metalliferous

Maybe we should also have a "how many fuels do you use" poll as well.

Definitely was a file, definitely can be anything.

Congratulations on the forge, Arbalist. That looks like a good setup.

Try out a few pieces. I've run across some old iron that'll split like crazy unless you work it at a white heat. Of course, other pieces do just fine. I usually try to test any new source of iron (or steel), and I've had some things go to pieces on me because I didn't.

I'd like to nominate myself, but I'll be 19 in February, so I might be a little older than you want.

Isn't the zinc from galvanization technically a sacrificial anode itself?

Glenn, that was the very pic I was looking for. Thanks to everyone for looking.

I know how to make split crosses, I've made several. I was wondering if anyone knew the whereabouts of a picture of one made out of square tubing. I thought I remembered one on here, but I can't find it.

I'm contemplating making an up-sized sawn cross using square tubing instead of solid stock. I think I remember seeing something along those lines in the IFI gallery, but when I went back recently to make sure, I couldn't find it. Anyone here know what I'm talking about?

Depending on the heat treatment, a steel can become harder and more brittle or softer and more ductile. With 1018, however, since it is a mild steel, you'll probably see very little difference with any heat treatment. I'd probably just normalize it to relieve any residual stress from machining and let it go.

A36 is a mild steel with around .3% carbon.

I have a swage with different sized spoon molds, but for small stuff I prefer just to hammer the steel down onto scrap wood.

The carburization/decarburization that happens during normal forging (in coal or gas) is usually far too shallow to really affect the end product. It might affect a blade's edge, but really any grinding should remove it.

To normalize most steels, heat them to a little above their hardening temperature and let them air cool. This relieves internal stresses, refines the grain somewhat, and makes the steel the toughest it'll be.

j-hooks. They give a good warm up for most of the basic forging techniques, especially if you upset the corner for a right angle.

That's adding serious insult to serious injury.

Some bandsaw blades (though usually more of the metal cutting persuasion) have odd coatings on them you'll have to remove somehow before welding.

I was wondering if anyone else here has run across this site. Its purpose is to allow people to post how-tos on the internet on nearly any topic. There's a pretty strong interest on smithing in it, too. Most of the smithing related instructables are pretty elementary, but that's what appeals to Instructables' audience- introductory lessons to many hobbies/interests. If you check it out, make sure to look in the group "the Forge." You might see a familiar name. the Forge

If by cromic acid you mean chromic acid, then yes it might work, but you probably shouldn't use it. Anything involving chromates is highly toxic to humans and can produce toxic fumes. In any case, it's not in kidsmith territory (or, for that matter, in most young adultsmith territory either).

If it's the Complete Modern Blacksmith by Weygers, then no, I don't think it provides an appropriate guide for heat treating H13. Alloy steels, especially hot work ones like H13, require sometimes much different treatment. Here's what I got from azom.com regarding h13 heat treatment:

It sounds like you've got either chestnut oaks or bur oaks, in case you want to incorporate a species name.

With 1/2" square, I wouldn't count on plywood; if you're going to use a jig, it'll have to be steel. If you're going to freehand it you might try working over the horn or maybe with some bending forks.

nice anvil. Try the measures you're talking about, and if they don't work, try heavy plastic or rubber underneath the anvil. With all that, something is bound to work.

it's worked pretty well when I've tried it