Gustav

Members
  • Content Count

    33
  • Joined

  • Last visited

About Gustav

  • Rank
    Advanced Member

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Småland, Sweden

Recent Profile Visitors

290 profile views
  1. I normalized in air and then annealed in vermiculite yesterday and took the knife out today. It's soft! One question though: what's the difference if you compare dead soft carbon steel and just regular old mild steel? The knife is soft, but mild steel is softer. This might be a no-brainer, but not for me.
  2. I'll make sure to regularly dip it in water. Thanks!
  3. Now that's something I didn't know. Normalize and then anneal! One question however: after grinding etc, do I need to normalize and anneal again just before quenching? For instance, if the steel gets pretty hot while grinding (maybe not glowing, but hot), is it necessary to redo steps 1 and 2 before hardening? It definitely did!
  4. anvil - Ok if I want to shape the knife after forging so a file can remove material, is it air cooling (normalizing) or vermiculite (annealing)? I've always thought of annealing as the process after quenching with the tempering colors and normalizing as the "remove all hardness and stress before shaping and quenching". Before the quench there's the normalizing cycles so it's critical temp then air cool regardless of how thin it is? It feels like it cools down too quickly when air cooled so it's not very soft.
  5. Hey. I'm a new bladesmith (with a couple of years experience of traditional blacksmithing) and I've made a couple of knives out of O2 steel. The first one turned out great, but the second one had cracks all over the edge and spine. I've done a little bit of research and people say: the edge hardens first, so when the thicker spine hardens the edge can't flex => cracks. What I think caused it: I had problems normalizing it before hardening. The oil (canola oil) was probably not hot enough. I used a coke forge and struggled to reach an even temperature. Read a bit online and found out O2 isn't for inexperienced bladesmiths. I didn't know this when I began forging my next knife, a kitchen knife. It's not hardened yet, and I'm terrified of doing it. My question is: how do I make sure I don't get any cracks in my new knife? I've bought some vermiculite to normalize in, but someone said online that you shouldn't normalize O2 in vermiculite. He said you should do a "sandwich" with hot pieces of thick metal under and over the knife. Does vermiculite work or was he right? Is there anything else you recommend me doing to increase my chances of a successful quench with O2? I've ordered 80CrV2 steel (which supposedly is a more beginner-friendly steel) so next time will be easier. Very thankful for all answers! // Gustav
  6. Hey! Really happy about my first knife! I've tried twice before but it was pretty much just practice ones on mild steel. This one is made from 5x40 mm O2 tool steel. It successfully hardened and tempered, but I'm not really happy about the sharpening. I went from 120 to 400 grit on our belt sander (the highest grit we had lol), tried honing but failed so it almost cuts paper. So there's a lot to improve and learn from. What do you think about it?
  7. I've experimented with some patters on my openers. I really don't like the zig-zag one, but what do you think? Are there any good looking patterns that are quick to cut with a chisel? The openers will be sold, so it can't be any over complicated ones that take a lot of time. (Any other thoughts on the openers are also appreciated! )
  8. Yes that's working out pretty well when it comes to learning this craft! I made another one today: This one fixed some of the problems I had with the "left one". It's much thicker, it has a smaller "hole" and a wider "tooth" (what's it called?) so it can grip underneath the caps easier. It also works, which is a good thing As for all the things I forge, there are always things to improve and as you said, learn from the recent tries!
  9. Just forged my first ever! Actually, it's two of the first things I have forged at all. They were forged from 14x14 mm bar and finished with boiled linseed oil. They turned out quite small but the "hole" was a bit too large. On top of that, only the one to the right worked (even if I burned it a bit) since the left one couldn't grip onto the cap with its tiny scroll. It also bent since the whole thing was too thin for an "open" loop. Anything to keep in mind when forging bottle openers? I could use a bit of help as you can see...
  10. Well, turns out we have 2 welders!
  11. What kind of clay would that be?
  12. If I find some 10 mm sheet metal, what kind of welder is required? I have a "Micro-Mig" atm (with specs I don't have in my head). Will that do?
  13. Thanks for the quick reply! I'll try to find some thicker plate. I suppose it doesn't matter what type of steel it is? As long as it's not galvanized or something like that. Mod note: don’t use the quote feature if you’re replying to the immediately preceding comment. It’s a waste of space and bandwidth.
  14. Hey guys! It's time to upgrade my forge. The first picture is what it looks like ATM and the secound is what I want it to (sort of) look like: The plan is to weld sheet metal to make this a "table" and then cut out a round opening to make room for the rim forge. That way the forge I have now acts as a firepot. It will probably look like something like this: The things I am uncertain about are: 1. How large should the "table" be? 2. Should I weld some plates (like these: ) inside the rim to make it look more like the firepot from the picture I pasted? 3. How thick does the sheet metal have to be? Both for the table and the eventual plates for the firepot in question number 2 above. 4. Should I ditch the rim and make an entirely new firepot? This could be difficult since I'll have a hard time finding extremely thick sheetmetal. Just realized that this got picture heavy. Very thankful for all answers. // Eophex
  15. Thanks everyone for helping me with this hobby. Unfortunately there will not be a propane forge built nor bought. This is mainly because I already have a solid fuel forge (which might not be so good) and because I already have a virtually unlimited amount of coke. Investing in a propane forge, tank and propane would be too expensive compared to just continuing with the forge I already have. At the moment, I will propably just modify it with some sheet metal (another thread is possibly going to take care of that). However, I'm certain that I will build a propane forge in the future, when I move. When that time comes, I will have most of the knowledge of how to build one, thanks to you guys!