Mainely,Bob

Seems like if someone was in that much of a hurry they`d just use a robotic welder. From experience I can tell you that having 2 welders try to work the same area leads to;1-a case of sore eyes for one or both. 2-overloading the vent system 3-more problems and confusion than it`s worth. If this process is to be continuous then how does one pick up the puddle while the first guy is occupying that space?You`d have to be poised ready to strike your arc at the moment he finished.One space,two bodies,does not compute. When I was welding pipe the emphasis was on getting the best weld possible and that usually meant at least a quick chip and brush between changing rods so where would this technique be an advantage? Also,if this is to be an xrayed weld then who`s responsible for it? If you plan on doing this to weld assemblies in the shop then that`s what they make powered rollers for.1 man + rollers=pretty much continuous welds made from one comfortable position. I`m not saying it`s never been done.I`m saying it doesn`t seem like a well thought out technique.Sounds like an idea a foreman thought up rather than a welder,even one doing piece work with a trusted buddy.

Welcome to IFI.Nice shop! You are in good company with the hydraulic powered shop.That`s how most of the Amish folks out in PA used to get around the no electricity thing.They`d set up an engine outside the shop building and then run plumbing to the shop instead of wiring. I talked to a couple of the woodworking shops and they said the power(especially at low speed) and variable speed were a real plus compared to their neighbors who ran electric motors. The machine shops love hydraulics too. Are you running a hydraulic chainsaw off that tractor by any chance?Seems like it would be just the ticket for the type of jobs you do. I have a friend who lives completely off the grid too.He has a propane powered `fridge and gas powered lites.The only thing electric is his well pump and he fires up a gen set once a week to fill his holding tank so the fuel bill is small.Heats the house with wood,just like we do.Pretty common thing up here where you never know when the power`s gonna go out.

I`ve had good luck grinding a scarf joint on the ends and then using silver braze to join. If you have a machine shop close they probably have a blade welder that they use to make up their own blades and can weld yours for you.You will pay whatever the shop minimum is to have it done so may as well bring all the blades you have and get them done too.

JN, Can you give some examples of things to look for at a scrap yard that may be made from 4340,4140 or other alloys that would come in a size and shape handy to use as an anvil?

I may have mis-labeled the type of steel as tool steel.I was going under the assumption that most people(especially newer folks) feel if it`s heat treatable and you can successfully make tools out of it then it`s considered tool steel as opposed to mild steel. I may not have gotten my other point about the base(with or without sand) and scrap thing across as I had hoped as I see others restating what looks like the same idea with no problems.

Seems like alot of trouble and money to buy and HT a large piece when all you really need is a proper surface to hammer on. If it were me I`d look for or fab a base that would dampen vibration,like something from the scrap yard or even a sand filled base,and then fix a smaller piece of tool steel to that. Why do you feel you need a really large piece of HT solid tool steel?

Just so you know,5200 comes in clear and a variety of colors. As far as the bagging system goes,you can use the table you`re using now as a base and just seal a one sided bag to that. Once you have a vac pump you`ll find all kinds of uses for it.Clamping is especially handy with a rig like this. A high quality HVAC unit running on 110 volts can be found for less than $200 on either Ebay or CL around most urban areas.

Phil, CCTV,are you trying to send Deb over the edge?!! What good would it be to stand in the house and watch Frosty and not be able to do anything about it? May I respectfully suggest either a shock collar and/or carefully placed cans of pepper spray to be triggered from the house in conjunction with the CCTV. Unfortunately it may be cost prohibitive to electrify the floor and send him to work with his bearfeet soaking. :)

Back when my father was alive and trying to lure me to Maine and away from the money in the New York area he sent me a want add for a yacht yard.Looking at that add it was apparent that what they wanted was one man to do the work of seven men.(must be proficient in fabrication,pipe fitting,vent work,polishing,welding,etc).Mainly to get my dad off my back I applied and surprisingly was called for an interview which led to getting the job. Long story short,one of the best compliments I ever received was to have the job title "Metal Man" assigned to me.I asked the yard manager why whenever he wanted to direct a customer to me he pointed down the dock to the plate shop and told them "Go in that building and ask for the metal man" as we had many workers that did things like welding,mechanics,ship fitting,pipe work,etc. He told me while they had many subcontractors and temp hires that worked a particular area of metal working I was the only one they felt they could count on to be able to do it all.He and the owner had decided that the best description they could come up with for me was"Metal Man" because if it had to do with metal,I was the one to talk to.What surprised me was that all the other workers in the yard knew what it meant and always pointed toward me.That was high praise as far as I was concerned. I never considered myself anything particularly special,I just knew I loved working with metal in any form. I never stopped learning or doubted my skill set or ability to find answers thru research and practice.I picked the subcontractor`s brains as much as they did mine. I never worried about lines,where they might be or if I crossed them.I looked at a job, figured how to effectively do it,gathered my tools and went to work. The only time in my life that real lines were either drawn or worried over were during the times I worked as a member of a union.I can tell you that even though I feel in some aspects unions are a good and needed thing they have never been anything but a hindrance to me on a personal level. I say leave the lines and negotiations to the shop stewards and union bosses.Get down on the deck plates and get to the job at hand.Let the customer sort it out when he tells his friends what a fine job you did and sends them back your way. Lines are something that just lead to limits,I don`t see a need to limit myself or anyone else.

My first thought was will the silicone release when it`s heated as you know someone will put a hot pot or pan down on the "metal" counter top.If you go with silicone then maybe one with a high heat application may be safer. That being said,when laminating wood to metal in boatyards we used West System epoxy if a no heat application(epoxy will release with heat) or a marine sealer called 5200 if we needed some give and to allow for flex.5200 was used on thru hull fittings near engines so we also felt more comfortable using this under mild heat. What ever you use I would also recommend bagging the assembly and using a vac press to ensure a complete and total bond.Much more positive and less trouble than wrestling anvils. :)

How is staying on topic and showing pics of the same technique threadjacking? I think you may need to take a look around and see both how this forum works and maybe get an idea of who you may be talking to in a less than supportive manner. Thanks John B for showing the pics of what can be done when expanding this technique. Thanks again for pointing to where we can go to actually see this technique done and maybe learn how to correctly do it ourselves under expert guidance.

Porta-bands are a very useful tool in that they are big enough to do a surprising amount of work and yet small enough to take to the work if you can`t bring it into the shop. They are a pretty much standard tool in alot of boatyards and the maintenance shops of most factories. Just about anyone with moderate fab skills can whip up a base for one and have themselves a small upright bandsaw.Milwaukee even makes a base that turns them into the equivalent of a cut off saw. I would look for a model with a deep throat as they are not unwieldly and the extra depth of cut is more handy than you`d think.I`d also stay with the proven brand names like Milwaukee,Porter Cable,etc.Those folks have been making the industrial model of these saws for a long time and they know what it takes to build a balanced,powerful and long lasting saw.Others have tried and failed to copy the leaders and put out a saw at a cheaper price point.IME (20+ years worth of it) they don`t measure up or last near as long. Once you own one of these you`ll wonder how you ever got along without it.A Sawzall is a poor substitute and only surpasses a Porta-band by being capable of plunge cutting or working in the blind.

John B, Your work and pics are never boring,inspiring is more like it! While you say your work is nothing outstanding I beg to differ.It`s easy to see the hand of a practiced craftsman adding subtle touches and proper proportions that combine to make the understated work that would be at home most anywhere.Hard to find in this "More is better" world we seem headed toward. Having been an instructor in more than one capacity myself I feel there is no finer reward for the time invested than to see people you`ve taught eclipsing the teacher.I`m sure you know the feeling. Judging from your open participation and willingness to share here I`m sure many students seek your guidance. Thanks again for the pics and don`t be shy about sharing more.Start your own thread if you feel the need.I know I look for your posts so I`ll be sure the look at anything else you care to share.

Cool shoes Frosty! Did you bag the bear yourself? That wasn`t you up on the roof in the first photo was it?Don`t make us call Deb,some of us still have her on speed dial!

John, Have you tried readjusting the guides or maybe upgrading the guides on your saw? Using a new and appropriate type blade at the correct speed on a tuned bandsaw I have had no problem with accurate cuts that only need filing to smooth them. There`s no difference in accuracy between the woodworking and metalworking bandsaws I`ve used either at home or at work.

His approach is inspiring in a way. If you have the will and the vision then nothing keeps you from doing it. Most people think "That`s really nice.I`d like to try that but I don`t have a forge or the proper tools or"... Here`s this guy using an old plant stand,scrap rod and a weed burner to make his idea a reality. Good for him! Makes me wish I could read German so I can see what he does with the billet and more importantly what other tricks he has up his sleeve.

The main point is abdication of responsibility. We don`t want to have to watch the toddler or wear sensible footgear or and number of other common sense things when dealing with day to day situations that may be potentially harmful if we don`t put down the cell phone and pay attention. The thing about responsibility is that it doesn`t just go away,it just skips around and pops up in another form. Once a lawyer or a politician(cut from the same material IMO)decides where the responsibility will be found it has morphed from personal responsibility to financial responsibility and somebody must pay in cash for being less than attentive in the first place. Once again that abdication of responsibility kicks in and the insurance company lawyers get involved and if they lose enough money they convince the politicians to make new and better(?) laws so that they can charge more and pay out less and the end result is that a once completely fine and unquestionably beautiful piece of history such as this railing is now considered by law to be useless for it`s intended purpose.A purpose it has fulfilled admirably since before most of us were born. This is obviously a raw nerve with me. Rant off.

To me "outlaw style" is an old phrase used by the gear heads of the late 60`s/early 70`s. It meant getting it done no matter what current thinking,or sometimes the law,thought was acceptable. Most times it meant working under less than favorable conditions with less than acceptable materials and always blazing a new trail. I came from a time when custom bikes and cars were made in local garages by the guys who owned and rode them as personal statements of both their skills and their propensity to thumb their noses at conventional thinking. The way it worked was this,you couldn`t(or wouldn`t)pay someone else to do it all for you so you chose a particular skill and learned it inside and out.You practiced that skill until you were good enough that others trusted your competence and then your skills gained you entrance into the larger fraternity of builders who collectively could build something from start to finish. You bought a clapped out motor and trans and brought it to your buddy(who`s bike you made parts for) and he hotrodded it for you,maybe trying some new ideas he had been kicking around for awhile.From there you brought it across town to your friend who worked in a fabrication shop and had a torch,welder and frame jig in his garage.Between your machining skills and his fab skills you came up with and brought to life a radical new machine that surpassed anything the rest of the group had at the time.Once the grunt work was done you handed the seat off to your buddy who did crazy cool leather work and he worked together with the painter in the group to come up with a wild design to tie it all together. Everybody did their personal best and knew they could count on others to do the same when they came knocking.These were shared dreams and together we could all push the boundries alittle further. Once it was finally done you took it out to wow the guys on the streets,impress the girls and see how many tickets you could get in one night(proudly displayed on the clubhouse wall). Now THAT was "Outlaw style".Your ideas(with help from local experts) brought to life and made by hand by you and people you trusted. No engineers,architects,code inspectors or safety experts needed.

That is all just incredible work,and that includes the background pieces too. Any chance of seeing a more broad picture of the complete setting?I`m curious about how so much fine work comes to be in one place.

Instead of hand filing a square hole why didn`t you just drill it? I picked up 2 different ways to do it from my uncle and when I demonstrated it and my ability to weld with both OA torch and SMAW(stick welding)it allowed me to go directly to advanced metal shop as a freshman. Of course then I had to convince the juniors and seniors that I really belonged there.The first 2 months I thought maybe I should have just went along with the hand filing exercises again.Then I brought in the head from my friend`s Triumph motorcycle and things began to look up. B)

The runes you posted stand for;from top left-Algiz,which stands for elk or the English letter Z,it represents trusting instinct,good fortune,friendship and protection. Upper right-Kenaz,which stands for fire or the English letters C,K,Q,and X,it represents the blessings of energy,power and general good fortune. The lower center rune is;Uruz,which stands for the wild ox or the letters U or V,it represents strong will,health,vitality and unbroken spirit. All these runes are identified by the Germanic pronunciation.The old English would be Eohl-Secg,Cen and Ur from top left to bottom center. The triangle or triple triangle is not mentioned in the Elder Futhark runes. Hope that helps.

Sounds like you know your way around equipment and have worked in a metal shop.I`m guessing some modifications like Spike`s table aren`t beyond your skills so an import horizontal bandsaw may be a good fit for you.Look for one where you can easily control the speed the saw drops and you will not have to hand hold it while waiting for the cut to finish. I`ve had excellent luck using older cast iron woodworking bandsaws with quality bi-metal blades for larger work.I just fit a jackshaft to reduce the blade speed.3 phase machines can also be used with a VFD converter to control speed. Craig`s List is a good place to start but sounds like you`ve already got a line on some gear to get you started for less than $100.If the power isn`t there on the imported machines then just replace the motor or take a lighter cut. Don`t know where you live but if you were anywhere near mid coast Maine I could give you enough to get you started but you`d have to agree to take a tablesaw too(I`m overrun with table saws).

Nice work!The turtles seemed to like it too,looked like they were applauding. How do you plan to hang the pendant and on what(chain,leather,linked bar,etc)?

Let me ask a few questions to get a better idea of the type of work you plan to do and your experience level. First,can you explain the type of "freehand cutting" you`d like to do.Would this cutting involve plate or sheet and if so how large a piece?Cutting larger circles or shapes means maybe needing a larger throat and table on a bandsaw and maybe considering going to an upright saw rather than a horizontal cut off type saw with an auxiliary table attached or a portable bandsaw in a fabricated base.If cut off work involving just flat or bar stock is all you plan to do then a Porta-band may be all you need. As for the drill press,what is the approx height of the tallest work you plan to drill and do you plan to try and drill to the center of larger work?If you ever plan to drill into the top of a tall piece then a floor model would be handier than a bench model.Likewise if you foresee needing to drill to the center of larger circular pieces then either a larger drill or a drill where you can extend the head(radial drill) may be needed.Do you plan to drill a lot of holes at an angle?If so you may need at least a tilting table to make things easier. If your skill level is such that you feel comfortable either modifying machines by fabbing added supports or jigs then you can get by with simpler machines.If you are comfortable repairing old iron then you could save yourself alot of money by going that route. If you`ve been at this awhile and plan to go full time in the near future then it may pay to buy quality tools now rather than go with cheap imports that would serve a person working 1 or 2 days a month for only a couple hours a day. Is your primary focus going to be ornamental iron work or bladesmithing? The more you can narrow your focus and give us detailed info the better we can help narrow the field for equipment that will better fit you and save you money.

I worked with a fellow named Steve that everybody called "Stevie Wonder". Every time the real heavy work started it was always "Wonder where Steve took off to?".