knots

Looks like you are on your way. I am sure that you will find other features to build into your TH as you build. Below are thumbnails of how I handled the linkage adjustment Issues that comes with a sliding head assembly: Adjustable Spring and Strike Linkages Removable Bottom Strike Plate Hinged Necking Butcher & TH Ram/Tup Top Strike Plate Attachment Method Removable strike plates On both Anvil and Tup allow top and bottom tools to be fixed to either or both. Front to back registration can be adjusted by raising or lowering the head assembly. One other thing - Take note of the safety restraint strap between the two Parallel Arms . If any part of the swinging assembly were to come loose, theoretically the strap would keep the ram more or less in line and out of you face, or lap depending which end turned loose. The ram on my TH is about 55 pounds so it is a good idea to have a safety back-up feature built in.

I forged with charcoal for a couple of years before moving on to other fuels, but never tried using direct conversion of wood to charcoal in the forge. Seems like it would result in an uncomfortably hot work environment not to mention a lot of smoke . But of course if no other choice were available ---.

It's money or time. I make charcoal every day during the winter in my airtight stove, then let it burn to ash. There is a large online community that discusses this subject that would be a good source of information on how to build an air tight retort . But making charcoal takes time that could be spent forging. Coal is a better choice for fuel and it is not excessively expensive. By all means, if you want to make your own charcoal you can and should. However if it is the iron work that is your main interest coal is the way to go. Making charcoal is a time consuming task. When forging with charcoal, it is consumed faster than coal. Use coal if possible.

The doubled angle upright column is rock solid. I will say this about the inline concept : Since the ram runs secure in a guide way there are fewer moving parts inclose proximity of the operator in case something breaks. I think that it has always been a concern with the old parallel arm machines that the ram could end up in your lap if something were to come loose.

The hammer was disassembled for the move. In my old shop the treadle hammer was located on a brick floor that was set in a sand bed. After a couple of days the hammer anvil started driving the bricks down so I placed a 16" square of 1/4"steel plate below the anvil. I used it that way for many years. My new shop is pretty tight (space challenged) with all of the stuff that I have so I need to be able to move the TH. I mounted it on two layers of 3/4" plywood laminated and screwed together to allow use of pipe rollers to move it when needed. The plywood will out last me. If you look closely you will see that both the anvil and Ram have a removable strike plate. This allows changing the strike plate out for tooling mounted in either or both. Being able to raise and lower the treadle ram gives a bit of adjustment from front to back for alinement/registration of tooling when set both in top and bottom. Just another advantage of the moveable head feature.

Have a look at this one that I built about 20 years ago. Basically the geometry was based on the ABANA design with changes to allow quick change tooling . To I used two angles back to back for the rear frame . This feature provided a way channel for the head assembly to be adjustable up and down to accommodate different tooling height requirements. It was also demountable for easy moving. Follow the link below which has pictures. The head was raised or lowered using a VW jack which was mounted to the frame and moveable head pivot assembly ( not shown on the thumbnails because it was being reassembled from a move when the pictures were taken). I don't have plans other the ABANZ plans but could take more pictures if desired. So far as the benefits of the adjustable head - That depends how often and how many different operations, and tool heights/lengths that you will use. I use mine primarily with a set of quick change butcher tools most of the time so do not change the adjustment often for hand work. It is however nice to have the flexibility. http://www.metalartistforum.com/maf/index.php?/topic/6533-treadle-hammer-prepared-for-quick-change-tooling/

I really do agree that It is a cool little maschine. It almost looks like the frame is a C-clamp. The thumbnail expozure obscures detail of the machine to the extent that I can't tell how it works or even it it could work. I would never describe any such project as pittiful even if and maybe especially if it were a simple work of art. How about helping us out more with pictures. A few extra details of what plan to do with it as well as some way to really understand it's size and function. You have our attention so really show us enough detail help us understand what this project really is and what it might or hope to do with it.

There is an element of uncertainty here. For hat pins ? :rolleyes:

There are ways to quiten an anvil. My Peter Wright rang like a bell until I snugged it down to my stump with Z clips and bit of roofing felt between. Wish you were close because I have a 300 pound Fisher that needs a new home. Z-clips are easy to make and effective, but if "Thunk" is the only sound that warms your heart get your Fisher.

What tools do you have ? If you have a drill press this should be an easy task. Commercial jaws have cross hatch texture machined into them. IMO that is not a desirable feature for most of the work that blacksmiths do so I I either make overlay jaw covers form sheet metal, or replace them with mild steel inserts. If you have a suitable size steel bar handy it is an easy job to cut,countersink and and drill the inserts . I find that mild steel works well for me. Mild steel would not likely be acceptable for a machine shop but for the kind of work we do should be OK. If it is a modern, name brand, vice you may be able to order a set.

Insulating fire brick: I have drilled them, sawn them to special shapes on a table saw, used them restrained, and used them loose. Using them loose seems to be the thing that they like the least , other than being dropped. If you think about it, thermal cycling on a brittle insulating material is a major cause of failure. That is because, in the case of a forge, the inside is at forging heat while the outside is at maybe a few hundred degrees. Thermal expansion is therefore greater on the inside than the out side. This would cause the brick to bend and eventually crack. Putting them in compressionis probably one of the few things that can be done to help stabilize them. I like the valve spring idea because the coefficient of expansion of the steel compression rods is probably greater than that of the insulating fire brick. The springs would asure that a reasonable amount of compression be maintained when the forge is in and out of use. However, why not use refractory insulation board for the roof. Make up a heavy gage metal pan. Use nichrome wire and ceramic buttons to secure a couple of layers of insulating board in the pan. Coat it with ITC and away you go. Light and easy to remove for maintenance, as well as highly efficient . Seems like the coating would protect the board from the corrosive atmosphere of welding.

Can't comment on the Burke machine, Mines a Gorton Mastermill. It has three motors so I built a rotary phase converter.

VFD's connect to single phase power, convert from single phase to three phase power, as well as varying the frequency of the power for motor speed control. However the VFD's that I have will provide power to only one motor, so if the mill has a additional motor/motors to drive the table and quill you will likely have to have a VFD for each motor. I have not bought a VFD in five years so be sure to check that with the VFD that you buy. Things may have changed. They are not hard to install if you can read and follow instructions, except that the junction box volume provided integral to the machine is generally a lot smaller than big fingered guys are used to, so it takes a bit of care and thought to hook things up .

The bottom line is that if you can execute a process easier with one tool than with another available tool, then go for it. It is always good to have alternate means.

Keep your hands warm. When my hands started giving me a lot of pain at night so I started wearing fleece mittens to sleep in. The pain went away after about a week. Haven't tried them yet but fingerless fleece gloves would be easier to get used to. The cost of propane is high so we sleep with the house around 55 deg F. The shop stays about that temperature during the cold months so I wear a pair of SUG fingerless leather gloves most of the time, except when more protection is needed.

My diagnosis is Rheumatoid Arthritus. I have not been as active forging as I would like to lately, mainly because of the state of my wifes health. However I still can forge using my power hammer and other labor saving tools, and with my hammer limited to finishing proceedures. I can still move metal but have lost a lot of movement range in my wrist and fingers so just want to preserve what I have. You know that you are in trouble when you pick up a cup of coffee and you wrist pops. As you probably know, Rheumatoid Arthritus is an autoimmune disease. When I asked my new doctor about diet I got a blank look. So I have been reading everything that I can find regarding diet and find there is no simple answer. However I do believe that diet must be a significant part of the problem. Seems like a good idea to share on this subject. I detect some reluctance to talk about hammer technique. I understand the reluctance because I have been treated disrespectfully when I have attempted to discuss the subject. Seems to me that this thread should remain free of dogmatic opinion regarding hammer techinque because I believe that there are modifications to what is considered good technique that can extend a forging life of a damaged body. I have already posted my thoughts on this subject on a few threads so will not recover that ground unless interest is expressed. Even old guys deserve to have some fun. Keep forging ahead. And KYBOY thanks for starting this thread.

Thanks. This is a good overview of constructiona d operation. Looking at the Linclon torch it has a heat shield. In use, does the lack of one seem to be a problem. With the open arc, which appears larger than normal applications of arc welding, do you think the shields would reduce the potential hazard of use. It seems also to have an arc gap adjustment wheel that might be convenient if the torch is used for longer periods. As with any open arc process one needs to be aware of the hazards of wearing garments and gloves made from polyester, rather other than those made from natural fibers/materials . Not to mention using this device in an area cleared of flamable debris.

Does the source of your rods sell the torch ?

Think of it this way : If at the moment of impact between the hammer and anvil you have a firm grip on you hammer handle the result is that you are pushing the hammer into the anvil. In that case a portion of the reaction force is transferred into the anvil, the rest is transferred into your hand, wrist, and arm. This is a bad thing because: 1. The accumulation of that force transfer form many hammer strokes into your hand, wrist , and arm will cause tissue damage. 2. A tight grip at the moment of impact will restrict / dampen and reduce the benefit of hammer rebound. Hammer rebound off of the anvil is an important part of managing a hammer strike cycle. If you use the rebound to quickly position the hammer above your hand on the up swing, you will reduce the stress on your wrist. Basically you can test this by lifting the hammer first with the hammer held so that it extends straight out, in alinement, with your arm. Then lifting, from/by the elbow, with the hammer positioned above your hand, @ 90Deg with your forearm. It should be easy to detect which position places more stress on your hand, wrist, and arm. Finally, I believe that it is one of Hofi's principles/recommendations is to throw the hammed into the work piece. If you have ever played baseball you will know that you do not hold the ball with a "death grip" when throwing. So when hammering keep your grip just tight enough to control the strike and keep it from flying out of your hand.

Or PVC pipe could be used. I have fabricated a lot of stuff form PVC. If used all that is needed is a heat gun and PVC adhesive, and a little creative thinking. Some of the techniques used, in PVC fabrication, could make a good informative thread. Afterthought - PVC trim boards are also a good source of material as well. They could be laminated and turned into a nice handle. Actually I will probably try to find one of those nice Lincoln torches. It is just that I try to avoid FleaBay. The one question that remains open in my mind is why these devices fell into disuse. Safety, competition with cheap gas? I don't think that they are a replacement for OA heating but it sure is nice to have as many alternate ways to accomplish a work task as possible.

That is very interesting. I used to drool over such things back in the 50's when this knd of old school technology was fearured in popular mechanics . As a kid I was facinated by prospect of being able to fasten something by means other than nails and bolts. I read every issue of the available magazines cover to cover. Bought my first OA torch back in the early 60's and just never followed up on this. I once found a discarded canister of used and unused carbon arc electrodes. Never did find a torch though. How about showing us the torch in a bit more detail. The electrode holder end looks pretty simple. Might like to pull put my old buzz box out and give it a try since the cost of gas has escalated so much. It does look to be an interesting alternative. Thanks for taking the trouble to show us this. Funny, what goes around sometimes comes back full circle.

I like that. When I want to straighten something, that is difficult, after unwinding, I will frequently use my vise. With the stock at a red heat, insert the work piece from the side, and squeeze turn squeeze. If you make a set of, say, 12 - 14 GA., slip on jaw faces to protect the work piece from the jaw cross hatching you can get then pretty straight without a lot of damage to the surface finish. For the bigger stuff it is nice to have a screw or fly press. Then there is always the trick of laying the piece to be straightened over the step between the anvil face and table where light taps are often effective.

I bought a little Sears saw that looked like that back in the early 70's . Very nice little saw for a small shop. Sold mine when I got a bigger one . Haven't thought about it for a while. Seems like it had an open reduction gear drive. That the one ? If so how has the gear held up ? I kept mine well oiled and seemed to work well enough. If it seems to be the same machine I will look and see if I still have the manual.

In general I don't know of any one who uses a copper alloy hammer for straightening. The link below will take you to a thread that I started that has a nunber of opinions on what to use to straighten hot iron. The consensus seems to be use a wooden mallet or maul. I generally keep a piece of scrap 2 x 6 to use as a bottom cushon on my anvil. I have known smiths who used a dedicated stump. Another thing to consider is that using a bronze or brass hammer to flatten or form red hot iron would almost certainly leave seposits of the yellow metal at the strike points. If brass hot brushing leaves color, hot hammering on sharp edges certainly would as well. That effect may be an interesting point to explore on it's own merit. http://www.iforgeiron.com/topic/27124-firewood-maul/

Looks like it would be easy enough to replace the motor with 1 HP tolally enclosed motor. I occasionally visit my local electric motor repair shop for used motors such as would be needed.