101 H-B

Thanks for the explanation Joe. Do you know when they switched from forge welding the waist to arc welding?

Exactly what TechnicusJoe said: 20th century Peddinghaus. In that period of manufacture they stamped "ORIGINAL PFP" in an outline box. It may be shallow and hard to make out.

I'm with Vaughn, multi-position cutter of some sort. If you're using it as a small gauge shear, that's slick..

Big Congrats, Josh! I hope you find time to fulfill all your ambitions in retirement. We look forward to your book and hearing from you here.

Your anvil is an English wrought iron anvil with a steel top plate on the flat face. The triangular feet tips indicate it is the kind often called "Old English" made between 1820-1860. The anvil is 'built up' construction, meaning multiple parts forge welded onto a central vertical block. The horn, heel, feet are all individual parts welded to the center. You can probably see where the parts join if you look under the bottom. It's a good usable anvil and probably rings pretty strong. You may want to secure it soundly to quiet it down a bit. Old English anvil names often seen in Australia are Attwood, Foster, Hadfield & Sanderson, Wilkinson, there are others. We have many of the same here in the States thanks to sharing our heritage as colonies of the British Empire. Enjoy it!

Very nice traditional shop, appreciate the pictures. Will see if I can get there next time I'm over in the UK.

For sure a nice later 2-pc. Hay-Budden, If I'm reading the serial number correctly A8042, it was made around 1918. Yes, the number on the waist is the weight, 204 or 264? You got a great anvil at a great price.

There you have it, views vary, each valid. My observation is that although small anvils appeal to some collectors, how many have turned up, scarcity, is even more important in determining value. A 60 lb. anvil isn't that rare, although more 75 to 150 lb. were sold to every family farm over the last 200 years. Combine scarcity and made by a real anvil maker, as your list, and price really goes up: only about six ~10 lb. Hay-Buddens are widely known about, they bring 4 figures. Fishers turn up more often, so prices aren't nearly as high. I haven't heard of any that small from Trenton. Condition counts also. Go another step, country of origin: here in the U.S., an anvil made by Hay-Budden will bring more than a Mouse Hole and most Peter Wrights. There's been a very interesting, and still ongoing evolution of availability/awareness/value driven by the increasing use of the internet over the last 10+ years. This pertains to all vintage/antique markets: car parts, coins, anything. While we've learned there are more out there than we could find locally before ebay and Craigslist, we have to compete in a global marketplace with everyone at all levels of income, so prices overall remain strong. Anyone using the internet for a period of time has come a long way through the learning curve and found their place in the marketplace, that is, a better focus of what they're looking for within their budget. Now prices for a rare anvil, of any size, in outstanding excellent condition, will bring many times higher than the same sized anvil with chipped edges. It is as likely to be a user as a collector buying at that high price if it is 100+ lb. size. For anvils, 50 lb. is certainly an important threshold. For most users they start becoming too small, most likely why less were make, now making old anvils that size more scarce and desirable to collectors. 30 lb. is an even more important threshold as there are even fewer, so it goes with 20 lb., 10 .. as long as there aren't many of them, they will bring a premium. Another factor is basic supply and demand: how many buyers are there for something, no matter how rare? Once the buyers or collectors are satisfied, prices soften. Or take out a couple of the top buyers and prices come down noticeably. We've seen this with anvils, as there are not that many stepping up to buy Tim Kris's collection of European historical anvils. I'll stop here ... like Tim said, small anvils "are cool"

Here's an example of Peter Wright Patent stamping prior to the later ones with England added. Yours probably looked like this originally.

In Australia I've heard these called 'traveling anvils' as if someone could pack it on their horse for repairs in the Outback. I can also see it being used as a workbench anvil for any number of shops. Sent you a PM as well.

Hello Ryan, I go along with the information above stating your anvil is English made. The triangular feet and built up construction (multiple parts forge welded to the central block) indicate an 'Old English' style forged wrought iron anvil with a steel top plate on the flat working face, probably made between 1820-1860. If any trace of a name stamping remains, it is usually on the side facing you when the horn is to the right - opposite of the side with the weight numbers. Old English anvils most often found in Australia are: Wilkinson, Attwood, Foster, Hadfield & Sanderson; certainly others are possible. Mouse Hole anvils are also found, but the name and numbers are both on the side facing when the horn is to the right. Most of the Peter Wrights are the later Patent ones with a ledge on the foot, but an early one made as yours is also possible. Looks great for 150 years old! Maybe post a picture of the other side..? Cheers!

I came across this chart of Parker vises a while ago, unfortunately I don't see model 275 on it, but maybe you will find one of the pictures looks like yours: http://dayid.org/mediawiki/index.php/Charles_Parker_Vise

Nav, Check your PM, I sent you a N. California contact to try for anvils.

Agree, looks like better to pass. Not sure where you're located, but given a little time I'm sure you can do better. You'll be glad you looked a little more in the long run even though it's no fun to wait.

Ser# looks like: 178353 AIA chart says 1920

I agree with Jim, the anvil is a Trenton, marked AJAX, I think that was a Sears brand name, made by The Columbus Forge & Anvil Co., Columbus OH. If I read the front foot correctly, it says 110 lb. on the left. Ser# on the right is consistent with Trenton anvils. The hollow under the base, how the front foot is marked, and the shape of the AJAX stamp are all Trenton characteristics. Looks like a darn nice anvil at an excellent price. (Hay-Budden's aren't dished underneath, ser# would be on the left front foot, weight would be on the side below the name)

I agree with Jim, the anvil is a Trenton, marked AJAX, I think that was a Sears brand name, made by The Columbus Forge & Anvil Co., Columbus OH. If I read the front foot correctly, it says 110 lb. on the left. Ser# on the right is consistent with Trenton anvils. The hollow under the base, how the front foot is marked, and the shape of the AJAX stamp are all Trenton characteristics. Looks like a darn nice anvil at an excellent price. (Hay-Budden's aren't dished underneath, ser# would be on the left front foot, weight would be on the side below the name)

Video of Fred's collection was uploaded on YouTube today, a friend informed me. Search "Anvil historical collection part 1" also part 2.. quite something to see

Lifting a big anvil isn't easy and isn't necessary for a single move. Tip it, walk it, slide it, works well and won't require a hoist. Take a sturdy plank, say a pressure treated 2"x12" 6-7 feet long and walk it up the plank into your minivan, use something solid in the middle of the plank as a trestle so it doesn't sag. Sure, a friend or two will help. Like already mentioned, be sure to put some thick plywood on the minivan bed. Blocking it behind the seats and on either side so it can't slide when you turn corners or use the brakes. You can lay it down using a pry bar in the hardy hole if you want.

The SISCO anvil pattern is nearly identical to Söderfors, as if they were made in the same foundry and transitioned from the SISCO name to Söderfors around 1910. Based on Swedish anvils I've seen and read in Postman's book Anvils in America, SISCO, Söderfors, Kohlswa, and NOHAB, all are homogeneous cast steel anvils, hardened and tempered, no top plate. Testimonies I've heard are all favorable about them, but the edges seem easier to chip than the steel plate on top of wrought iron anvils. You may find this exerpt from a 1911 congressional tariff/duty hearing interesting; they mention SISCO by name: http://books.google.com/books?id=QDkvAAAAMAAJ&pg=PA1043&lpg=PA1038&ots=U_TdYIhBFY&dq=1911+sweden+anvil&output=html_text

I'm with Fudd, it's a Columbian with mold lines. I've seen pretty crude castings on some Columbians, doesn't affect it's use.

Quint, you got that beauty from Gig Harbor CL?

Agree, Cliff Carroll is one of the best priced if a farrier's pattern suits your needs. If you like a traditional blacksmith's anvil, one of the best deals out there is Anvil Brand's 120# is $555 www.anvilbrand.com/Anvil-Brand-Anvils-C247.aspx Another well priced maker for traditional blacksmith's pattern anvils is Emerson: 100#, 150#, 200# http://emersonhorseshoe.net/21-anvils Hope you find what you're looking for!

Appreciate the honest feedback, really thinking about it..!

Awesome report, Pugh, and Great pictures! What a great experience, I'm very tempted, but wonder how fit you have to be to have a successful week?