clinton

here are some more pictures of the jig set up I will have the rest of the parts on monday I will begin welding, I got the wire feeder on a track above the bench so no draging the welder around, I wanted to build a boom that swings out , but the boss wanted this track system so thats what we got

I am not sure what to do with it may use it to store my coal in but its kinda big, with all the holes in it I am not sure what to use it for as far as wrought iron it has holes every 4 inches for the bolts

Ironstein- it does make some noise but I doubt there are any dishes rattling, I am not pounding on stuff till 3 in the morning either Fe- get hammering on that thing or I will have to come up there and break it in myself! (insert smiley face)

Did a little test run on the hammer last night, one of my buddies wanted a fire poker so I had a horse head that I made out of 3/4'' stock and I forged a taper and split the end for the poker, the hammer did a pretty good job I still need to do a little more work on the keeper for the top die it worked itself loose a couple of times. I am very happy with the dies, thank you Fewood for all the work that you put into them. This picture is a little fuzzy, it was getting dark by the time I finished working on this

Ya be careful what you ask for, it looks like it came out good, just real small and you do need a handle to hold a tool like this, I made a groove in my touchmark and wrapped a piece of round stock around it this way I can turn the touch mark around, makes it easy to position

We have this job to fabricate some deck supports for a custom house, the material is 316 stainless, 1/2 inch thick. The supports are 14 feet long and they start out at 17 inches wide then taper to 9 inches. The main web is beveled at 45 degrees on both sides with a 1/4 inch land to allow for a partial penetration weld, this gets a 4 inch by 1/2 inch flat bar welded to form what looks like one side of an I beam with a square corner. We are in the process of building the jig and hold downs for this, the hold downs will weld to the table and then wedges will be installed to lock everything down. The plan is to weld a little bit at a time keeping it cool to control distortion, but I am concerned that all the welding down one side will turn this thing into a banana, the hold downs are 1 inch plate and will be installed every 12 inches and the work bench is 5/8 thick plate with heavy construction and several thousand pounds of material stacked under to hold it down. Here are some pictures of the jig so far also the Lincoln 400 amp welder that we just picked up to do the job ($400 on craigslist) with Ln-7 wire feed, I opened it up and it was clean as a whistle inside we are running a three phase circuit today I can't wait to lay down some beads with this unit I know these are some sweet welders

my neighbor had this wine press (I think that's what it is) looks pretty old forged ring 3 feet in dia and stands 2 1/2 feet tall has bolts 3 inches on center, she is moving and said that I could have it, I gave her 50 bucks as it has to be worth something and I am sure she will need the money for moving

That's what I thought, I was looking at the brigeport at work and it does have the x-y tilt and I did not think that Fe's machine did I can post some pictures of the water jet, we cut stuff every day, on saturday we put a 20' x 5' 1/2'' thick piece of 316 stainless on there to be cut for deck supports for a custom house, amazing machines the Foreman told me he has cut 6'' thick steel, the hardest stuff he worked was some kind of carbide panel that is used for armour on helicopters and such, took 45 min to cut 1 1/2'' and the stuff is only 3/8'' thick

Hey Larry, where do you get your babbit material? I am going to need to pour new babbit for my commonsense hammer in the near future

Tilt the head sounds like a great option I will have too look into that for the next set of dies, (I myself don't know jack about mills) Thanks for the input guys, I got tied up with all the mothers day stuff yesterday so I never got to forge anything but I will have some time after work this week, I gave it a dry run and it looks like every thing is good, I was not sure how tall to make the dies and they ended up being about 5/8'' taller

Looking good Fe, after you pour the bar how do you get it thin enough to spin? A roll mill? More pictures dude

Ok time to bring this post back from the dead...... With the help of Fewood and his Bridgeport mill we got the dove tails cut on the dies it was a 9 degree angle for this hammer. After the dove tails were done we cut the piece in half and attempted to rough in the fullering side on the dies, we got one side roughed in and hat to turn the die around for the other side, made one pass, then stated to go a bit deeper and the die slipped out of the vice completely ruining the carbide end mill. So my plan was to make a fixture to hold the die at the proper angle and get a new end mill to finish the job, but mean while i found a new friend that has 4 water jet machines and got the rough in done on the water jet. Here are a few shots of the dies Grant, try not to hurt your self laughing at the wooden shims we are carpenters (well Fe is I am more of a welder myself) and fe would not let me near the mill with the stinger, and I think I will be able to draw like a Psychobabblonian, hope to try the hammer out today

If you can weld with oxy-acetylene then you should be able to tig weld as well (both use the same method of adding filler rod) The school where i learned we made a box using 1x4 strips, tack them all together then weld each side in position, so you get your flat, horizontal, vertical and over head. Then add tubing on each side. We used 16 gage material, this is a good way to practice technique also part of your problem may be contamination tig welding needs to be clean any oil or rust or paint and you will have issues

The 110 v welders will run fine on a 15 amp circuit, 20 amp is better but 15 amp will work I assure you we do it all the time with 100 feet of extension cord as well and ironstein is correct you do see more new millers in the field, they are better quality machines, although the older lincolns are lighter and they will take alot of abuse and I prefer them to all others myself, when you have to pull that machine up four levels of scaffolding first thing in the morning an extra 7 lbs makes a big difference

The cylinder is double acting right? The unit goes forward and reverse? the 10,000 psi wold prob be a better choice, bigger is better as long as the pump can handle the volume, keep us posted with your build, I have my eye on a self contained unit right now, it is on a giant kiln used to open the doors on each end, just waiting for the guy to part out the unit, its not ever going to be used

I spent a few hours at the forge yesterday I wanted to make some lilies and was planning to do ten of them, but ended up with eight. I tried a few different ways of doing this, first I drew the tapper, then separated the stem and drew out, leaving the mass for the flower to be forged last. Next I tried to separate the material for the flower and then tapper, flatten and use cross pein to spread out the flower, then just get it to close up and finish over the horn. Separating the material before the tapper seems to work better for me I can keep the flower shorter this way and when you spread it out with the cross pein you can get it nice and wide, gives a nice finished shape. I used my home built anvil with the fullering die to spread out the flower, and I found that if you put a 90 degree bend in the stem you can run it across the die going straight back and forth (gives you both sides without having to turn the piece around)

I am going to go out on a limb here but I am going to say it looks like (drum roll) a big ol rusty anvil Oh ya and its on a stump, quite possibly a wooden stump (pretty sure on the stump)

http://gadi.agric.za/software/renting/pulley.php try this for pulley size

Watch craigslist for a used one, they often do not see much use and I have found that the older lincoln machines are far better than the new ones they sell, look for an older lncoln SP 100 or SP135, some have the gas solenoid installed (just look at the back of the machine if there is a copper fitting sticking out it has it) I use my SP 100 for lots of small jobs using innershield wire, got a job repairing a water tank and it paid for its self that day. If I was going to buy a new machine I would most likely get a miller, they are a bit heavier than the older Lincolns but the quality is better than the new Lincolns

We are just over a month away from the Abana conference in Memphis June 2-5 I know that I am going to be there, and was wondering who else is planning to attend, maybe we could meet up there.

wow that is sweet, they probably will sell it fast thats alot of stuff

They look awesome ironstein what are you going to do with all these spurs? Cowboy UP!

Wow I forgot to bid and the auction has ended Bummer, oh well I guess I will go swill a couple of fosters and drown my sorrows and to think that I could have had something "forged" by one of the two remaining blacksmiths in the land of Oz, this is rough! Maybe a six pack

old welders never die they just keep on buzzin, they don't make them like that anymore

probably add one too many fosters, eye reckon must have bumped his head