Matt,
I use commercial grade materials to construct thin shell ceramic molds. I melt/burn out the wax with a torch. It's quick and easy with the thin shell. Just make sure you have adequate exhaust (or do outside) as there will be much smoke.
Pick a wax based on how you will model and carve it; not on how it melts. You have to get the temperature up to a point that any wax will melt anyway.
The manufacturer is Wayne Forge and Machine Company of Toronto, Ontario (that's Canada; not Cali). I Googled that with no results. I'm told it's a bout 42" tall and the firebox is 7x7".
Someone must recognize this...if it's useful in forge work or casting I'd pick it up.
David,
The design is beautiful and the execution is superb. I can see why the customer wanted the side mount; to not interfere with the tiled surfaces. The "mini-belly" portion of the picket is quite clever in this application.
Dave
Yup. I don't see the "sadness" in the collection. It's a fraction of the total number existing in the country today...and, as was pointed out earlier...they're in a dry climate; not wasting away in gardens and barns and sheds like so many others.
Dave
Great idea Ken!
KY, the tool looks excellent. Seems very tall though, but you mentioned having to work with the materials at hand...just wondering if this might cause any problems...ie) hard to strike accurately with force etc?
Dave
Thanks for the info guys. I'll have to do a side by side comparison of the mild vs. high carbon steel. I'm sure the average person wouldn't notice as the gongs are as much a novelty as a functional piece. But, I would know and I'd like to get a better sound than what I've got now.
Dave
Thanks Phil,
I've made similar dinner gongs from mild steel...the sound is OK but not great.
I'd try the coil but it would take 3 times longer to straighten enough stock than it would make the gong...that guy must have time on his hands...ha!
Dave
I also made a selection of sizes when I was starting out. These range from about 3/8 to 1-1/2" width.
Take note of what John said about getting the tines parallel. I made this mistake on a hardie fork. I used it a number of times on 1/4 to 1/2 bars with no problems. Then I was working some 1-1/2 x 1/4 flat bar and it really was noticable.
Good luck!
Dave
I'll confirm what was said in the previous post...flux core welds are not inferior to MIG welds. Also the surface appearance is not inferior; but there is slag created so you spend more time cleaning them up to get there.
The comment about deeper penetration is correct. If you're most familiar with MIG welding you'll need to dial down the amps compared to what you're used to.
The draw back to the no-gas flux core wire is that the materials need to be very clean to avoid porosity.
I use no-gas flux core wire exclusively because the amount I weld has not warranted getting a gas bottle. The cost per lb is more than the solid wire but it gets the job done and you should have no concerns. I would suggest using a quality brand of wire.
Good luck!
I have no idea what the proper answers to your inquiries might be...but by asking, you have revealed a guilty conscience...do what you think is best...