Tim McCoy

Found a vise that can probably withstand anyone's hammering :lol: priced to sell too! http://lasvegas.craigslist.org/tls/2858742255.html

Go this link for "Show Me Your Forge" ... many good ideas! http://www.iforgeiron.com/topic/3836-show-me-your-forge-solid-fuel/

Welcome to IFI - good luck as you get started - search with the follwoing words: forge, firepot, super sucker, portable forge, coal, coke and tuyere. Links to follow- Tim

Very distinctive! Like the way you handled the horns by bringing them down and out of the way.

Ditto on the fire extinguisher - haven't seen one like this in years

Very well done Stormcrow - Love the handle finish!

Dallas, sounds like you had fun while learning - great start!

Isn't the initial result of what you are doing something some of us refer to as "fishmouth"? Seems to work great whatever it is - I'll try it soon.

Here's alink to a previous thread about a standard concrete anvil stand - hope it helps you! Tim http://www.iforgeiron.com/topic/21414-weekend-project-anvil-stands/page__fromsearch__1

On second thought, maybe some of us get angry/frustrated because we feel that the guy who has the stash makes it harder for the rest of us to have one too. Having the wherewithall to hoard blacksmith stuff does act as a form of preservation. Like has been mentioned elsewhere here, you can't always get what you want, but if you try sometimes . . . keep searching!

VaughnT Probably most any added material will work - more rebar, chunks of concrete, etc. The rebar sticking out the sides is actually about 3" long - with my toes against the block they won't touch the shins. They aren't necessary of course, just something I thought I would try. Can always cut them off if they offend in any way The cement as bagged is about 5% rock and the rest is the portland cement, etc. This set up has different structural needs than say a sidewalk or a pillar supporting weight. Almost all of the force used to strike with will go downward. If you could see the bottom of the base you would see that the base of the round bar is flush with the base of concrete block. The block provides a suitable base that won't move much ... the 120# anvil is heavy enough alone to strike against - supposedly works like an London pattern anvil of 3 times the weight of the steel round.

Now comes the work - I mixed a little over 3 60# bags of cement and poured it into the form. Mixed everything just a little wet to allow the old man to work slower. After three days I knocked the form off and have been waiting for this thing to get dry ... won't hit it until it has set for at least 30 days. With the forms off the block/base has no external attachments to act as a bottom or sides. It's just a concrete block. I will "finish" this by grinding the tabs on the through bars so that they aren't spear points. And I will grind the upper edges of the upright handles to allow them to be struck if needed and not leave grooves in the hot metal. I left the top of the block unfinished to allow for a rough surface thereby making it hard for items I lay on it to roll away. This is one way to create a heavy alternate to a regular anvil - weighs about 300# as it sets. Seems to be drying nicely, no cracks. My intention is to paint the block/base a flat black. No paint on the bar. This set up allows me to have a heavy, stable working/striking surface. Comments are always welcome ... more once I get it finished.

So, I cut the bar the cheap the way and it took several hours over several days ... actually had to cut both ends as this was a piece that was flame cut from a longer bar. Once I had my "stabilizer" in place I cut some old cement forming plywood to make a box that is approx 12 x 12 x 18" as a form for my base. I placed two cross pieces of 5/8" rebar and various other pieces of smaller rebar to provide some internal strength (no photo of that). I set the bar onto 1/2" plywood with a large plastic bag on it. No bottom to the base - you see what I did in the photos. Also set into the box two 5/8" pieces rebar bent to reach from the bottom of the base to sitck up above top of concrete to allow for lifting points and perhaps metal bending points. The two through rods were left about 3" proud of the sides for more lifting choices and/or bending points. The bar weighs approx 120"

I hope that I have placed this in the correct forum. I have a 4.25 x 29" round bar that I have spark tested. It seems to be medium high carbon and is hard as heck to grind. Bought at scrap yard for 25 cents/pound 18 months ago. I cut enough off the original length to get the 29" leftover. Cut it with a hand powered hacksaw. After much thought, I decided to mount it in a block of concrete. The photos explain more than I can write here ... cutting, and adding a piece to help prevent the bar from turning while being hit ... the plate I attached is held on with all-thread rod bolted through a 1/2" plate. The all-thread tends to bite into the steel bar (not much, but enough) to help keep the plate in place - the concrete will also help the plate remain where I put it ... plate will be near the bottom of the bar once it is set. More in next posting.

I believe that steel has molucules that are closer together and contains a higher carbon content than most all cast or wrought iron. That allows the compression that occurs when you strike it to rebound (equal/oposite reaction) with more force. The force of the striking hammer coupled with the rebounding force is what "works" the metal you are beating and changes its shape. There are lots of math formulae that explain this. Cast iron, and ductile iron are not as hard as cast steel or most tool steels. Yes some anvil makers in the past made London pattern anvils by either forging a steel plate on top of wrought iron or cast iron body - thereby creating a hard surface that would last longer with less deformation ... it seems that now most all larger anvil manfacturers make their smackers from cast steel - saves time in production apparently thereby saving costs. There are many threads here about alternates to the more familiar london pattern anvils ... most will work for many purposes, its just like is mentioned above, the London pattern is the swiss knife of anvils and has been proven over the last couple hundred years. There also a couple threads about making/forging your own London pattern anvil ... If I remember correctly no one who has done this suggests it as a profitable way to go for a one off unit.

I found this thread way too late - after viewing it twice I know that I will never again complain about how to work the normal sized pieces I try. An excellent tutorial that should be required viewing for first time blacksmiths. Like the larger than life mechanical displays used in the military for weaponry and armoured vehicles that make installation and maintenance of pieces and parts easier; this thread makes something like forging and installing a rivet on regular work look like childs play. And if someone can fuller steel that large how could I have trouble with making a hammer? Well done and thank you for being willing to share Michael!

Sometimes a work is posted here that transcends what might be called "excellent" in it's creativity and skill level. Most people would never believe that metal could be worked so well, with such expressiveness. From the turned head to the treatment of the cross, you have made something that demands our attention whether we have any religious leanings or not. Yes, I am impressed !

Wonderful :D

My location is shown on my profile page ... no idea why it isn't shown with my posts?

Sorry Ferrous, didn't notice my location wasn't on the page ... Las Vegas, NV

Makes one wonder what is being done lately that is equal - thanks for the posting!!

Strong looking piece, fitting for any man. The "rough" look of it tends to make it appear antique or ancient - Celtic maybe. Really well done. Your talent is showing through :D

Wonderful story and an even more wonderful sword - your work never ceases to amaze!!

How is it possible to keep the hex shape throughout the thinner part of the head? Is the hex shape forged after the waist of the hammer ends are forged?? You have a beatiful hammer there!

Thanks Big Red ... once I have it completed I'll post photos in it's own thread ... about 3 weeks.