Mainely,Bob

ptree, If someone says it`s a safety violation to wear a hardhat turned around then he`s obviously never worked around riggers,welders or worked aboard a ship. Having that bill in front obscures your view overhead,something a rigger needs to see in order to safely do his job.Other`s lives depend upon his clear view of the load path. Having that bill in the back helps keep sparks from getting under your collar and going down your back if you`re a welder.Keeping the bill in front also means the welder now must make a choice between wearing the hat or the helmet as the helmet doesn`t flip down with the bill in front. Working onboard a ship with the overhead crammed full of things like valves,cable hangers,etc means you need to be fully aware of what`s above you.See rigger paragraph for further explanation. I know the safety guys have a hard job and take some real flac for problems not of their own making.I also think you folks have to expect to fade a little heat from the guys on the deckplates. The way we see it,we KNOW management doesn`t listen to us.We KNOW we have to listen to you.We just feel that when you KNOW a safety reg or procedure is pure BS because you see it for yourself when we point it out then management should have to listen to you just like we have to. Believe me brother,you`re not the only frustrated pup in the litter.

Arftist, Everything`s debatable. When I said cast was king I was speaking of it`s stability and durability when exposed to heat.I also took into account it`s resistance to oxidation and/or corrosion relative to steel. Steel might be a better choice if your concerns are ease of fabrication and welding and you intended to line the fire pot and keep the forge under cover. There are very good and sound reasons for not restricting yourself to only one material but use both where they each excell. After burning out both steel and stainless grates in one of my forges I went with a cast iron drain grate and had no further trouble. My intention was to illustrate that there were choices and to extract further information so we could move from generalizations into more constructive advise.To truly give the best suggestions to solve things for Aral in the best way possible for him I,and I assumed others needed more information. I`d like to hear your side of the debate.I`m always willing to keep an open mind and aspire to never stop learning.I`m sure others would benefit from reading an objective view of both sides too.

Welcome to the forum,nice to see a husband and wife team here. I look forward to reading your posts and seeing your work.You`re bound to like it here,everybody`s very friendly and helpful.

Hard to say how long it will last. That depends on the fuel being used,the type of work(large,heavy forgings require more heat as does forge welding).Do you plan on using this 8-10 hours a day 5-6 days a week or just once a month for about 4-5 hours at a time?Will it be inside a building or left outside with a tarp thrown over it? Let`s start with what type of work do you plan to do and how often would you be doing it? Do you plan on using charcoal,coal or coke for fuel?The more you say about where you are headed work wise and what`s available locally for fuel or material the more we can help. It would be a shame for you to put alot of work into a nice coal forge only to find coal is a problem to get in your area and a nice natural gas forge would be a better fit or that you can get barrels of waste oil for nothing so that might have been where we should have steered you from the start.

I`m going to go out on a limb here and say there`s 2 approaches to this. 1-Build to last. Make it as strong and thick as you can,use appropriate material(like cast iron) and learn how to use it properly.Abusing anything greatly shortens it`s life. All the old large forges I`ve seen that are in good shape had cast iron fire pots either bolted or carefully fitted and free floating on a steel table plate. The smaller steel ones were lined with either firebrick or clay and still they didn`t fare near as well.The brick or clay held the moisture and rusted the steel.The throat of these small forges that survived was still cast iron,just the body of the fire pot was steel. 2-Build it for ease of maintenance. Cast is king for this type of work.If you must make it out of steel plate then line it with something(think farrier`s or rivet forge) or at least build it so that you can replace the firepot instead of trashing the entire forge. Steel+ direct,intense heat=eventual burn thru and distortion and cracked welds.Plan for this,if you make your welds in the fire pot killer strong and then weld the pot to the table plate with killer strong welds then that distortion has to go somewhere.Guess which formerly flat plate will distort making high and low spots in the formerly flat table.You`ll be replacing the fire pot when it burns out so plan to let it move without taking the table with it.

You may be a blacksmith... If you bring the rust FROM the dump instead of TO the dump. You bought a bigger truck to carry more rust. You now hide the rust so she doesn`t realize just how much there really is. She realizes half way thru the conversation that the addition she was getting excited about is for the shop. One thing I like about snow,it covers rust real well.Now if I could figure out a way to effectively hide the tire tracks she`d never know what`s under those piles.At least till spring.

Bruce, You won`t see any slugging in the shipyards in Maine,at least none that I`ve worked in. It is strictly forbidden by ABS,the Coast Guard and especially the Navy.If the vessel works offshore or carries passengers then all major structural work must pass ABS inspection. All the shipyards I worked in handled gaps and sloppy fit ups by using either ceramic backing or a steel backer bar and then the backer was cut back,the root pass gouged out and the other side welded.If ceramic or a backer bar couldn`t cover it then a new piece was cut and fit,by a competent fitter this time. I always took the approach that my welds were all that stood between people and possible death.Doesn`t make any difference whether that weld was holding a frame member on a motorcycle or a boat I built if that weld failed the results could be catastrophic for someone. All the welders I know(myself included)take thier work very seriously and always look to improve their skills and keep up their certifications and stay on top of new techniques and equipment.Those who didn`t were not welders,they were "rod burners".Just guys who knew enough to stick 2 pieces of metal together and hope they didn`t come apart before they could cash their paychecks.I`ve been on crews who had to go in and repair or salvage what was left after a "rod burner`s" work failed.If you know a process is substandard how can you in good conscience pass it off as OK or do it even once never mind more than once? Look at it this way,would you use this technique if you son or daughter had to work in that area every day afterward?If not then why is someone else`s child worth less than yours? If you still use slugging or any other questionable techniques on structure or critical weldments then my advice to you is don`t let a real welder catch you doing it,it`ll cost you your job at the very least.Many of us have family in the Coast Guard and Navy. I`ll hand the soapbox off now,I`m sure somebody else can use it. BTW-I`ve also been involved in "art projects" as a craftsman working for conceptual artists.The job shop I worked in after hours picked up a job making a large piece of art called "The rapsody of the sea" for a major cruise line`s flagship.All the material for that piece had to meet ABS spec and I had to update my certification in order to weld it. It`s my understanding that most public art of any scale requires a certified welder these day to avoid liability problems.

Bring it to Maine Oxy. When John was there as the traveling rep they used to give out loaners till yours was repaired.Doesn`t hurt to ask if that`s still the case.

It`s my understanding that 6011 was developed for AC machines.If you have a DC machine then 6010 is a better choice. Whatever supplier you get your rod from should have small handbooks that will give guidelines for appropriate size and type rod for a project.The same book will tell you approximate amperage and whether to run a DC rod either electrode positive or negative.Welding suppliers usually give these handbooks out for free or at little cost. Lincoln Electric also puts out a lot of low cost books related to all types of welding and welding projects.

Let`s just hope the buyer doesn`t find out the maker just made something that goes boom,followed by at least one larger BOOM and a flying oxy cylinder. I`m guessing that rig has never seen flashback arresters. I shudder to think there`s actually someone bidding on it.Do you suppose there`s actually someone dumb enough to try and use this Darwin Award in the making? You know he`s not bidding because it`s pretty.Let`s just hope he wants it as a gag gift.

That is just an incredible knife! The attention to detail is top drawer and the whole package is just so well balanced and visually pleasing.That is truly a knife that anyone would be proud to wear on their belt and it looks like it`s just as much of a joy to use. I look forward to the next in the series and where can I see pics of the first? Thanks for sharing this.

John, If someone on these boards can`t tell the difference between aluminum and stainless when they pick it up then I`d say they were on the wrong boards. Pretty large difference in weight for the same cross section.

WHOOAA! That looks like a pink sea urchin after the spikes fall off. I`d like to see a diver try and pick THAT one up. Gee thanks! Now you`ve got me lusting after a mega-press. Which comes first the tire hammer or the press?Anybody got a quarter?

Thomas, I just love your choice of ranking upgrade.I`m dying to upgrade to "highly trained rust chaser" but I don`t have enough posts yet. BTW-The post office was out of the small flat rate boxes so you were upgraded to the $8 and change one OK?I`m gonna have to line it with ply and then fill if I want it to stand a chance of making it to you.They allow up to 70 lbs don`t they?The postmaster general in the haba(harbor for you folks "from away")won`t tell me how much I`m allowed as he almost broke his truss when I shipped the last bunch of tools to my brother in Utah. Love those flat rate boxes! :D

Hey Jason,do you understand what the numbers on those rod cans mean? Just asking because around here 6011 is called "junkyard rod" and in most small boatyards anything goes. The most simple weld certification you can pass requires you to weld 7018 both vertical and overhead.There`s a reason for that. I once worked with an old Russian welder on the maintenance crew in an aluminum extrusion plant.He`d weld on live hydraulic lines because the foreman didn`t want to shut the press down.I refused to do the same as I like my skin the way it is as opposed to badly burned.The Russian felt I wasn`t a "real welder" as he had been getting away with welding on running presses for better than 15 years.6 months later he was up on the Mibert press welding a shear line when the operator hit the shear.The flames blew him off the press and burned a good percentage of his upper body.If his helper hadn`t slammed into him on his way down he would have snapped his neck and died when he hit the press foundation.As it was he was just crippled for life.He always used 6010 on the hydraulic lines because they were "always oily" and he didn`t want to clean them off. I feel the foreman who kept telling him to weld on running equipment because "that press makes over $1000 an hour" was at least 50% to blame for his fate.The other 50% was his own fault. I`ve worked the oil fields and in shipyards and can still count to 10 on my own fingers and have all my toes.No one has ever been hauled away in an ambulance because of anything I worked on or did.I knew when to say no and when to stand up to an ignorant foreman willing to risk others life and limb. If you want to keep all your body parts and care about your fellow workers learn what the numbers on the cans mean and also learn to tune out the foreman and do a right job you can be proud of.

On another(WW hand tool)forum I post on they ask you to post what experience you draw from when you hand out advice. The practice was started by a very experienced craftsman who`s last name is Addy.Now whenever someone suspects someone of speaking with no experience(had to think of a polite way to say that) they say "I`d like to invoke the Addy protocol". We could do the same thing here only call it the "Powers protocol". Mainely,Bob-30+ years banging iron and welding/fabbing in shipyards,yacht yards,bike shops,factories and plants only to come home and do it there too.

My friends in the guilds and local artist co-ops are reporting the same thing as my contractor friends.Things are down all over. That doesn`t stop me from asking them if they need anything on a regular basis though. There`s always the dreaded online auctions.Some folks seem to be doing good offering welded trinkets and poorly made or thought out tools so the real thing made by a real smith may go over surprisingly well(nod,nod,wink wink,say no more). Surprisingly,repairs on bronze deck hardware has gone up in demand after minimal activity for years.

Far as I know the only way to get a brushed stainless finish is to make it out of stainless and then take a brush to it. As they say on TV,"I`m detecting a pattern here". :rolleyes:

When I was a platoon sgt. I used to tell my men"There`s always a million reasons why you CAN`T do something.You just need to find one reason you CAN and run with it". I picked up that idea from an old driller I met in the Texas oilfield.I once told Clyde that a task he assigned me can`t be done.His reply;"Son there`s only two can`t around here.If you CAN`T handle it,you CAN`T stay".Needless to say the job got done after some creative engineering.

How may posts till you get "Curmudgeon" ranking?

If you`re worried about the upsetting block hanging off the side then eliminate it and upset on the anvil face using a cover plate if you`re worried about the face or put the plate on the floor and kick it under the anvil when you`re done.I like as little as possible between me and my main work area,the anvil face.I made the footprint of my base as small as possible(almost vertical) on the working side and as small as practical on the rest. If you feel you need to have the upsetting block always at hand then simply make some of the 1" steel plate you cut away from the footprint of the anvil into gussets and weld them under the overhang to reinforce it.

I would suggest using a freshly sharpened bit, low speed and an aggressive feed rate(keep the bit cutting a good chip) with cutting fluid or oil.One of the biggest mistakes made is to use too high a speed when trying to drill.Let the bit do it`s job.The larger the bit the slower the speed. If the anvil is older material or newer semi hard(or hardened) material it`s important to also keep the bit firmly engaged in the cut.Older anvils may have slag inclusions you will need to break up and power thru and newer semi hard anvils will try to resist the cutting action and chip the bit`s edge if not aggressively engaged or used dry. When too high a speed,no lube or not enough pressure is used to try and cut steel there`s always the danger of the bit just spinning and work hardening the bottom of the hole.Once hardened it`s a bear to get through with anything less than carbide. If the bit stops cutting don`t keep at it.Clear the hole and bit,look to see what`s wrong and fix the problem before you waltz yourself off into trouble using a ham handed approach.

It may not be the Titanic but if you`ve ever been thru Wiscassett Maine back a few years ago then you probably remember seeing the 2 shipwrecks that used to be right up by RT 1. Those wrecks were the Hesper and the Luther Little and were abandoned there long ago(when there was a dock there and not just pilings). The town decided to dredge up what was left of the wrecks and place all the timber on town land near the transfer station.It sat there for anyone to pick over for 2 years(I have both oak and yellow pine timbers from it) and then the town burned what was left. Long story short,I have several buckets of wrought iron decking and frame nails(1/2 and 3/4 diameter)that I would be willing to share with anyone interested enough to pay postage on a small flat rate box.They should make great historic stock for small projects or blade fittings. Who knows,if I don`t use the wrought chainplates and anchor swivel soon I may be willing to trade those off too.

Glen makes a good point about draft not being allowed to work if you don`t bring in outside air.Even the best engineered chimney is useless if you don`t supply it by cracking a door or window. For indoor forging I`ve seen some good set ups that allow the blower to draw from the outside air but once you shut down the blower that air is still being drawn in thru the forge and the fire can get out of hand unless a blast gate(think woodworking dust control)or something similar is used to shut off the air source. One of the best approaches I`ve seen up here has ducting set up to bring in outside air for both the blower and a duct set up overhead that blows down and toward the forge.A blast gate isolates and controls air to the forge and once the blower is off the overhead duct brings in air from above to keep the chimney supplied and working. Radiant heaters set up overhead and aimed at where you are actually going to work are great if you have the cash.If not then just dress in layers and shed clothes as the work progresses. I find the biggest problem I have is just getting started in sub zero temps.If I can get everything going and all the tools warm before I get a chill in my hands and up my arms then things usually go well.If I allow my hands to get chilled due to handling cold tools,iron etc then things are not going to go as well no matter how quickly I get to work and warmed back up. Don`t forget to warm ALL the tools,even those tongs you think won`t be needed if everything goes well.You`ll be needing those too,trust me.

I understand what Ed is saying.While an Acme thread is more geared toward clamping than it is punching that shouldn`t keep you from building new tools using whatever follows you home. The "Acme press" would add more control to a pressing operation due to it`s reduced velocity. It could also be used to more easily control incremental bending if a locking collar or stop nut was brought into play to limit the travel of the ram. If you`re looking for a cheap alternative to a flypress to use for punching or embossing then why not just make the manual conversion to a punch press as per instructions elsewhere on this site? If you`re in spending mode(as opposed to "followed me home" mode), may as well spend the money on a complete old machine that has multiple uses as spend it on new parts for a make do machine that may fall short of your expectations. YMMV,it usually is calculated differently than mine.