Kinyon / Emmerling Style Hammer
Posted 30 January 2012 - 07:06 PM
This friday I got some of the parts so this weekend I got most of the machine work done on the slide blocks, top and bottom pieces for the hamer part. I'm using Bronze bushing like John E. did and the rods are 4340 Ground and polished, they are a Rc26 so you can machine and drill on them.
The Rods are 2" dia the blocks are 2"x4x6 with a bore to fit a 2 1/4 bronze bushing with .001 press fit. If I need to open them up a little I will use a line bore hone. The top plate is 1"x4"x6" and and has 2"x.333 cut outs to accept the slide rods. The top plate has 5/8" holes to bolt the plate to the 5/8-11 threads that where put in the ends.
The Bottom plate has 2" holes all the way through and is 3/4"x4"x6" and will get plug welded so the top die block which is 6"x3.5" round 1045 steel, can be welled to the hammer head bottom plate. I will press in the bushing tomorrow and put most of it together so you can see how I plan to do this. I weighed the parts less the rod to weld it and it will be about 100# so that will be great.
KinronEmmerly hammer2.JPG 82.02KB 199 downloads
KinyonEmmerly hammer3.JPG 81.33KB 247 downloads
KinyonEmmerly hammer.JPG 93.24KB 185 downloads
Posted 30 January 2012 - 10:08 PM
Posted 30 January 2012 - 10:49 PM
Posted 30 January 2012 - 11:28 PM
Yea I know but you can't edit a goof on the title. I posted from the computer in my shop. It has about 3 or 4 missing keys. My bad all the way, I need to proof read before posting.
John's name is spelled Emmerling. I saw a video of his hammer, it looks like a nice tight guide system. I think you've got a really good start on your build.
Posted 01 February 2012 - 10:40 PM
Posted 01 February 2012 - 10:53 PM
Posted 02 February 2012 - 08:28 AM
Posted 02 February 2012 - 11:34 AM
Thanks for the input. I don't have a set of plans for this hammer head design, or assembly plans so I'm kinda flying by the seat of my pants here. I have about 1-1.5 thou clearance right now. I will be Tig welding the head for the most part to keep heat in check I figured I would preheat the 4340 rod ends to about 350 F and tig the bottom plate to the bars. If I weld in small sections side to side I hope there want be a lot of distortion. Do you feel more Clearance is needed for the bushings? Right now I can put them back on the line bore and open them up more. I figured I would need to do than anyway after the side plates are welded to the 2" Blocks. I hope the things we find out on this build will help the Blacksmith/Metalsmith that wants to build one like this and do it with min of problems. I'm not saying you need a CNC machine to build a home made hammer, but when they farm out the work they get what works with out tweaking back and forth. I hope to get input from more experienced hammer builders than me. This is a first for me. I'm doing this for a hammer that will replace my busted LG 50# so I can have a hammer for a few more years before I retire for good. So for I have about 1400.00 in this hammer and I have about 99% of the parts most of what I scrounged the rest I bought on sales and supply houses.
Posted 06 February 2012 - 06:46 PM
Just a short update. We had a Blizzard here Thursday through Saturday. we had about 10 or so inches of snow along with 35-40 mph winds and I have 4-5 ft drifts all around the shop. I have my anvil here it is a 8.5" 34" round and the steel for the dies. I can't get to the shop to unload it and do some work on the hammer or anything else.
I did open the bushings up some more and will be picking up my 2"x32"x20" base as soon as the drive out to shop is clear. My 4 wheeler and the little blade just will not move a large drift very well so that will take a few days. When the temp get above freezing I maybe able to get it pushed over to get to the overhead door.. Stay tuned for more later.
Posted 09 February 2012 - 12:02 AM
Posted 09 February 2012 - 01:25 AM
Posted 09 February 2012 - 01:41 AM
Posted 11 February 2012 - 12:34 AM
Great build, i'ts great to see how others go about building things like this, i've got one question though, is there any advantage to using bronze bushings rather than linear bearings?
Well I got a bag of ten bushings for like 89.00 and used 4 that gives me 6 spares. The bearings that I looked at that I thought would work where like 45.00 each and no spares. I know that John Emmerling has one like this with bushings and it is working great. So cost was the big factor. I will be able to pull the head and replace the bronze bushings as needed. I can always go to the bearings if needed later.
Your approach sound interesting. It will be fun to see how it works out. Screwing everything together maybe a good way minimize having to line bore the blocks after welding. Keep us informed,
I got the drifts cleared yesterday and unloaded the Base Plate which is 1 3/4" hot rolled. and anvil and the 1" spacer that will go under it. I also found a piece of 6"x5" 1045 round for the Tup base plate, I will stick with John's 3.5" so I have an extra 1.5" round plate of 1045 in case I want to raise the bottom die work height. I have spine ready to go on the base plate and I cut the diesfrom a piece of 2.5"x2" H13. I got 4 dies from a 27" long piece I found where I got the 8.5" anvil.Here is a few pixs, enjoy. Tapped the Anvil and 1.5" round today with my hammer and it rang a little I think this going to be much better hammer than my old broke down LG 50.I have a 2.5"x10" hydl cylinder, but thinking I should have went with a 3" for this hammer. I'll also be using double air pilot switchs to control the hammer rather than than a single.
Posted 05 March 2012 - 08:10 PM
Thought I would just post a quick update. I have been working on a project to help pay a few of the bills The hammer is coming along good.
I finshed the welding on the bottom spacer on the 2" rods today. I will try to tig weld the 3/8" plates to the 2x4x6 blocks with out warping the head to much. Welding this head is a chore for sure every time you add some thing it gets even heaver. Pluss welding hot preheated steel is not that fun. The 4340 bars have to be heated to 350 so you have to be careful. I have the holes drilled in the spacer to mount the head to I will drill the plates that bolt to the spacer tomorrow and weld the spacer to spine. I'll get some pix ASAP so you see how it comes together. Just wanted to let you know I have not forgotten about the build posts. If costumers don't get in the way again I should have it mostly done by mid month.(March)
Posted 06 March 2012 - 09:50 AM
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