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I Forge Iron

tiptop

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About tiptop

  • Rank
    Junior Member

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  • Website URL
    http://imageevent.com/aatiptop

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  • Location
    Newport, Oregon
  • Interests
    Machine shop, Blacksmith, woodworker
  • Occupation
    retirerd
  1. ptree Sorry for the slow response. I am not getting emails when threads are posted I am writing in. I think I need to change my login info to let me know of this. Could be its hard to say. Tomorrow I will take a picture of my B&S horizontal and you can tell me if it is something like that. It sounds like it is. I may not have one with drive dogs but should have something that can have them added to the back. On your zirk question, they used to have oil pumps that mated up with zirk fittings. Don't use grease, to thick and holds swarf. Do a search for hand operated oil pumps for zirks. Oi
  2. Looks like it needs a little dental work, but not bad for its age. I wonder if he has the change gears for it? Jay
  3. Ptree, Do you still have the table and the feed off? Take some pictures of the gears with a tape measure next to them. I have boxes of old gears out in the shop from all sorts of machines, I have been collecting and restoring these for thirty years. Any way I may have something that will work. I would also like to see some more pictures of your universal miller if you don't mind posting some. Email the gear pics to me at this, "[email protected]", that way you can send bigger pictures and I will look to see what I have. Take care, Jay
  4. ptree, Post this over on the HSM board there are a couple of folks that have mills like yours and also a wealth of information on how to repair your gear. Here is a link to the board. General - The Home Shop Machinist & Machinist's Workshop BBS You will have to join if you are not already a member but this site is the best for home shop types with problems. Good luck on the repair, you are right, this piece of iron needs to be saved. Jay
  5. Thanks all for the replies. It sounds to me as though I need to go talk to my plumber friend instead of my Natural gas friend. It sounds like it could work from what I am hearing here. I think the next hurdle will be in delivery of the gas. The forge is about 90 feet from the meter or where he would need to connect. My propane tanks are twenty pounders, one on line and one in reserve. I won't be doing anything for a while, so I'll collect some more info and post what I find out. I also have a crucible furnace that I run for small batches of aluminum castings. So I would want to change that ove
  6. Thanks Steve and Jack, I had high hopes of it being of use. I put a 22' X 24' extension on my shop to move my blacksmith items, machinists tools and fabrication stuff into. While I was at it I ran four sticks of 2" conduit to the house so I could run utilities back and forth between the two. So Natural gas was one of my choices, for heat, as I put pex in the floor and I thought I could run the forge off of it also as it is cheaper than chasing down propane. In a couple of other posts the guys were talking BTU's required for a forge, I never really stopped to figure out that math, I just buil
  7. Hi All, First post since joining and a question. I am running a double burner forge on propane. It has the Ron Reil type burners. I built this forge three or so years ago and don't recall orafice size, maybe .035"; Any how I want to change from propane to natural gas and have heard I will need to change the jets. Does any one here know if they need to be smaller or larger and maybe by how much? Also, how does natural gas work? Is it as good as propane, better or worse? Thanks for your time,Jay
  8. Looked to me as you have some major gear damage to deal with also. Good luck on the DP, those old drill press' are nice when working properly. The picture before the drill chuck looks like a boring head, nice attachment for the old girl. Jay
  9. I love shapers also. About the only tools I like more are my planers. The shaper is better suited to the job you did though. I used to have a S.B. shaper also. I really liked it, but I sold it so I could get a larger one. Now I have a 16" G.&E. shaper. The rigidity of the larger shapers makes them worth it if you have the room for one.
  10. ptre, Does it have a universal table? It is kind of hard to tell from the pictures, but almost looks to. What is the spindle taper, B&S 7 or 9? I don't have any extra B&S arbors, but I got a bunch of NMTB 25 and NMTB 35. Do you have an overarm for it? It almost looks like you spindle speed is going to be to fast with those pulley sizes. What RPM is the motor? Can you post a pic of the other side of your dividing head? Nice looking mill bud, very similar to my B&S #2 that runs on lineshaft. Jay
  11. Andy, Don't be surprised if it is a #4MT. Usually on DP's of that size they had back gear and the MT is larger than expected because of the torque involved. I'm with the rest of em though post some pictures and tell us the make and model. Jay
  12. It seems to me now that you mention explain it, I have heard of short tapers. I can't remember where, I thought it was in reference of a brit lathe though. I didn't realize SB used them. I have had three SB's and all were morse. This is interesting, Jay
  13. Bob I was in a hurry didn't notice you were showing it in action with a tube getting cut. It is a nice job. I got lucky on the last lathe I bought. I almost got more tooling than lathe. Take care Jay
  14. Bob, Usually a live bull nose is made for the tail stock. Did you change the taper on it after you were done? Jay
  15. John Geary, Better question is, if you are interested in selling, then post a location. Yes I also would be interested if they are within a thousand miles of me, the price is right and they are not junk. Please tell where first. Jay
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