Het

Finished this up this morning. Sputtered for a minute, and I started adjusting the air/fuel mix via the gate valve and needle valve. Sounds good, and gets very hot. A few of the holes don't seem to have a steady flame on one end. I don't know if maybe there's a piece of straw in the hole(s) or what. Still, I'm quite ecstatic that it's working. The experience sure helped my welds.

I bought a 3" rubber end cap, and a 3" to 1 1/2" reducer. I cut a half inch wide strip of the end cap out, then put it around the 2 1/2" opening of my blower, then put the 3" top 1 1/2" reducer over it. Tight as a bug in a rug. Apparently a releasing agent is not needed. took the screws of my form out, and the wood pieces popped off with very little effort. I got mine at Menards

Made some progress. Hard to find time to work on it at the end of our work season, but had a few hours yesterday. I got the refractory in a few nights ago, welded it together, and got some legs on it that I made. It's really stable. Still have the reflective stuff to put on the inside. I made a 2 1/2" x 6" burner head. I'm going to try 1 1/2" pipe as the delivery system for air and fuel. I saw a video on youtube, (I know), where a guy used 1 1/4" pipe with good results. The downside is, I was in a rush, and forgot to use a release agent on the wood before I put the mizzou in. We'll see how that works out for me. Roscoe and Ginger couldn't care any less.

Thank you. These still haven't been completely finished. I'm usually out of town for two weeks at a time. I have winters off, usually November 1st to May 1st, so I'll soon have plenty of time to finish these and hopefully make many more. These were made from leaf springs. Over the last six months, I have acquired a pile of leaf springs, and pieces of leaf spring, as well as a bunch of coil springs. I heated them up to non magnetic, then quenched them in some motor oil, which I've recently read is a no-go. I'll be buying a five gallon jug of canola oil in the next day or so. I've recently built a beveling jig, and I have maybe two weeks left of work, so these two should be finished soon.

My first and second knives I've made. A little rough, but a good learning experience. Looking forward to many more. #2

Alrighty, then. Got some work done on it today. Got some holes cut, and the tank cut. Got the Kaowool installed, and the ends coated with Kastolite. Also got the legs/feet made. Looking forward to working on it again. I'll give it a few days for the refractory to set up. Seems pretty hard already, but it will get at least five days to set while I work.

Hello, all. New member, and kinda new to forging guy here. I have a job where I work six months on, six off, My six month 'vacation' is just about here. I have been planning a propane tank forge build for a while. I had planned on using the T burner plans for my heat delivery, but started looking more and more into the ribbon burners. I have the ceramic blanket, refractory, and IR paint, most of which I acquired from Wayne Coe. I also ordered the other refractory needed for the ribbon burner head. I also bought the blower Wayne recommended from a certain blacksmith supply company. I saw on Wayne's website that he recommends a six inch burner for the 20# tank. Here are my questions, (for now). Does the burner have to be three inches wide to perform at it's peak? Could you make the burner head, say, 2 1/2", or 2" wide? Also, to get the air from the blower to the forge, could you use 1 1/4" or 1 1/2" pipe?

I'm starting a 20# propane tank forge build, and remembered that I had two 10# tanks left from my camping days. Seems like it would be perfect for blade making. I was thinking about building a forge with it, and using the T burner in the half inch configuration, and one burner instead of two. Has anyone tried the 10# tank build? I see people discussing freon tanks, but I'm not familiar with those. I'm using one of those ebay/Russian forges now. I'm really enjoying the whole process. Here are a few pics of the forge I'm using now, as well as my first knife build.