Tim McCoy

Thanks for the input!! Sometimes looking at a new piece of work created by another takes me a few minutes to sort out the process. Like most of what we do, it's been done already by someone, it's just getting to a place where I can get inside their head and use what little I understand about metal to recreate what I see. And yes, most metals against skin can create some interesting smudges and marks as the metal oxidizes. I can't wear copper because my chemistry turns my skin black in short order ... just gotta deal with it. Maybe a little gold plate over some twisted steel or perhaps do one in a mixture of titanium and bronze ... ah, the possibilities. Perrin makes some interesting bracelets using twisted titanium.

Of course no student relies on one source. That notwithstanding, the photos of finds from archeo sites are enough to satisfy any interest in style, composition and date. It is for the reader to judge what is correct/relevant or hogwash. While I find the nuances of trying to discern what life was like yesterday interesting, it frequently starts with information taken from one dimensional settings that have long lost their true meaning. But, a piece of hammered steel tells a blacksmith much about it's creation. So, for me it was a dollar more than well spent. Your points are well taken and I appreciate your input - as always. Others will have to decide what may work for them with this work. B)

These are truly a great idea. It is wonderful that something that seems simple in concept can be very elegant in use ... thanks for sharing!!

Found this book at a yard sale for $1 ... Viking Hersir 793-1066 AD Weapons-Armour-Tactics ISBN: 1-85532-318-4 Published by Osprey/Military, London Authors: Mark Harrison & Gerry Embleton 63 pages/ line drawings/ color plates/ black & white photos The authors provide a scholarly look at the history of vikings over a period of just under three hundred years. Written in a style that will suit the needs of the average reader and follows the development of "Viking" culture and provides a great deal of insight about how they really were able to influence much of European history for the last 1500 years. Of particular interest to re-enactors and especially blacksmiths are the sections related to weapons and armour (English spelling). There are many examples of swords, seax, and even a couple representations of what comprised a blacksmiths work area. Has also examples of "hack silver", pattern welding, axes, and shields. Many comparisons of sword pommels, blade styles, and maille. According to the authors Vikings never carried double bladed axes ... those arrived later in European warfare, maybe circa 1200 or later to fight mounted cavalry. I have not checked to see if it is still in publication - the copy I have is from 1993. Contact Osprey at: http://www.ospreypublishing.com/

Didn't quite know where to put this so I'll start here. I am interested in forging/creating Torcs (neck rings) ... not those with links, but those that resemble cable. Mainly interested in how to get the semi circle to remain relatively stiff ... see this link for examples: http://www.urweg.com/list/torcs.html As a guess I am under the impression that one strand of the "cable" is already thick enough to be stiff with the braided section more flexible. Any help would be appreciated. Tim

Kudos to you Dennis - your design looks great and of course the cost factor makes it a beautiful thing that you have created. Please let us see more as you do the inner coating and let us know about how it handles your work versus using the coal. Tried to use coal here but my neighbors couldn't handle it ... comes from living in the city. Going to build a gasser myself soon. Your work is always inspirational as you seem to do the familiar in an unconventional way.

Only a guess on my part but it resembles a Majestic forge ... but I don't know if they make a three burner unit. http://majesticforge.com/speciality_forges_products.html ... take a look here! Others will be along soon with better answers I bet. Tim

For a dissimilar metal connection - iron to brass, etc. look for what are called "di-electric unions". Can be found in many plumbing supply houses. They are often used in hooking up water heaters and water inlets to low pressure boilers. Joins two pipes together and features isolating insert(s) that reduces the amount of electricity created. Two dissimilar metals will expand and contract at different rates creating an electrical charge, usually measured in millivolts (its how they make thermocouples used as temp indicators - dissimilar metals bonded together permanantly). At least that is the way I remember it ... :)

Saw this article about a 4th century steel punch - thought you would find it interesting too. Article says it was broken in use. Wonder if the guy was learning heat treating and got this one wrong?? http://www.wkfinetools.com/cCorner/art/shorts/europeOldesIron.asp

Jake, It is a good thing to remake a piece of metal into another style/purpose. It seems that metal is one of the most forgiving of materials for reuse. You're piece is a testament to that. Nicely done! It's not about the scrap, but what can it become in the hands of a craftsman Tim

Thank you sir ... :D

Yes - 100% Awesome !! The video that is B)

Well said Monstermetal! We are what we do. I, like many, will defer to the men and women who have more time with the hot stuff and a hammer, but I am a blacksmith. I hit hot metal, smell the coal, try to avoid getting burned and sometimes am able to turn what I mentally see into what I physically did I am a blacksmith. Spent time today with a hammer and cold chisel cutting the ends out of 1/4 barrels to make a hood/vent pipe for my coal forge this morning. Cleaned rust and some paint off an anvil that has been loaned to me last week. Forged handles out of rebar for my tiny smithy door two weeks ago. Scrounged metal last week. Stood in my smithy this morning and counted my hammers and rearranged my chisels. Leafed through over two-hundred pages of drawings/photos and plans for tools/hinges/forges this evening before coming on this site and tomorrow I will try to make my first leaf. I have had no apprenteship, all my mentors are on this site or have written books about blacksmithing and my wife encourages me daily. I've never made a dime from hitting hot metal and may never do so. But, when someone asks what I do or what I "am" I proudly tell'm blacksmith. I only wish I had started at 22 instead of 62.

:lol:

Organic is good for the soul.

Well thought out video. Thanks for sharing how to do it. Great for a BP!

As I mentioned earlier BIGGUNDOCTOR loaned me an anvil. Photos here of some clean up I did to it: replaced stand using 5/8" plywood, reused existing straps, lightly polished face and horn, broke sharp edges on face, radiused two two edges about 2.5" long, and redrilled the pritchel where students (it's a former school anvil)had filled it with aluminum. And one photo of it in my little smithy. Tried to keep it as unchanged as possible - talked with Walt the day he dropped this off before starting any work. It has great rebound with virtually no ring ... the steel face is about 3/16" thick. It may be a Vulcan - whatever had been any markings are long gone.

Prayers up from Vegas ...

Thomas - since it is a loaner I will be gentle with all of the anvil ... as you said casting holes in horn ... both of'em about 1/8" in diameter ... not too deep. I looked at entry 110 on this thread and the anvil there looks like the sister of this one. It's a Southern Crescent ... if looks mean anything they are the same.

It's a Great Sunday ... about 9:30 AM BIGGUNDOCTOR stopped by to "drop something off". He had let me know he was going to be in town and wanted to know if I was going to be home ... once he got here he took me out to his car and there laying under a blanket was an anvil still attached to a rotting stand. He said,"until you find an anvil, I've got six and thought I'd loan this to you."... The photos will tell about the anvil, 150#, no markings, some scratching and denting on the face/horn/cutting plate, small chips at some edges, clean hardy hole and a filled pritchell. Oh, and some green paint residue and like I said, the base is rotting away. Walt says his Dad bought it from a school in Cali a long time ago. It has a school department tag attached between the rear feet. He believes it may be a Vulcan, but no logos are visible on it. It has a really thin plate on the face ... does have a "15" cast on the front between the feet. When I started to be interested in blacksmithing I, like many of you, looked around on the internet for a while and found IFI. Held my breath and ventured in and asked questions,took some kidding at some of them too and found many friends. Publicly and privately I have had wonderful support. And I have been the recipient of several acts of kindness this being one of them. No words can express what I feel, but I am sure many of you too have been treated well ... so I'll make another stand and clean the face and top of the horn just a bit and find someway to pay it forward. Enjoy the photos of BIGGUNDOCTOR's loaner anvil ... Thanks Walt!! :D

If I may, round conduits/pipe/vents always improve flow ... in smaller and in larger sizes. Square makes for constrictions and dead spots and causes a larger surface area which creates drag on the medium being moved, thereby slowing movement. Angles in the vent pipe hurt too. Whether it is fluid or a gas, smooth and straight is always better. There are some complicated math formulas that explain all this. Also, depending on the construction method, round can be easier to put together. Experience has taught many blacksmiths that a square or rectangle collector will work fine, but having a straight round pipe speeds things along and helps create the "super sucker" everyone looks for.

All good thoughts - but maybe beyond this thread. Never-the-less, when I sold insurance one of the thoughts that I shared with potential buyers was, "this is one of the things in life you cannot get once you need it. It must be in place before hand. Once you need it, it is too late to get some." Every day people make decisions about self-insuring by figuring out what the odds are that they will lose something and then not getting the appropriate coverage. Their guess is always good as long as no fires, earthquakes, floods, car crashes, or accidents happen. Insurance companies, like people, are fickle sometimes. As a former insurance agent I would caution anyone that whatever your agent may tell you is suspect. He can only bind certain losses in the field and the "home office" always reserves the right to over ride anything the agent said. Read your policy and when in doubt get a written answer from the issuing company's underwriters, not the agent. Cuts down on the surprises after the fire Now, let's talk about welding.

Steve, Appreciate your input ... real electrician lined up. I rewire lamps, kids toys and some of the stuff in my car - nothin' else And I used to be an insurance agent so I know the rules about home insurance and coverage ... soon we have sparks!

I agree with the others about a lighter hammer to start with. I have a 2# double faced pein hammer that gets used most ... found it at a yard sale for about $2 ... many of the older blacksmith books will have ball pein hammers in their illustrations. Practice hitting a lot to get the muscle memory you need for your blows to be second nature. Go slow first to get control and once you do your skill/speed will increase. Buy cheap, scrounge always and have fun!

Maddog Thanks for the input ... Meancoyote was kind enough to front me 62' of 1/0 cable for the Century welder along with a bag of other goodies for work I will help him with once the Vegas weather stays below 100. Thanks Meancoyote!!! I made a 25' stinger lead and a 20' work lead ... had to buy 2 Lenco hp-10 connectors, a stinger, and now the unit sets under a welding table that I have cobbled together. I will seldom need to move the welder as most of any work that I will do will be small projects. Just waiting for my next allowance issue from the spousal unit to get the 220 installed in the garage. Yes the welder is heavy ... like everything else I have gathered together to learn to be a blacksmith. Next project is to install a $2 amp selector switch rod, a new power cord and stinger on a Lincoln AC/DC 225 that I picked up for $20 I love CL and yard sales!!! Photos once we're done.