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Kinyon / Emmerling Style Hammer


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#1 CHPerdue

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Posted 30 January 2012 - 07:06 PM

Well got the build under way on the hammer that will replace my Old Broke LG50#. I placed the orders for a parts list I got from the Kinyon New style Mark II with the John Emmerling/Kean Randle head style. John said we could use his design, which I think has changed by now. This one will do me great for what I do now so, full steam ahead. I have been Blacksmithing full time since 1991 and for about 10 years before that part time. So I'm not a cherry about this but I always look for a better way so please make comments as you wish.
This friday I got some of the parts so this weekend I got most of the machine work done on the slide blocks, top and bottom pieces for the hamer part. I'm using Bronze bushing like John E. did and the rods are 4340 Ground and polished, they are a Rc26 so you can machine and drill on them.
The Rods are 2" dia the blocks are 2"x4x6 with a bore to fit a 2 1/4 bronze bushing with .001 press fit. If I need to open them up a little I will use a line bore hone. The top plate is 1"x4"x6" and and has 2"x.333 cut outs to accept the slide rods. The top plate has 5/8" holes to bolt the plate to the 5/8-11 threads that where put in the ends.
The Bottom plate has 2" holes all the way through and is 3/4"x4"x6" and will get plug welded so the top die block which is 6"x3.5" round 1045 steel, can be welled to the hammer head bottom plate. I will press in the bushing tomorrow and put most of it together so you can see how I plan to do this. I weighed the parts less the rod to weld it and it will be about 100# so that will be great.
Thanks
CH
Attached File  KinronEmmerly hammer2.JPG   82.02KB   219 downloads
Attached File  KinyonEmmerly hammer3.JPG   81.33KB   252 downloads
Attached File  KinyonEmmerly hammer.JPG   93.24KB   191 downloads
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#2 Daniel.85

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Posted 30 January 2012 - 10:08 PM

Nicely machined parts are always fun to have, good luck on the build! keep us updated with pics if you can.

#3 dkunkler

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Posted 30 January 2012 - 10:49 PM

John's name is spelled Emmerling. I saw a video of his hammer, it looks like a nice tight guide system. I think you've got a really good start on your build.

#4 CHPerdue

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Posted 30 January 2012 - 11:28 PM

John's name is spelled Emmerling. I saw a video of his hammer, it looks like a nice tight guide system. I think you've got a really good start on your build.

Yea I know but you can't edit a goof on the title. I posted from the computer in my shop. It has about 3 or 4 missing keys. My bad all the way, I need to proof read before posting.
Sorry John.
CH
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#5 CHPerdue

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Posted 01 February 2012 - 10:40 PM

Well short update on my Kinyon/Emmerling/Randle type hammer. The blocks where all CNC machined and I pressed in the bushings and nothing fit. The blocks where to tight and would not slide with the end plate on. So it was back to the machines to line hone the blocks and the bottom end plate with the holes for the rods. If there is any concern about the ware of the bushings don't, It took amost an hour to open up the bushings .001 clearance so the blocks would slide with ease. I think when the bushings are press fit they deform and any and I mean any misalignment in the long bearing surface of the 2" block and they hang up. All the blocks and plates where squared up on the CNC and then bored but they is still a slight misalignment from top to bottom. After the welding for the side plates and blocks "I may have to do the final line hone again to make sure that any tightness don't jam the hammer head. I'm thinking two 1/2" bushings in each hole on the blocks may work better than one 2" long bushing? We'll just have to see how it goes from here. I'm worried that if the head is removed later from the hammer it will be a bear to get back in the bushing? Anyway here is the head read for the bottom plate to be welded and the side plates to the 2" blocks.
HH
CH

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#6 jeremy k

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Posted 01 February 2012 - 10:53 PM

I wish I had the machinery to make pretty parts like that.

#7 peacock

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Posted 02 February 2012 - 08:28 AM

Beautiful work, but save your self alot of trouble and open up your clearence. When you weld, bolt and otherwise assemble the distortion you cerate wiil need more clearence. This is a hammer not a racing engine. If it binds at all it will slow down the cycle time at best, at worst it won't move at all. No one enjoys great machineing more than I do, But going back and redoing several times can take all the fun out of a great build like this one.

#8 CHPerdue

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Posted 02 February 2012 - 11:34 AM

Hi Peacock
Thanks for the input. I don't have a set of plans for this hammer head design, or assembly plans so I'm kinda flying by the seat of my pants here. I have about 1-1.5 thou clearance right now. I will be Tig welding the head for the most part to keep heat in check I figured I would preheat the 4340 rod ends to about 350 F and tig the bottom plate to the bars. If I weld in small sections side to side I hope there want be a lot of distortion. Do you feel more Clearance is needed for the bushings? Right now I can put them back on the line bore and open them up more. I figured I would need to do than anyway after the side plates are welded to the 2" Blocks. I hope the things we find out on this build will help the Blacksmith/Metalsmith that wants to build one like this and do it with min of problems. I'm not saying you need a CNC machine to build a home made hammer, but when they farm out the work they get what works with out tweaking back and forth. I hope to get input from more experienced hammer builders than me. This is a first for me. I'm doing this for a hammer that will replace my busted LG 50# so I can have a hammer for a few more years before I retire for good. So for I have about 1400.00 in this hammer and I have about 99% of the parts most of what I scrounged the rest I bought on sales and supply houses.
HH
CH
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#9 CHPerdue

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Posted 06 February 2012 - 06:46 PM

Hi All
Just a short update. We had a Blizzard here Thursday through Saturday. we had about 10 or so inches of snow along with 35-40 mph winds and I have 4-5 ft drifts all around the shop. I have my anvil here it is a 8.5" 34" round and the steel for the dies. I can't get to the shop to unload it and do some work :( on the hammer or anything else.
I did open the bushings up some more and will be picking up my 2"x32"x20" base as soon as the drive out to shop is clear. My 4 wheeler and the little blade just will not move a large drift very well so that will take a few days. When the temp get above freezing I maybe able to get it pushed over to get to the overhead door.. Stay tuned for more later.
HH
CH
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#10 boilermaker8

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Posted 09 February 2012 - 12:02 AM

Great build, i'ts great to see how others go about building things like this, i've got one question though, is there any advantage to using bronze bushings rather than linear bearings?

#11 dkunkler

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Posted 09 February 2012 - 01:25 AM

I think bronze bushings are going to handle the abuse and shock loads of a hammer much better than similarly sized (or priced) recirculating ball linear bearings.

#12 mike-hr

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Posted 09 February 2012 - 01:41 AM

Howdy. Sorry I can't contribute more to your process yet, you're about 2 weeks ahead of me.. I and a buddy are machining parts to make 2 of these hammers currently. The processes i'm doing different, not better, just different, are concerning the 2 inch round rods. We're using 1inch nc tapped threads on both ends of the round rods. Where the round rods connect with the upper tup plate, we're tapping the plate and using 4140 all thread to make the lower connection. We're thinking the threaded connection will save the rods from linear distortion that weldments would cause. Maybe a dot of TIG weld in 2 places to act as threadlock. We're also thinking of tapping the holes, after the upper tup plate is welded to the upper anvil round, again, to reduce distortion. We're making the lower anvil mass from 1x8 flatbar laminate, similair to KZiturs hammer. We thought up some mods to this also, we'll see if it's worth the trouble. Each hammer uses a full 20' stick of flatbar, cut into 8 pieces, machined both ends, and drilled with an 8-hole pattern to suck the laminate together with 3/4 alloy allthread. We're going to rotate the block into orientation with the pass-thru dies, to facilitate getting close to the dies at a steep angle for making balls, etc. i'll try to post pictures as it progresses, If I can figure out how to post pictures...
my blog www.olenemachine.blogspot.com

#13 CHPerdue

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Posted 11 February 2012 - 12:34 AM

Great build, i'ts great to see how others go about building things like this, i've got one question though, is there any advantage to using bronze bushings rather than linear bearings?

Hi Boilermaker
Well I got a bag of ten bushings for like 89.00 and used 4 that gives me 6 spares. The bearings that I looked at that I thought would work where like 45.00 each and no spares. I know that John Emmerling has one like this with bushings and it is working great. So cost was the big factor. I will be able to pull the head and replace the bronze bushings as needed. I can always go to the bearings if needed later.

Hi Mike
Your approach sound interesting. It will be fun to see how it works out. Screwing everything together maybe a good way minimize having to line bore the blocks after welding. Keep us informed,

I got the drifts cleared yesterday and unloaded the Base Plate which is 1 3/4" hot rolled. and anvil and the 1" spacer that will go under it. I also found a piece of 6"x5" 1045 round for the Tup base plate, I will stick with John's 3.5" so I have an extra 1.5" round plate of 1045 in case I want to raise the bottom die work height. I have spine ready to go on the base plate and I cut the diesfrom a piece of 2.5"x2" H13. I got 4 dies from a 27" long piece I found where I got the 8.5" anvil.Here is a few pixs, enjoy. Tapped the Anvil and 1.5" round today with my hammer and it rang a little I think this going to be much better hammer than my old broke down LG 50.I have a 2.5"x10" hydl cylinder, but thinking I should have went with a 3" for this hammer. I'll also be using double air pilot switchs to control the hammer rather than than a single.

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#14 CHPerdue

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Posted 05 March 2012 - 08:10 PM

Hi All
Thought I would just post a quick update. I have been working on a project to help pay a few of the bills :) The hammer is coming along good.
I finshed the welding on the bottom spacer on the 2" rods today. I will try to tig weld the 3/8" plates to the 2x4x6 blocks with out warping the head to much. Welding this head is a chore for sure every time you add some thing it gets even heaver. :D Pluss welding hot preheated steel is not that fun. The 4340 bars have to be heated to 350 so you have to be careful. I have the holes drilled in the spacer to mount the head to I will drill the plates that bolt to the spacer tomorrow and weld the spacer to spine. I'll get some pix ASAP so you see how it comes together. Just wanted to let you know I have not forgotten about the build posts. If costumers don't get in the way again I should have it mostly done by mid month.(March) :lol:
HH
CH
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#15 Madmike

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Posted 06 March 2012 - 03:59 AM

Can't wait to see more pics :P

#16 John Hartzell

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Posted 06 March 2012 - 09:50 AM

Really looking foward to see it running, really looks and sounds great so far

#17 thorek

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Posted 14 August 2014 - 12:52 AM

Well got the build under way on the hammer that will replace my Old Broke LG50#. I placed the orders for a parts list I got from the Kinyon New style Mark II with the John Emmerling/Kean Randle head style. John said we could use his design, which I think has changed by now. This one will do me great for what I do now so, full steam ahead. I have been Blacksmithing full time since 1991 and for about 10 years before that part time. So I'm not a cherry about this but I always look for a better way so please make comments as you wish.
This friday I got some of the parts so this weekend I got most of the machine work done on the slide blocks, top and bottom pieces for the hamer part. I'm using Bronze bushing like John E. did and the rods are 4340 Ground and polished, they are a Rc26 so you can machine and drill on them.
The Rods are 2" dia the blocks are 2"x4x6 with a bore to fit a 2 1/4 bronze bushing with .001 press fit. If I need to open them up a little I will use a line bore hone. The top plate is 1"x4"x6" and and has 2"x.333 cut outs to accept the slide rods. The top plate has 5/8" holes to bolt the plate to the 5/8-11 threads that where put in the ends.
The Bottom plate has 2" holes all the way through and is 3/4"x4"x6" and will get plug welded so the top die block which is 6"x3.5" round 1045 steel, can be welled to the hammer head bottom plate. I will press in the bushing tomorrow and put most of it together so you can see how I plan to do this. I weighed the parts less the rod to weld it and it will be about 100# so that will be great.
Thanks
CH
attachicon.gifKinronEmmerly hammer2.JPG
attachicon.gifKinyonEmmerly hammer3.JPG
attachicon.gifKinyonEmmerly hammer.JPG

 

Anyone her know where to get the plans to this hammer?

 

Thor



#18 L Smith

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Posted 14 August 2014 - 10:05 AM

You will soon tire from constantly squirting oil while trying to work. Bushings are the right choice for this, but they shouldn't be full length. Two bushes 1/4 the length of your bore would be enough. One on each end with a grease groove .063 wide by half the wall thickness would work for better alignment and lubrication. I did not see a provision for lube. A grease port between the bushings would work . The dead space between two bushings gives a trash trap to keep the rods from being scored in use. If for some reason the bushings need to be removed put an identifying scratch or center punch the bush end and the block. Now they can be replaced back in the same location. Just my take from working with bushings for over twenty years.






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