Unforgivun

I've only got the small 1/2" burner taken care of so far, don't take that advice as tried and true because I do NOT know what I'm talkin about But I've read enough good reviews on Zoellers to think that he does.

If its a small forge, you could make a 2nd burner... The cost of the burner itself isn't all that much. Then when you got around to building a 250 cu/in forge you would already have the burner. Zoeller's mini-sidearm burner Smaller uses 1/2" diameter pipe and a 0.025 mig tip. Thats pretty well the only difference.

Thomas this is the greatest thing I have seen today. Like I said, I consider us both to be fairly strong and it was rough getting that thing into the back of the truck.. A simple 2x12 would have been amazing to just slowly walk it up or like you said, use a come along. Its just such an awkward shape to try to lift.

Well, being that it was dark when we got it, in the light today you can make out a 3 for the first number, and an 11 for the last... its either a 2 or a 3 in the middle, so its either 403 (by my calculations) or 431 Being marked in this fashion makes me think PW as well. Plus the profile looks almost Identical to one on ebay right now that weighs 385lbs.

So this morning I found an add on craiglist that simply described this anvil as a "large anvil" I do not know the weight of this anvil just yet, but I do know that it took 2 of us and it was everything we could do to get it into the back of the truck. The pictures do not do it justice, the edges are in extremely good shape, very little use. My mad money has long since run out, so that meant I had to call my brother in law. Thats a 10.5 4E shoe on top of it. The anvil measures 37.5" from the tip of the horn to the heal. 2" hardy hole. Face is 5.5" across Finding a deal on craiglist - Time Exceptionally large and great conditioned anvil - $250 Being so happy about that anvil you forgot your wife was UNHAPPY - Priceless :)

I haven't looked into the reduction ratio's at this point, but would it be feasible to use old bike sprockets instead of planety gears? Again, I haven't looked at the tooth numbers to see if the ratio would be effective, but I can't imaging it would be too bad using 2 reductions. I think most base sprockets are 40-50 tooth and small drive spockets are as low as 15-18. Some "Tensioners" used on old tandems or converting gas models are as low as 8 tooth (8-12 normally).

Old South, if you're having trouble uploading or posting the pic here, try uploading it into a free photobucket account and then copy and paste the IMG code into the forum, it will look like code on your screen, but once its previewed/posted the image will show up. Blake

2" Pipe Ric, worked on 1 15/16" mandrel

Could bolt a leather strap to one side, put a magnet on the other end of the strap where you can flip it over the hotcut when not in use

Mark, if you're in the Bessemer area you should look up the Alabama Forge Council. WWW.AlaForge.org

There is also Moore Coal Company Moore Coal Company, Inc. 129 North 4th Street Bessemer, AL 35020 Phone: (205) 424-2705 Fax: (205) 424-2707 It is just lump, so you'll have to do some sizing, but it cokes well. We seem to get less clinker in it than we do from the coal we use at the forge council.

Some pool supply stores would have it for water adjustments. other sources would include citrus juice. brewery shops some hardware stores Pharmacy - we keep citric acid in our pharmacy, but worst case scenario you might have to settle for vitamin C (ascorbic acid) The chemical difference is so slight that it will not matter in terms of normalizing (citric acid has 1 extra molecule of oxygen) It is exceptionally cheap at our pool supply store.

I need to take a few updated photos. Since those pictures were taken (at that time the forge had only been fired up probably 4 or 5 times) there has been the addition of braces on the bottom on the legs and a few other adjustments. The firepot isn't quite level with the table but it realy isn't that high off of the table either. It probably only has about a 1/4" lip.

Welcome to IFI jmc. I like the forge! I honestly probably would never have tried to build one in a galvanized tub, but like all the others have said it certainly does appear to be well insulated. When do we get to see the first forgings?

Flipping that camera to "macro" mode will help the quality on up close pictures. Normally this mode is indicated with a picture of a flower.

Started life as anchor plate to anchor walls to concrete

Try photobucket for uploads and then just copy and paste the IMG code link

http://www.anvilbrand.com/p-678-jhm-competitor-250-lb-anvil.aspx Not the typical narrow waist of the JHM style anvils, its not over the 300# mark though, so don't know just HOW big you're after.

Opiy there are anvils to be had in Alabama. When you see them on craigslist you have to act fast as people WILL drive from GA, MS, TN etc to get them. Dunno about $400. for that one, I MIGHT go to $250 if I didn't have an anvil but not with a 2 hour drive involved. Find a forge group. Chances are someone there will have a better anvil for a better deal. A guy in our group sold a 132lb Haybudden in relatively nice shape for $300 the other day. They're out there, trust me. In the mean time go to the scrapyard and pickup a large chunk of steel. Find an old piece of rail etc. Anything heavy will work to start. It's not ideal, but it works until something else comes along. One word of advice, when going from that makeshift anvil to something like a haybudden or peterwright, be prepared for your first hammer "miss" to be thrown almost into your face. Dunno what this is, but would be worth an email http://pensacola.craigslist.org/atq/2749141794.html

well Mike, I can't speak for anyone else but I for one am Impressed. I have a few tiger lily in my garden that bloom in spring and have always found them to be just very pretty and naturally elegant. Nice work so far. Can't wait to see the finished product. Just don't show my wife, she'll want one. :)

We used to do this to the white canvas tents when we did the Civil War re-enacting. It does make the material a little stiffer than normal but nothing I would think would be uncomfortable. Like so many others have said, you can buy webbing (not nylon) and strapping at many craft and hobby stores. You can even buy "push snap" buttons like are used around the edge of cheap truck tonneau covers to do like Thomas said and make a cloth upper and leather lower. Then you could even "snap" them together or apart when you didn't need the top. I like the idea of the split apron, and thanks for reminding me of the borax soak.

Probably so The other one (5") still needs welded up but is on a folding stand for extra portability

I was at the last one there, should be at the work day next Sunday as well.

http://www.iforgeiro...rst-convention/ Link to the other thread I posted on this, dunno why I didn't just post it here. I'll post the pics here too though Forge pavilion where Steve Parker held tong and die demos Iron in the hat/auction. I can't remember the auctioneers name (Mike might) but he did an excellent job. Mike holding up some of his booty from the weekend.

Here is that post vise now