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Spring Fuller


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I needed a little fuller for dividing my work up when making a compass.  Instead of welding a shaft to it to fit in the hardy hole, I made a bend so that it would lock into the hardy hole at an angle.  Also, I decided I would make it look like a duck head, hence my duck head spring fuller. :)  As you can see the hardy insert is bent 45 degrees so that it locks in and wont twist.  The fuller is situated to rest on the near side of the anvil.  Seems to work pretty well.

 

Matthew

 

 

duckheadspringfuller2.thumb.jpg.3ba95653duckheadspringfuller3.thumb.jpg.eed4e87dduckheadspringfuller1.thumb.jpg.ae789e4a

Made this from an old 70 HM Evenrude shifting rod.  

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8 hours ago, forging-fool said:

I find if you make the the section for the hardy hole longer, then bend it back on it's self but at a 90 degree to the first bend. You have enough mass to forgeweld it and forge it down to a snug fit for your hardy hole. Gives you a more stable tool. 

 

Even more stable is if you leave it as is and make a wooden wedge to drive through the gap and under the heel and wedge it down tight against the anvil. Zero play in the tool. 

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3 hours ago, Crazy Ivan said:

 

Even more stable is if you leave it as is and make a wooden wedge to drive through the gap and under the heel and wedge it down tight against the anvil. Zero play in the tool. 

I would imagine it would be. But you would lose the benefit of being able to quick change the tooling I'd guess.

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4 hours ago, forging-fool said:

I would imagine it would be. But you would lose the benefit of being able to quick change the tooling I'd guess.

Nope, just bump the wedge out with 1 tap of the hammer and the tool pops right out. It doesn't take any longer than pulling the hardy out. Bump with your hammer and pull it out. One move, two hands and on to the next one. 

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Greetings Matthew,

Pictured is a fuller that I have my students make along with a few bending forks to make the scrolls and other things. Notice how the fuller fits in the hardi . It is also designed with a guide on one side to aid the top bar to stay streight.. Just a thought you may want to try.  Have fun.

Forge on and make beautiful things

Jim

image.jpeg

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Jim coke, those are some nice looking scrolls. would you mind giving a brief explanation of how you made them? sorry if this is a question that the answer is clear, I don't do a ton scroll work.

                                                                                             Littleblacksmith

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Greetings Lilblacksmith, 

     I don't know if there is a proper name for the scrolls but I call them transverse because they change directions from the original bar.. It is an aquired skill to make them and takes a bit of practice.. It's the same as forging a blade but forming it in a scroll form.. It's very difficult to describe in words so just start with a chunk of 1/4x 3/4 and give it a try.. Just use the picture as a guide. Post your progress and if I have some time I will try to form up a few in stages so you could see the procedure.. Good luck and keep up the good work..

Forge on and make beautiful things

Jim

 

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9 hours ago, Jim Coke said:

Greetings Lilblacksmith, 

     .. It's the same as forging a blade but forming it in a scroll form..

So as in blade, do you mean knife blade or like a cattail blade? I guese there isnt munch difference......

                                                                                   Littleblacksmith 

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Jim,  Thank you for the photo.  That is a very clever design for the spring fuller.  Thank you for sharing.

The scrolls are very beautiful and quite artistic! I would love to hear more how you make them.  Looks like others are interested as well.  Would you mind starting a topic on that?

 

D.C.,  Thanks for the compliment.  My next set will be better.   I like the duck head design and will keep with it.  Functional art is always pretty cool.

 

Forging,  I was having a hard time understanding what you meant by making the insert longer and bending it back on itself, but after Jim posted his photo, your comment totally makes sense. Is that what you were referring too?  Seems like I could do that for just about any size of spring fuller and then forge it down to fit snugly into the hardy hole, right?

Thanks for all the comments.  I really like this forum with all the helpful members!

Matthew

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