John Martin Posted February 2, 2009 Share Posted February 2, 2009 (edited) Today quentin and I took some time, bought some angle iron, and decided to make an anvil stand like the one Hofi uses. Not quite done yet, have to finished welding the U pieces on the side by the anvil, and weld U brackets to keep the hardie tools in place. Stand is lightweight but incredibly strong, stand is probably 50lb, with 124lb wilkinson. Still have to grind and wire brush and then paint it black, same thing with anvil as well. Also need to add a tong/hammer rack along the side. The wood stand is what I used to have. I really like this design because you can get up close and personal with the anvil, or what you're working on. I still need to finish the point on the anvil as well. I also need to grind the top of the stand to make it look real nice, cut it out with my welder. Edited February 2, 2009 by m_brothers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Finnr Posted February 2, 2009 Share Posted February 2, 2009 Looking good there John! Finnr Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Martin Posted February 2, 2009 Author Share Posted February 2, 2009 Thanks art, it works really well, need to think of something to do with the bottom of the anvil though, might order some of that Sika glue...the bottom of the anvil isnt very flat, might have to grind it, or use the sika glue. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jimbob Posted February 2, 2009 Share Posted February 2, 2009 read an article the other day on using a couple pieces shingle under the anvil ...they conform to the uneven bottom and as and added bonus cut down on the noise. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
otto Posted February 2, 2009 Share Posted February 2, 2009 I have a stand like that and put a 1/4" rubber sheet then chained it down to the baseplate easier than grinding on your anvil. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted February 2, 2009 Share Posted February 2, 2009 Looking good John. I guess I'm lucky, both my working anvils have reasonably even bases so rocking is no problem. I can think of a few ways to correct the problem without grinding but grinding may be the simplest and best method. Just make sure you're hitting the high spots. Rub the frame with chalk, set the anvil on it, then take it out, flip it over and grind off the chalk smudges. Repeat till it's solid. No need to grind it till the surfaces match, just till it's solid. Another method would be to drive in steel wedges from below till it's solid, then tack weld the wedges in place. Do you have shop colors? Mine are green and gold so I paint my tools and equipment green with gold highlights, details, pinstriping, etc. Black is nice but pretty common, if you have your own colors you can make yourself stand out in a crowd. Frosty Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hammerkid Posted February 2, 2009 Share Posted February 2, 2009 Looking good John, my mousehole base& feet aint the flatest so I made a wedge to slide under one of the feet. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
unkle spike Posted February 2, 2009 Share Posted February 2, 2009 The foam rubber that you get for non slip in toolbox drawers works great as long as the gap isn't TOO big.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Glenn Posted February 2, 2009 Share Posted February 2, 2009 Frosty, may I respectfully suggest that if the anvil stand is less than square, level, flat, etc, you will then grind the anvil base to MATCH that anvil stand and in only one orientation. Grinding the base of an anvil flat should be done on a FLAT surface and not the anvil stand. This way the base is flat. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Martin Posted February 3, 2009 Author Share Posted February 3, 2009 The stand is perfectly level, that part took a long time, lots of checking with a level and grinding of the feet a little bit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
philip in china Posted February 3, 2009 Share Posted February 3, 2009 One thing I understand Hofi does with his anvil is to have 2 small holes cast in the base. Then the Hofi stand has 2 locating studs so the anvil never slips although there is nothing to foul the edge of the anvil. So simple, so obvious, so Hofi! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hofi Posted February 4, 2009 Share Posted February 4, 2009 John (m-brother) you fabricated the stand with the materials you had in hand and it is ok but I will suggest to do some changes. 1) to cut the base plate on the sides along the lines of the anvil this will allow you to go all the way down to the floor. 2) the support for the legs the way you did will collide with you legs. I think and I did it that the ''cross'' system will be more comfortable. connect the two front legs and then weld one cross member to the third leg by this the legs support will not disturb you at all. I attached photo's and explain more detailed the way I do it. 004-005 two arrangements. one with a tray for the tools at forging and the other without 006 the base plat 1-3/4'' thick 007 the weld of the legs. Rhs 4''x2'' 1/4'' thick wall. If the plat is heavy duty and the legs too a) it supports better the anvil. you do not need the legs supporting or cross member .and c) which is very important the anvil base will work like a ''spring'' reacting to the hammer blows 008 one can see the pattern of the anvil base, place for the water can and upsetting shelf 009 the anvil corner support to prevent the anvil from moving 010 the arrangement of the ''only'' tools that I attach to the anvil the once that i use mostly there is much more to say about this arrangement but it is already too long with lots of friendship and admiration John HOFI Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Martin Posted February 4, 2009 Author Share Posted February 4, 2009 (edited) Mr. Hofi, not trying to one up you, but don't the legs bend if you do not have the cross support??? I was thinking after reading your post, that one could leave the hardy weld as is, but then weld the brackets to the front leg from underneath the baseplate. It would not get in your way, and it would still provide the support need. And I will be grinding the plate to fit the anvil. EDIT: but on the other hand, thank-you very much for the compliment, and thank-you for talking the time to explain it to me. EDIT: Also, could you please explain or show photos of how you make the anvil tool tray please? Edited February 4, 2009 by m_brothers Forgot to say thank-you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hofi Posted February 4, 2009 Share Posted February 4, 2009 John As for your question I answered it on section 007 my self I NEVER grind the base of the anvil to fit the base plate, to my opinion it is lots of work and a waste of time. IN my smithy and I have 14 anvils on the steel three legged base. ALL of them are having a layer of ''sikaflex 11 fc'' if you give enough thick layer it will take the difference between the anvil and the base and more over it will silence the anvil completely you can do it in two different ways : 1 to glue the anvil with the sika and the you will not be able to separate 2 to smear some oil on the base or the anvil an then it will do the ''job'' but they will not glue together HOFI Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom Lumpkins Posted February 4, 2009 Share Posted February 4, 2009 LOOKS GOOD John.. Thanks for sharing with us.. And thanks to you as well, Mr Hofi.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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