dperk

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About dperk

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    N.E. Ohio

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  1. I've been to WRABA before. They are a good group. We are also very lucky to have Sofa in Ohio. Remember to pencil in the dates in September for Quadstate 2017! (they haven't picked them yet - probably around 22nd) Awesome event! http://sofablacksmiths.org/
  2. Absolutely! I'm just east of you a bit in N. Royalton.
  3. Where are you located? If you're near me, I'll give you a copy of Backyard Blacksmith (I have 2 copies). I also have a Brake drum forge that I need get rid of! I'm just south of Cleveland.
  4. I have been using Dennis coal and it's very nice. I bought bags from him while at Quadstate. I have one of his business cards: Dennis Coal and Stove Wauseon, Ohio 419-335-4665 419-335-0712 (he lists both numbers on his card)
  5. I have a standard 250# and it's made in 1918.
  6. Frosty and Thor, your comments helped me figure it out! I cut off the handle first: It's so clean and even has the factory paint on it! Then I snipped off the rest of the packaging wire ties and tried to mound the bracket. It was the same gap as the width of the cast "air duct" where the blower sits. I tried to mount it but it didn't seem right at all. Then I noticed the bowl clamped to the cast iron air ducting. It had little tabs.... rest was easy: It was a little heavy to do with one person, but I managed: Thanks everyone for looking and for the comments! I'm glad I could share these pictures and my excitement with someone! -darren
  7. Some of you probably saw my post a few days ago about looking for info on this forge. That was before I bought it. I really wanted more of a cast iron table forge instead of a rivet forge, but I couldn't pass this one up. So I scrounged up enough money to buy this 'new in the box buffalo forge'. I don't have any reason to doubt the claim of this being new and unused. It is a little rusty from sitting for all those years. Yes, I know I need to assemble it and light a fire, and soon I will... I can say this is the best condition blower I have ever turned! :) This picture was prior to owning it, so I could identify and try to research it: This is when I moved it all home. I believe this is the original crate from the factory (not sure how it originally sat in there)... Now, that I cleaned out the debris out of the blower from the mice and chipmunks, I'll have to untie the factory wire ties and put it together. If anyone knows exactly how the blower support attaches to the forge bottom, please let me know. (picture would help). I believe the support arm in this last picture just bolts with a clamping action to the leg uprights? Unless I'm missing a part? Thanks for looking!
  8. Hello, I'm looking for any information I can find about this forge and blower. The forge is a deep stamped steel pan. I assume it's to be clayed? The blower hangs off it. I'm familiar with a Champion 400, but not this buffalo 300? Are these any good? The whole setup looks like it would be good for portable use. If anyone has any information they could send my way, I'd appreciate it!
  9. I first have to say thanks to Stewart(thesmith) for giving me a great deal on this anvil, arranging all the shipping, and being a really great person to deal with! Here is the anvil as I brought it back from FedEx freight, yes that is a car: Here is how I got it out of my car: Nice flat and big work area: Not a huge fan of the paint: Worked all day on it: (disregard the mess, the barn is in transition right now :) ) Ready to go, already used it tonight :) more pictures in the GALLERY Thanks again Stewart, just what I needed!
  10. This will be my first trip down there. Is it worth going on Friday, or do most people come down Saturday? I plan to be there Friday AM and shopping for a nicer anvil than what I currently have.... maybe a forge too ... and some tongs :D
  11. I read this article when I started just recently: http://bepreparedtosurvive.com/Make%20Your%20Own%20Leather%20Knife%20Sheaths.htm
  12. Excellent feedback! I like the clay idea. I will try to get some clay like substance from the craft store. As for the round bar, I just wanted to use it for fun. I like the idea of taking something that doesn't resemble a knife and shape it into one. I'm sure I'll mostly use flat stock, but I wanted to try round and learn what finished size I can get out of it. I have noticed how much you loose to scale and grinding and that's why I realized my 1/8" stock was way to thin. I do have a nice 2x72 grinder to work with and adding more tools as I can. I'm very happy I found this site. Once I saw a forging demo, I was drawn to it. So far I haven't forged a decent knife, but I have made some nice leafs and hooks for the house. Everyone on this site is great, and I sincerely appreciate the responses! Thanks! -darren
  13. Thanks for the quick reply guys! I have been using scraps from my stock removal work to learn on, and it was mostly 1/8". I'm finding out that it just too thin to work with and I think it's making it more difficult. I have some 1/4" by 1" now and I think I'll get some more of that and some 1/4" by 1.5". I also have some 3/4" round now, so I'll add some 5/8" also. I will stay away from 1" round for now since I do not have any power hammer or press.
  14. I'm still learning and I'd probably have a better handle on this if I had more experience, but since I dont: What size stock should I be buying? I'm making knives no more than 1.5" tall, mostly smaller. I'm interested in buying flat and round stock. I have already bought some 1/4" by 1" flat and some round that is 3/4". Are there any guides out there that show what you should expect size wise from a 3/4 round compared to a 1" round? I'm just looking for suggestions or what you guys/gals do (or order most often). Thanks! -darren