peter Wright. Not sure on the date but I think the ledges on the feet make it after 1860.

Yeah Its pretty much the same wire. Not sure how cost effective it would be since that wire is over $200.00 a spool.

I don't think its anything you did wrong in forging. If it was from forging I don't think it would follow the contour of the piece so perfectly. A lot of the hot roll flat bar I use comes with cracks like that. Or they come twisted, out of square/round etc. I get it cheap so I just deal with it.

The "U" could be a "C" I'm pretty sure that the vise is a Columbian.

Wow I need to start polishing up old tongs. I guess these people don't realize you can go to an antique store and get them $5-$10 each?

I think it was a fair price at 140. I doubt that thing weighed more than 120 and was in pretty rough shape.

Definitely a PW

If it is truly a ASO I would use it as yard art instead of pawning in off on someone else.

Vulcans have a steel top plate that extends through the horn. If it was a Vulcan It wouldn't have the parting line though the middle of the horn. Unfortunately looks like Its a ASO.

1 1/4" square tube .120 wall slid over and staked on would probably work well.

Nice score! Stones are in great shape.

To be honest I don't know much about the different schools. I went to the community college because it was cheap and I could still live at home. I think the tuition only cost a couple hundred dollars a semester at the time (10 years ago). At one point in my senior year I had signed up to go to Wyotech automotive school. Very glad I didn't as all the dealerships around here have closed down since then. I probably would still be paying the student loan off for the trade school. I think it was close to 20 grand.

After graduating high school and not really knowing what I wanted to do I ended up at the community college taking courses in machine shop. They had a heat treat room that was pretty well equipped. It had several forges and anvils which I had never been exposed to before. I think that it was probably the best choice I could have made. I learned to run machines, manual & CNC, as well as grind, weld, auto cad. I was there for about two years and took a number of other courses as well, electrical, layout, sheet metal, hydraulics, welding...it gave me a good foundation, although I never did get the machining cert. I also have never worked in a machine shop though most of my employers have had at least a mill and lathe. Without my schooling I would probably still be working for the man at a dead end job. I say if you can afford to go to school do it. At least a couple of courses. Another cool thing about vocational classes is that you can usually work for as long as the instructor is there. On days that I didn't need to go to work after class I would put in 12 hours at school making tools and other home projects. You can really get a lot out of it if you have good experienced instructors.

Good video. Thanks for sharing. I like those tongs at the end. His eyes must hurt at the end of the day from all that arc flash.

McMaster-carr sells it. Actually pretty cheap. http://www.mcmaster.com/#flat-drive-belts/=i4zvc2

You can probably find one pretty quick on craigs list. I was looking for a 2" x 72" and stumbled upon a 4" x 108" that came out of a glass shop. Ended up getting it and about 30 new belts for $200.00. Works fine and much cheaper than buying or building a new one. Good thing about building one though is that you can make it to fit your needs.

I'd be all over that for the price, gas hog or not. Retail on that is a little over 4k without the freight. Forgot to add...I'm pretty sure that's the double width model. Firebox should be about 13 1/2" X 8 3/4" X 7"

It looks perfect. Great job!

Yeah was probably zinc. It turns to yellow dust when burned.

Remember that most antique shops will give 10% off just for asking.

Beautiful work!

I've got the same one except my is badged by Jet. I like the hold down on yours much better then mine. The Jet has a folded piece of 1/8" for the hold down with very little adjustment. Pretty durable tools. I use mine daily and have yet to repair/replace anything. Mine is about 5 yrs old. If I remember correctly they are rated 3/16 plate/bar and 1/2" round. Definitely need strong mounts when going to capacity. I have a receiver tube in my layout table that it slips in. Just be ready for the break when shearing though 1/2". Takes quite a bit of force. I've almost ended up on my back.....

I'm so jealous. Very nice piece of equipment!