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Micarta question...


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First, I am the google master. In researching the various aspects of bladesmithing, I've come across a HUGE number of tutorials ranging from making wire damascus to mokume. But one of the most interesting things I've found is how to make micarta (click here).

I've got friends that have made micarta from linen, denim, flannel, even old army camo. So I was wondering if anyone out there has used materials OTHER than fabric? Granted it wouldn't be "micarta", but it would be interesting nonetheless. What about leaves? Pine straw? Spanish moss?

Thoughts?

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I've got friends that have made micarta from linen, denim, flannel, even old army camo. So I was wondering if anyone out there has used materials OTHER than fabric? Granted it wouldn't be "micarta", but it would be interesting nonetheless. What about leaves? Pine straw? Spanish moss?

Thoughts?


There is also paper micarta that is factory produced, don't forget about that. Theoretically you could imbed a good number of things in resin and come up with all manner of things, but thats probably easier said than done. If you are wanting to use organic materials like you mentioned, you would firstly have to ensure that they are completly dry, but in that case, things like dry leaves and such become fairly brittle and as soon as you start trying to layer resin with them, will most likley fall apart, so I am not sure how exactly that would turn out. Cloth works well because it is easily layered, and will stretch/conform to things decently. The reasoning behind micarta was the need for a strong synthetic material, resin by itself is fairly brittle, but with the cloth layers to add a bit of flexibility and something to hold the resin together, it creates a very strong material, kind of like adding rebar to concrete. I wouldnt think leaves or the like would hold up that well. Thats my thought anyway. Maybe something like reeds, or birtch bark would work though. I have heard of guys taking things like synthetic sponges and impregnating them with resin and squishing them in a press to give some interesting results. You can always give it a try though ;) , you never know what you might come up with.
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carbon fibre and glass fibre fabrics are common to use. The glass fibre is pretty clear, so you can pigment the resin (I've seen some that has glow in teh dark powder added, so the handle glows!)

I remember one guy saying he had made some from the shed hair of his dead dog! Not sure I fancy that one myself though.

Rope works well. some strands of heavy hemp rope pressed works.

I've been meaning to have a play with some things but its too cold here at teh moment (I have to warm the resin up before I can get it out of the can!)

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Do you think the fiber glass resin is expensive?


Not hardly. In fact, it's VERY easy to come by so long as you have an auto parts dealer in town, like Autozone or O'Reilly. You can probably even pick it up at the local hardware store, like Ace or Home Depot or Lowe's.

You just need to remember one word... Bondo ;)

Bondo Fiberglass Resin Repair Kits
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  • 2 weeks later...
  • 4 weeks later...

strantor, thanks for the kind reviews. Starting materials were a couple of new kitchen hand towels; one in black and one a light tan color.

To me the most interesting aspect of this whole process are the final outcomes from each of the starting materials used. Some colors change slightly (usually darker) while others seem to have a mind of their own. Examples: medium shades of blue just get black, but bright reds may result somewhere between almost black to purples to pinks. A light tan denim (nutmeg or cinnamon) did result in a block that closely resembled walnut hardwood. Blue jean denim and baler twine did not change colors, but did make for a nice color contrasting and patterned block.

As this thread's original question asked what other types of materials can be used, I am planning to move my R&D into organic type materials such as corn, dried beans, rice, etc. Also plan on trying resin color pigments and various types of dyes/paints on starting materials.

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  • 1 month later...

Ok. Stan etal. I followed the directions from british blades. I bought new denim 'cause I was too lazy to decide which jeans to demo. Plus it was probably easier to cut the strips. I didn't wash it, and now thing maybe I should have? Anyway, I used the bondo polyester resin shown on the demo. I had Mike-hr help me, I gloved up and appplied succesive strips while he used a chip brush to apply the resin. We got a stack about 1 1/2" high, then put it in the hydraulic press and squished it 'til cured. It didn't work out so well. I'm wondering if we used too much pressure. I sawed a couple of slabs out of it and last night went to start sanding/shaping and noticed the material delaminating a little bit. Also, you can't really polish or sand this stuff, it's too fuzzy. any idears for me? Should I try again with only c-clamps? lots of resin oozed out, so I think we had plenty in there, just maybe squished too much out? I just finished a santuko blade from O-1 and was hoping to use some denim micarta and copper rivets for a somewhat dishwasher safe handle. Ideas? Help?

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too much pressure does cause problems, I started off with a small hydraulic press (bottle jack) but didn't have much luck. Now I just use G-cramps and good hand pressure. too much pressure can either push all the resin out (delamination) or compress it into a featureless block of super hard super heavy stuff, but I've only seen that one happen once! I've had the layers coming apart from too much pressure and through not washing new fabric. New fabrics have a closed surface from teh rollers that iron the cloth essentially, so the washing opens it up for the resin to get into

The fluffiness normally subsides when you get down to the finer grits but you can get around it altogether by using thinner resin or just coat the handle in superglue once shaped but before you sand it. The superglue will fill the fibres at the surface and allow a glass like finish. I tend to go for the superglue as thinner resins seem to be either faster curing or expensive :(

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Thanks Dave. I'll give it another go with just c-clamps. You Britts have all the coolest tools, I've never run across a single G-cramp here in the states! Just kidding. I do have a large bottle of CA so that's where I'll go with the final sanding/polishing. Darn. That means I'm 3 or 4 days minimum out from finishing this knife. I really want to put an edge to this thing and see how it works. Oh well, I need to get some finer grit 2x72 belts for final polish anyway. Might as well do it right.

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Some new materials have a "sizing" type coating that can cause a few problems. Just as a seamstress will prewash a new fabric before cutting and sewing, prewashing new denim may have to be considered too when used in Micarta batches. R&D will only determine that.

I prefab molds from light cardboard (cereal boxes, etc) to dimensions that are bigger than finished product needs. Tape all corners for strength and line with plastic wrap. As working time of resin is limited I work fast. Pour some resin in bottom of mold, add a precut piece of material and work it flat into mold bottom with a finger (gloves on of course). Excess resin floats up during building process. Add another piece of material, finger smooth, continue. Add more resin as needed between fabric sheets. Continue layering process till mold is over filled past top. Bring all excess plastic wrap up and over top of stack. Have ready 2 pieces of board cut larger than mold size; place 1 board under mold and 1 on top. Use C clamp(s) to press top board down even with mold top. That should allow for enough material compression. Excess resin is still trapped within confines of materials and plastic wrap, thus can still soak into block before hardening if it can find any voids. If by chance any resin leaks from plastic wrap it will bond with the c'board mold; it is considered expendable and easily sawed, ground, or sanded away during final processing.

Hope this helps shed a little more light on the subject. Have fun with your R&D and good luck with your knife project. Stan

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Thanks Dave. I'll give it another go with just c-clamps. You Britts have all the coolest tools, I've never run across a single G-cramp here in the states! Just kidding. I do have a large bottle of CA so that's where I'll go with the final sanding/polishing. Darn. That means I'm 3 or 4 days minimum out from finishing this knife. I really want to put an edge to this thing and see how it works. Oh well, I need to get some finer grit 2x72 belts for final polish anyway. Might as well do it right.


you lot just have lots of phalic tools. My anvil has a beak whilst yours gets it's own horn! ;)

I don't have much in the way of grinding gear, so I just do my rough shaping with 60grit belts and then move to hand papers. I normally get the CA on once I've hand rubbed to 120 grit as that is the final shape with all corners nicely rounded before I refine the finish. If I just sand and don't glue I get a textured effect where the unsaturated fibres are rubbed away from the resin filled masses. Gives it a different look and feel. Or you could just rub to a coarse finish and leave it as a really tactile grippy handle ;)
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Dave,
Touche (sp?). Tru Dat. Will let you all know how it turns out once complete.

Stan,
Thanks for the additional intel. My wife (she must never know) may have been right. When I started cutting it up she said (and I quote) "Aren't you going to wash that first?" "You should probably wash that first." That'll teach me to tell her to "leave me alone, I know what I'm doing" when it comes to fabric!!!

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When I started this Micarta R&D my wife told me that her rotary fabric cutter and mat she uses for quilting purposes were off limits to me........
so I bought my own set just to be diplomatic.
Could be why we are still married with our 30th anniversary coming next month.

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