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About RedLeg0811

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  1. I ended up using Heat fence and it worked well. The hotest outside the fence it got was 180deg, so I should be good to go.
  2. I need to weld some tabs on a new aluminum radiator. I am concerned about the tubes which are furnace braced. I know I should be good up to 840f, which is the melting point of the brazing filler. I am thinking as long as I do small welds and check the temp I should be good to go. I was also thinking a heat dam might be some added insurance. Has anyone looked at Hot Dam? Does this stuff or other products work? Thanks Martin
  3. I will try that. It is not heavy welding so that should work. I guess it goes right back to KISS. Thanks Martin
  4. I have an old hunting knife K-bar that I got from my dad. It is a great little knife. I had a USMC K-bar that I carried around with me when I was in the Corps. That was a great knife and I used it a lot. When I went from being a cannon cocker to a computer geek I was not going to the field hardly at all so it just sat. My dad latter on gave me a new one and I kept it and gave a good buddy my old one. I wish I would have hung on to it. My buddy and I got distant and he went over the deep end. The new K-bar sits in it's box, as I use the smaller hunting K-bar for hunting.
  5. I am going to be building a roll cage and as I go I will be tack welding while it is in my bronco. I want to protect the bronco paint as best I can. I see a wide range of welding blankets and wanted to seek some advice of which type to go with. As I said I want to protect the rig, but don't want to go broke doing it. The black Stallion are cheaper which would allow me to get a second blanket, but would I be substituting quality? Is the other one just that much better and more then I need? This one looks good and says it will not scratch the paint. Also says "Withstands temperatures to 30,000F, fire, and heat resistant" not sure, but sounds like they are streching the truth on that, but again I don't know. I also see soe of these: Thanks
  6. Not sure which version is in Mike's book, but that is the one I have. It gets plenty hot. At 1920 - 2000 I am at 4-6 PSI. I can easliy get to 2300 and hotter. I didn't want to burn up my K thermocoupler so that was as hi as I ran it. Last time I talked to Mike which was maybe 2003-4, he said something about writing a book on soidering and being able to soider glass to metal. It was quite awhile ago so maybe I remember that wrong.
  7. Avadon, That is a good point about raising where you stand. Seams so simply, but I didn't even think about it. Your Gladiator looks so pretty compard to mine. It has nic and such, but I bought mine second hand. I built a stand that is a trapazoid that is then filled with sand and a plate flots on it. This allows adjustment for the intial setup.
  8. Hey Big Gun Dr, Yeah I totally spaced Aluminum. I have done very little aluminum spray arc and it has been awhile since I have done steel spray arc. My main point was that it isn't just a matter of turning up the juice to spray arc. So when you say big Gun Dr are we talking howitzers? If so I used to be a cannon cocker on M198s. Bob, you are probably correct that you don't need a mixer, that was how I learned and we would adjust it slightly to get the best weld out of it. Again it has been awhile since I have done spray arc, but I remember when doing stainless there was argon mixed with hellium, can't remember if there was a third, but I think there was. Cheers
  9. I second this. I use hardwire for light weight welding and dual shield for and have welding. Dual shield is a specific flux core used with gas it is not regular flux core used with gas. Any of your FCAW is considered structrual where hardwire is not per AWS. Arftist, Spray arc is not just turning up the heat it requires gas. It also requires a mixer to mix argon and Oxygen, argon and hellium, or argon and a small amount of Co2. Also since this proccess has a large weld pool it is usually used on flat or horizontal welds, and not used on root passes. Martin
  10. Gary, Which burner design are you using? Yeah the independent will help you have control over the temp. I didn't realize that was what you were doing. By they way the forge does look really nice. Martin
  11. RedLeg0811


    Get a pyro meter and a K thermocoupler. You can Figure out the exact presure and temp your forge should be. I picked one up a month ago and found I had too high of presure for what I needed and was able to turn it down which will save me gas. Martin
  12. Unless you are talking about an R or S thermalcouple (3200deg), which is what Thomas Dean is talking about. You will want a K (2300 deg) $30. This will do almost everything you will want.
  13. I think that 3 burners might be too much for that forge. I have a one burner and at 5-6 psi I am at 1923 deg. 15 psi I am easly at 2300.I could go higher, but I didn't want to burn my thermalcoupler out. Point being I think your going to have trouble without overfiring the iron. Martin