Ernesto Brown Posted March 28, 2009 Share Posted March 28, 2009 Hello All, My father and I just picked up a very heavy Champion drill press. It is in great shape but needs to be cleaned and greased. We have a bunch of questions: 1. The body of the press is fairly evenly covered with grime. We are planning on cleaning all gears and regreasing them but we are worried about cleaning the frame too much and then having rust problems. Any thoughts? 2. When we were hoisting the press into the truck (the electric hoist is awesome), we unfortunately snapped half of one of the handles off. Is there any way to weld this back together (we have not learned how to weld yet and were told that you cannot weld forged steel)? 3. It looks like the main ball bearing gasket is loose and possibly even coming apart. But, the gear shaft spins smoothly. We are planning on just cleaning that lightly and packing it with grease. Any other thoughts? 4. Finally, this press is really old (not sure how old; cannot find a date) and is now powered with a separate motor that drives the belts. The belts are torn. Where can I find new belts that are big enough to run the drill or do I need to make them from belt leather (that is my dad's idea)? Thanks for your thoughts. Ernesto Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mike-hr Posted March 28, 2009 Share Posted March 28, 2009 I would give it a good scrubdown once, if for nothing else to check for cracks and defects. if you got it clean enough, you could paint it, if not I bet it will get oily again real fast with use, and not rust. If the handle is cast iron, you can still re-attach it, with brazing or nickle rod. show us a picture of the broken handle. check with industrial supply places and get a composit belt that's laced on the ends Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted March 28, 2009 Share Posted March 28, 2009 Too bad you unloaded it already, I would've sprayed it down with degreaser and ahuled it to a car wash for a high pressure wash. Afterwords a spraydown with something like LPS3 or Marvel Mystery oil would keep the rust off. Of course the car wash folk don't much like you washing greasy stuff in their stalls so staying up late might've been called for. Not that it makes any sense to reload it to do this now but you never know when you might run into something else that could use a good hosing before bringing it home. Once you get it cleaned up look for model numbers, these will find you information searching on Google Patents. If you can't find belts that fit there are universal belts that can be made to fit. They're belts made kind of like a chain so you can adjust the length by adding or removing links. Lastly, pictures, send pictures! We love pictures. Frosty Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mike-hr Posted March 28, 2009 Share Posted March 28, 2009 When you get this animal cleaned up, look around all the moving parts for tiny drilled holes that seem to serve no purpose. These are oil ports, dig out all the schmung with a dentist tool or piece of wire, and, you guessed it, oil them before use... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ernesto Brown Posted March 28, 2009 Author Share Posted March 28, 2009 Good Morning, Thank you all for the advice. We are off to the dump and then Home Depot to get some degreaser. We have a power washer and will hoist the press onto a dolly to get it out of the shop. Pictures will follow (although it looks like rain today so the pictures might have to wait). Thank you again. Michael (Ernesto's dad) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ernesto Brown Posted March 28, 2009 Author Share Posted March 28, 2009 Ok. We have power washed the press and taken pictures. Problem is that we are not savy enough to figure out how to upload the photos from iPhoto. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
j.w.s. Posted March 28, 2009 Share Posted March 28, 2009 Ok. We have power washed the press and taken pictures. Problem is that we are not savy enough to figure out how to upload the photos from iPhoto. Very easy, my friend. Minimize your other windows (that little minus button on the top left if you don't know). Open iphoto, make sure it doesn't fill the whole screen. (This can be adjusted with the little tab at the bottom of the window that looks like a bunch of little lines making a triangle) Then just click on the photo that you want to send us and drag it to the desktop. Release the mouse button and there you have it! Your picture should be sent to the desktop for easy finding, probably imgxxxx.jpg or dscxxxx.jpg, whatever format it was taken in or if you renamed it. Then just post a reply, scroll down to manage attachments, little box will pop up and select Choose File. After finding your file on the desktop, click upload - wait for it to finish and then close the little box. Hit submit reply and you're done! If the file size is too large, there is another method. In iPhoto after clicking on the file you want, click on File on the menu bar, then click export. Under Kind select JPG, Quality can be set to High or Maximum, File Size should be set to Small. Then click export, it will give you the option of saving the file where you want. Hope this helps. (Yeah, I'm a Mac Geek) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ernesto Brown Posted March 29, 2009 Author Share Posted March 29, 2009 Hello All, Attached are pictures of the much cleaner (but not too clean) drill press. One of the bits is dated 1874. The photos show a bunch of numbers and the press from all angles. There is one picture of a detached piece. We can see where it attaches on the lever side of the press but we are not sure if it has any functionality. Any thoughts? Also attached are photos of the broken handle. We would love to hear our thoughts about how to attach this broken piece of forged steel. Thanks again. Ernesto and His Dad (Michael) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted March 29, 2009 Share Posted March 29, 2009 She's a beauty! If you hold the detached piece next to or on where it goes it'll be a lot easier to say what it is. However, I'd guess it's part of the automatic feed drive mechanism. Frosty Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keykeeper Posted March 29, 2009 Share Posted March 29, 2009 First, that is one nice looking machine. Second, that looks like cast iron where the handle broke, not forged steel. Consult someone skilled in brazing or welding cast iron. Third, oil that thing lightly, since the cleanup will promote rusting on all those nice slick areas. That grease was protecting everything, hence the awesome shape that machine is in. I'm jealous!! Good luck on getting it up and running. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ernesto Brown Posted March 29, 2009 Author Share Posted March 29, 2009 We will coat her with oil tomorrow and I will take more pictures of the piece. You are right, I meant caste and I kept saying forged (Nesto is 11 and I am a complete beginner trying to keep up with a possessed son). So, based on your comments, I got a good deal for $250? I was wondering if it was a good deal or whether I got taken because I fell in love with the beauty of it. It is amazing what charm it adds to his shop. I will post again tomorrow with the right pictures of the attachment. You guys are really great. Much appreciated. Michael Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Iron Falcon 72 Posted March 29, 2009 Share Posted March 29, 2009 I'd pay that for one like that. But I'm rather a spendthrift!! Don't get oil on either of the parts of the broken handle! Is that handle the one which moves the drill stem? If so it will need to be stronger than simply brazing. Get a pro to look at but I think it will need to have a pin or mechanical support of some sort. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ernesto Brown Posted March 29, 2009 Author Share Posted March 29, 2009 Ok. I will try and figure out a way to take the rest of the handle off and bring it in to someone. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ernesto Brown Posted March 29, 2009 Author Share Posted March 29, 2009 Hello Again, Attached below are more photos of our "new" Champion Drill Press. As requested in our last posting (by Frosty I think), we attached the piece that was photographed separately. When attached, it prohibits the broken handle or, alternatively, the lever handle (on the same side as the newly attached piece) from operating (which basically makes the press inoperable; probably why it was not attached). Any thoughts as to the purpose of this piece historically? Also attached are various photos showing tiny holes on different components of the press. We wanted to confirm that oil and not grease are supposed to be squirted into these little holes. Assuming oil, is there any oil that is best for this purpose? The gears seemed pretty clean and we were wondering if they needed grease or oil (again, given their relative cleanliness, a light oiling is probably all that is needed, but not sure). Finally, we attached a picture of us looking pretty happy with our new addition. We did give the press an oil massage this morning and she is happy. We will surely have more questions once we hook it up to the juice. Thanks again. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Iron Falcon 72 Posted March 29, 2009 Share Posted March 29, 2009 (edited) Unless there's a zerk fitting the component will need oil (or if the hole was threaded indicating it had a zerk in it). Any component which is turned by the motor, (the drive train) should be oiled with a light motor oil. There should be holes anywhere a driving shaft disappears into a sleeve or bearing. Better to lightly oil often rather then heavily oil rarely. Say once for every hour of use or if it sits for a couple of weeks. It looks like it may have babbit bearings on the main drive axles at the top and bottom. Is there any play in either of those axles? Gears which are not in the actual drive train would benefit from light machine oil. It doesn't need to be dripping off just a light coating. I'll bet if you clean out the two holes in picture 0047 on the quill you'll find set screws in the bottom of the hole. If not, then they most likely lube the drill shaft. Can you show another picture of how the part you reinstalled locks it up? It seems odd that Champion would make a lock that complicated with the worm gear and bevel-cut gear. I'll bet there was a handle of some sort on the other end of the spiral gear shaft. It probably allowed the operator to make very tiny adjustments to the drill penetration. Edited March 30, 2009 by Iron Falcon 72 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted March 30, 2009 Share Posted March 30, 2009 Okay, that shaft transfers power from a PTO shaft to the self feed mechanism. To help keep things straight, I'll refer to pictures in the first post with them as FP# and the second one as SP#. It'll help, honest. -------------------------- FP7 gives a fair over view of the right side of the drill press. Starting at the left in the picture (front of the drill press) is the manual feed wheel, exactly the same thing as on a lathe, mill, etc. Following the feed shaft the feed wheel is mounted on you come to a worm gear. This drives the rack and pinion shaft that feeds the quill and chuck up and down. Following the feed shaft to the end there is a gear that meshes to the "mystery part". The mystery part transmits the rotation from the PTO at the top and turns it 90* to turn the feed shaft, as seen in SP7. In FP7 the feed lever pivots on the rack and pinion shaft and is attached through a large notched looking steel wheel. The notches are key ways and the wheel thing is a clutch. One of the key ways is filled, this is the dog or key it is in line with the feed lever and is attached to the grip lever by the connecting rod. It's exactly the same as a lever parking brake. finally, sort of, there appears to be another little lever on the opposite side of the grip lever on the feed lever and I'll bet it can be moved to lock the grip lever in place. Call it the locking lever. Now, on the opposite side of the drill press, left side as you're standing in the operator's position there is another lever FP5. It's just about even with Nesto's shoulder. I'm betting this engages or disengages the rack and pinion shaft from the self feed shaft. Here's why the "mystery shaft" locks it up. The lever on the left side is engaged AND the feed lever is engaged. the same effect as putting a car in gear with the parking brake on except none of these are friction clutches so there's no chance of slippage. How you operate. To use the manual feed wheel or self feed pull the grip lever on the feed lever and lock it in place with the grip lock. Now the machine should turn freely and the manual feed wheel will advance or retract the quill and chuck. To use the feed lever, loosen the lever on the left side and engage the dog by releasing the grip brake. Now the lever should advance or retract the quill and chuck. Somewhere there should be a mechanism to engage either the self feed OR the feed wheel and that may be the lever on the left side. That should make it work with the "mystery part" bolted on. You'll have to play with it some to figure out exactly how it works. Hope I'm close enough you can figure it out from here. Just mess with things and try turning it by hand. You'll need to have these things figured out before you put power to it or bad things might happen. Enjoy. Frosty Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Iron Falcon 72 Posted March 30, 2009 Share Posted March 30, 2009 Frosty, Sounds like a good explanation. Would it change anything if that lever by Nesto's shoulder had two handles on it? I think that is the broken handled part. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ernesto Brown Posted March 30, 2009 Author Share Posted March 30, 2009 I have said it before, you guys are amazing. Frosty, I am going to print out your email and walk through everything with Nesto this weekend. The last line of your email had me both laughing and fearing. We will make darn sure we have everything figured out, but from the little bit that we have already played with it, you are spot on. I think the part that engages either the self feed OR the feed wheel is right on the front of the press when standing in the operators position. There is a picture of it (a piece is actually broken off of it but we do not have the broken piece). It is simply a latch that, when you push up the latch on the right side of the press raises the gearing so that it can disengage one gear and engage another. Thanks so much. We will be back in touch this weekend. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted March 31, 2009 Share Posted March 31, 2009 Yes, I believe that's it FP13. Right? there has to be something to disengage the feed wheel shaft from the rack and pinion shaft. Iron Falcon. I believe you're right but that lines up on the quill rack and is probably the fast retract. It's a cast part too and will be a problem to weld up. What might be a good option is to find out who is having an iron pour within a reasonable distance and paying someone involved to help you make a mold so you can cast a new one. That's how I'm going to replace the missing flywheel and maybe the table on my Champion 200 1/2 post drill. I'll ask my caster buddy if he knows anyone in your area. I really wish I could come play with her for a little bit I think I could winkle out it's operation reasonably quickly. Frosty Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
R W Posted March 31, 2009 Share Posted March 31, 2009 Own a drill similar to this, does not have power feed, I've found it to be a great machine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tiptop Posted April 4, 2009 Share Posted April 4, 2009 Looked to me as you have some major gear damage to deal with also. Good luck on the DP, those old drill press' are nice when working properly. The picture before the drill chuck looks like a boring head, nice attachment for the old girl. Jay Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
welder19 Posted April 4, 2009 Share Posted April 4, 2009 McMaster-Carr sells leather and synthetic flat belt and the aligators to connect it, it's not cheap but they last forever, you buy it buy the foot. welder19 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted April 5, 2009 Share Posted April 5, 2009 Jay: You see gear damage? Which picture? Frosty Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Warren Nakkela Posted April 7, 2009 Share Posted April 7, 2009 Well Frosty, If you look at picture number ten in the first group you will see this gear under the guard with the missing teeth. My friend has a drill press like this one and I have used it. You see the broken handle? That is to run the quill up or down while you have the pawl on the other side of that shaft disengaged. I would just vee it out and braze it up. It does not have any load on it. BTW, brazing is often stronger than arc welding on castings as it is softer and will yield rather than crack as weld often are wont to do. Warren Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
unkle spike Posted April 7, 2009 Share Posted April 7, 2009 For best pricing on Leather Drive Belts I have found:Custom Leather Drive Belts-Single-ply (11/64''), up to 4'' wide Contact john, he really knows what he is doing, and my belt came with a lifetime sizing guarantee, just mail it back to him and he will shorten it as needed. I purchased a new belt for my hand cranked forge, he was spot on with the sizing, and lightning fast to ship. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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